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The engine is out of the car ('72) for rebuild and I'd like to do electrical testing of components in the meantime. What can I use for power and to what wires do I connect it to mimic the system when there is an alternator and starter in place? (Would it be best to wire up the starter and alternator even though they're not mounted?)
Thanks for your help.
Owen
Last edited by barkingrats; Apr 9, 2020 at 01:22 PM.
You use the car battery for power and you need to connect the wires together that normally attach to the large stud on the starter solenoid, if you have the starter connect it. Plug in the alternator to its wire harness.
Or even a 25 buck riding mower battery. Tape up the connection where starter was real good. Any battery will arc weld if positive cable hits the frame. Also look at where negative cable attaches to frame right under the battery box.
Be careful of any other dangling wires in the engine compartment. You may cause more problems than you think you have now.
Once the smoke gets out of the wires, it's a problem.
All,
I suppose a cheap battery is probably the best way to go - the car won't be on the road for at least a year, so an expensive battery won't go to waste with this idea. Out of curiosity, I examined the old battery... 1988! Anyone want to buy a vintage Monkey Wards side-terminal Group 75 battery?
All,
I suppose a cheap battery is probably the best way to go - the car won't be on the road for at least a year, so an expensive battery won't go to waste with this idea. Out of curiosity, I examined the old battery... 1988! Anyone want to buy a vintage Monkey Wards side-terminal Group 75 battery?
Batteries have a space at the bottom for residue as the battery physically wears down. When the residue piles up and reaches the bottom of the plates, it shorts out and is done. Charging a battery that old "could" explode.
5 years is about max for any battery. Charge state and climate dictates useful life. Notice that they always fail when it's really hot or really cold?