When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 80 vette and I want to replace the standard ignition with a push button and few toggle switches, one hidden for theft protection. I have read a lot of threads and articles.
Has anyone done this on an 80 does anyone have any schematics? Can I remove the locking switch or do I need to keep that and use the key along with the push button (would rather not). Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
If you are going to delete the key, I recommend you completely gut the column lock mechanism and don’t just force it into the unlock position (which is what some of the aftermarket push start kits say to do)
3 high current relays are all you need if you are using 2 toggles and a push button. I use a 4th relay for my security lockout. How familiar are you with standard automotive relays?
yep, just use the toggles and the push button to trigger the coils on your relays. You could just unplug the ignition harness and use some male spades to plug your relay harness into that.
yep, just use the toggles and the push button to trigger the coils on your relays. You could just unplug the ignition harness and use some male spades to plug your relay harness into that.
Quick I saw one guy do this and he only used one relay. Your saying use a relay at every switch?
Quick I saw one guy do this and he only used one relay. Your saying use a relay at every switch?
most of the switches I found that looked good were not rated for the current required (plus some for safety margin). This also allows you to keep your heavy gauge wires short and run the thinner trigger wires to wherever you want to put the switches
most of the switches I found that looked good were not rated for the current required (plus some for safety margin). This also allows you to keep your heavy gauge wires short and run the thinner trigger wires to wherever you want to put the switches
That makes perfect sense and I really want to do things the correct way. I got everything ordered I am going to draw up a schematic before start to make sure I understand the system before I start. Should I have an in-line fuse on the power to the battery also?
That makes perfect sense and I really want to do things the correct way. I got everything ordered I am going to draw up a schematic before start to make sure I understand the system before I start. Should I have an in-line fuse on the power to the battery also?
I am using a cole hersee 24059 constant duty solenoid/relay to power a 5 fuse aux fuse block and to power my fuel pump circuit through a circuit breaker. Also use another 24059 for my radiator fan circuit with a circuit breaker.
Quick question with the battery in the back of the car but also having to go to the starter what do you think is the best location for the relays inside the car or in the engine compartment?
I am probably going to create a simple relay panel to organize it all.
Quick question with the battery in the back of the car but also having to go to the starter what do you think is the best location for the relays inside the car or in the engine compartment?
I am probably going to create a simple relay panel to organize it all.
every wire you need is already at the ignition switch connector right at the bottom of the steering column. No need to go to the battery or the starter.
I built my own harness but I put my ignition/accessory/start relays underneath the console.
Ok excellent and thanks for the pic cause that is exactly what I was wanting to do. There is a lot of misleading info out there and I appreciate your time with answering my questions!
Quick question with the battery in the back of the car but also having to go to the starter what do you think is the best location for the relays inside the car or in the engine compartment?
I am probably going to create a simple relay panel to organize it all.
Yep - like Chris 427 said- starter is directly connected to the battery anyway...
I put my relay/fuses near what I was trying to control- no need to go outside the car.
Here's a neat product- Modular fuse & relay- I'm up to about 20+ in my car!!! I used three of them to replace my fusebox...and moved it to the kickpanel to make fuse replacement possible with out being a gymnast!!!
Here's a neat tool that will keep you from going insane- shrink tube labeler-
Can someone help me troubleshoot this install, attached schematic is how I have it hooked up. When I hook the battery back up all it does is buzz. What am I misunderstanding. Should one of the bat reds go to one of the ign’s?
You need 3 40A relays
ideally you would have a toggle for your acc stuff separate from the ignition coil. When you crank the car with the original ignition switch it kills power to the acc circuit when you are in the start position. I flip the ignition toggle, start the car, and then flip the acc switch.
the relays will have a diagram on the bottom with those numbers. 85 and 86 are interchangeable on most relays so don’t worry if yours are swapped from my diagram. I ran my relay setup without fly back diodes in place with no note able ill effects, but it’s recommended for larger current switching. When I rewired my car I put them in.