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Black is lowest tension
Silver is middle
Gold is highest tension not sure why I dont see them in your picture, see link below. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...SAAEgJbmPD_BwE
Try a combination of black and silver.
The bronze bushing is to replace the stock nylon bushing advance stop. The distributor has to be removed and disassembled to install.
The nylon bushing may or may not be still there.
Your total mechanical advance should be 36 degrees at about 2,800 to 3000 rpm.
Not sure what you mean by later, the stock springs are much stiffer and dont permit full advance at the rpm numbers above.
Are you using a dial back timing light to set maximum advance?
This is that exact kit. It appears grey has replaced gold.
I have some detonation issues and I'm trying to delay advance a bit. I switched out the vacuum advance from the B28 to B26 as I'm trying to limit the range and degrees in which vacuum advance and centrifugal advance overlap.
I measured the spring tension of a few advance spring and cam kits during the process of setting my ignition advance. In the Mr. Gasket 928 kit the silver and black springs were essentially identical, 56oz and 57oz, respectively. The gold spring was 72oz.
If you are looking for a heavier spring, the Mr.Gasket 929 kit gold spring is the next highest I found at 105oz. In the same 929 kit the black was 23oz and the silver was 115oz.
The next lighter springs I found were the gold springs in both the the Spectre and Jegs kits at 34oz. My final configuration was the Moroso kit advance springs and cam, using the lightest two Moroso springs in the kit ('bronze', 30oz pull tension)
I measured the spring tension of a few advance spring and cam kits during the process of setting my ignition advance. In the Mr. Gasket 928 kit the silver and black springs were essentially identical, 56oz and 57oz, respectively. The gold spring was 72oz.
If you are looking for a heavier spring, the Mr.Gasket 929 kit gold spring is the next highest I found at 105oz. In the same 929 kit the black was 23oz and the silver was 115oz.
The next lighter springs I found were the gold springs in both the the Spectre and Jegs kits at 34oz. My final configuration was the Moroso kit advance springs and cam, using the lightest two Moroso springs in the kit ('bronze', 30oz pull tension)
Thanks Revit - by chance have you seen these grey springs?
If the timing change looses to much power or don’t work try some VP Racing Octanium octane booster , this stuff works and you might only need a few ounces at fill up , local stores like Autozone and O’Reilly’s have it in stock https://www.jegs.com/i/VP+Racing+Fue...CABEgInl_D_BwE
If the timing change looses to much power or don’t work try some VP Racing Octanium octane booster , this stuff works and you might only need a few ounces at fill up , local stores like Autozone and O’Reilly’s have it in stock https://www.jegs.com/i/VP+Racing+Fue...CABEgInl_D_BwE
This should just push it up the RPM band a bit. If not I'll try Lars' vacuum advance limiter.
Forget trying to put a bandage on. Your real problem is your too small of duration cam for the rest of your engine build.
You have exceeded 8.3 or 8.4 Dynamic Compression Ratio.
When I was younger and I built my first 383 and didn't want to go overboard with the cam lobes. So I installed a 232/238@ .050 along with aluminum heads and 10.7 or so static compression ratio. I had serious rattle/ pinging going down the road. I tried every bandage. The fix was to install a new cam with more duration
Forget trying to put a bandage on. Your real problem is your too small of duration cam for the rest of your engine build.
You have exceeded 8.3 or 8.4 Dynamic Compression Ratio.
When I was younger and I built my first 383 and didn't want to go overboard with the cam lobes. So I installed a 232/238@ .050 along with aluminum heads and 10.7 or so static compression ratio. I had serious rattle/ pinging going down the road. I tried every bandage. The fix was to install a new cam with more duration
Well my detonation issues are very minor and only under a specific condition. So a different vacuum advance and springs I'd say are a smart fix vs. a cam replacement.
Well my detonation issues are very minor and only under a specific condition. So a different vacuum advance and springs I'd say are a smart fix vs. a cam replacement.
Too much DCR shows up at lighter throttle out cruising at highway speeds. I tried retarding timing and the crane came adjustable vacuum can. Octane boosters.... detonation even when you can't hear it is very hard on the engine.
Too much DCR shows up at lighter throttle out cruising at highway speeds. I tried retarding timing and the crane came adjustable vacuum can. Octane boosters.... detonation even when you can't hear it is very hard on the engine.
You can even try advancing the cam 2 or 4degrees
What are your cam specs @ .050 and your C/R
I believe he has the L46 cam advanced 4 degrees. He should run it straight up to reduce DCR.
Do not fall into the DCR trap applying it on a GM cam. The recomended DCR will not work on a GM slow ramp cam. The recomendations are from empirical evidence using typical aftermarket cams.
George - We have another thread on this particular engine. Bottom line - The C/R is not the issue but quench is bad and cam is too far advanced.
Went with the grey springs and B26 vacuum advance. Centrifugal advance is 36° all in at 3500 RPM. Idle is excellent and throttle very responsive and no more detonation at any performance point. Very snappy motor off the line, I'm sure I've lost much off the top, but that's fine, 0-4000 is where I'll live 99% of the time.
Last edited by LeMans Pete; Apr 20, 2020 at 09:15 PM.