When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am replacing #4 mounts on my 70 convertible. Fiberglass is in good shape but I can tell that that when I refasten the reinforcement plate that there will be some gaps between the plate and the fiberglass. I’ve gathered from a few threads that you are supposed to put some sort of adhesive to take up the gaps. Someone also mentioned fiberglass itself which I am not clear on. Can anyone describe what needs to be done here? Or do you just rivet or bolt them up?
bolt them on. riveting is for assembly lines. same as the sheet metal cage on that square nut. a friend with a socket laying in the "trunk" is the way to go. gap after attaching? how big a gap? what do the door gaps look like? on a vert, the rear body will flex away from top of door as it drops. so you want the body where the door gap is best. then shim it with shims or steel fender washers.
post pics before you attach anything. have the parts lined up and let's see what u got.
Last edited by derekderek; May 17, 2020 at 11:29 AM.
Thanks for the response. Here is a pic of the mount plate that I have. The gap I’m talking about is when you push the plate up in there it rocks a little bit. I am glad to hear you say to bolted back up as I would prefer to do it that way. Just seems easier and I was leaning towards that either way. I got this reinforcement plate off a donor car and there was a bunch of adhesive between it and the a mount area. I also came across people in other threads talking about either adhesive or fiberglass and I was guessing maybe that makes it so it doesn’t rock and sits flush. So my question is are you supposed to use adhesive inside the cup area before you put it up there?
I'm in the middle of this project as well.
I've seen nothing about adhesive or fiberglass to fill the gaps.
There is a fat spacer below that bracket that rests on the frame bracket, as well as some washers and shims for best fit based on your body.
The only mention I've seen of any "schmutz" type substance, was the suggestion to apply some sealant caulk, I'm thinking around the hole on the top of your reinforcement cup bracket, to help seal out water intrusion getting into the inside hardware and corroding (again).
I'll plan on that as I go forward.
I wish I had that much clearance around the body cup portion of the mount. I need to rivet/screw all sides of the reinforcement to the body, but lack enough clearance, especially at the rear and inner sides.
Any suggestions for the "partial" body lift method?
I put some panelbond into the bottom of mine to take up the gap when I installed it. Mainly since I couldn't put all the rivets in the back side (did it with the body on so that flange had to be removed) so there isn't as much support as it would have been in riveted on all sides https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...oval-tool.html
M
OK that is really helpful. I guess maybe people did it because of not being able to lock down all the fasteners. I wish I can suggest how to get more clearance but the reason I have so much is because it’s off the frame on a body dolly right now. I should be able to get fasteners on three sides. I am planning on using stainless 10 -24 machine screws with nylon lock nuts. I like the idea of sealing that hole up to prevent rust on the topside so maybe I’ll do that.
If I could have gotten the rivets in the back flange I never would have added the panelbond. But there was no plan then (or now) for actually removing the body so I went this way instead
Yeah I can’t get to the back butted up against the wheel well. I figured a total of 6 in the other three sides should be good enough. I actually tried 1/4 20 but they were too big for the plates. I figured 10-24 so I didn’t have to open up he holes.