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Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
That's not a "Scoggin Dickey" engine, that's a genuine GM crate engine! In previous posts, it's been said that this is a very good engine, but the ZZ4 is a great engine...
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
I thought the same thing, I have a set of Vortec heads a new Comp Cam, Vortec intake, new timing set, basically everything to build up a motor from the short block up. I never could find a reasonably priced Short block that I trusted to stay together. I ended up paying the extra and buying a ZZ4. I still have all the Vortec parts, if I don't sell them soon I'll probably start looking for another short block and build up another engine.
If you buy that 350/330 then you'll still have to spend about $1000 for all the incidentals you need to do the swap. Intake, headers, fuel pump, water pump, flywheel/flexplate belts and hoses and probably some stuff I have forgotten. Engine swaps aren't cheap, because you'll get in there and decide that you don't want to bolt all that nasty old crap back on your new engine and end up replacing it.
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
I recently bought this GMPP engine from Scoggins. It is currently being installed along with a Bowtie 700R4. It should be road worthy in about 2 weeks and I'll let you know. I think after all is said and done the cost will be a lot lower than a ZZ4 and this car is for my "new driver" son so 330 HP should be plenty.
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
Looks good to me. Same block as the ZZ4. I am going to run 68CC heads, otherwise I'd consider the ZZ4 long block that they sell.
The nice thing about that engine is that the block is designed for either flat tappet or roller lifters, so you can upgrade to a new cam on the cheap. Plus, it's got the more reliable(less prone to leaking) rear main seal. It's definitely a good start, and has tons of potential! I wish I could install it in Kalifornia, but ... alas. If you've got parts for the 2-piece rear main, you'll have to get a new flywheel/flexplate and whatnot.
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
Captain_Kaboom...
I the price I saw on that engine was about $2100. Maybe take the time and check out ARU's engines. GransSportC3 runs one of their racing engines and a couple of us also just bought high performance long blocks(420-480HP) from them. They advertise a 350/350HP 4-bolt main long engine with nice aftermarket parts in it for $1495(+ $150 core charge). Here's a link to check out: http://www.maxhorsepower.com/engine.htm
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (bgrice)
Man, that looks pretty good. Thanks for the tip!
What exactly does a long block come with?
What else will I -really- have to swap out?
Thanks! That looks like a better deal than what I had found. I'm not horsepower crazy or anything, I just want a good semi-daily driver.
..and not to be pushed around by ricers.
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
A friend of mine just bought that same engine for his 69 chevy pickup. Went to one of the local GM dealers and they matched the price. They even had it on the shelf in stock.
He is currently going through the "Now that the engine is new, I need a new......." :lol: :lol:
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (DaBo)
I've found some new crates at the local dealers as well. But, I've heard a couple people mention that they weren't great quality, and rated at only ~180hp. If I am going to do this, I think I want to at least get some hp/tq gains out of it!
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Captain_Kaboom)
Man, that looks pretty good. Thanks for the tip!
What exactly does a long block come with?
What else will I -really- have to swap out?
Thanks! That looks like a better deal than what I had found. I'm not horsepower crazy or anything, I just want a good semi-daily driver.
..and not to be pushed around by ricers.
Actually, I think the link gave better information as to what you might be getting(Lunati/Crane Cam, TRW Pistons, LT-1 Rods, etc). I would suggest you contact both to make sure it is what you are looking for.
A *long block* by the way is determined by the seller. All will include the bottom end of the engine(block, crank, bearings, rods, pistons, cam & timing chain/cover) and the completed heads(including pushods & lifters). Some include also the basics like oil pump, oil pan, valve covers, etc. And a crate motor should replace your engine without any modifications. Bolt your stuff up and go.
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (Smokehouse69)
IEngine swaps aren't cheap, because you'll get in there and decide that you don't want to bolt all that nasty old crap back on your new engine and end up replacing it.
True dat!
Not only is there the nasty old crap that has to be replaced, but there is the engine compartment that has to be repainted, and the transmission that has to be gone over, and the leaky rear end, and the U-joints, and the trailing arm bushings, and the control arm bushings, and the shocks, oh hell, might as well replace the springs too since it's disassembled this far... have I forgotten anything? :D
Re: How about this for a replacement engine? (zymurgist)
If you use the GM Crate engine, there are several items which are different from your engine, and will need replacement. A partial list is:
Flywheel/Flexplate- The newer engine has a different crank bolt pattern.
Intake Manifold- You need one compatible with Vortec bolt pattern.
The engine may not have a mech Fuel Pump provision. You may have to
use an electric pump.
One thing to consider is the warranty GM gives on the crate engines. Others will not normally have as good coverage on rebuilds.
Also remember that the HP numbers quoted are "Gross" HP and will need to be derated by abut 15% to get the "Net" installed HP. 330HP Gross will provide about 280 HP installed in the car, through mufflers, etc. It takes slightly over 350 HP gross to get 300 HP installed.