When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For guys running Steeroids setups, how much play do you have in your double u-joint? (the ujoint between the steering column and intermediate shaft). My Steeroids is about 13yrs old and I think my u-joint is worn. It looks like there's excess play, but where they're about $230 to replace, I want to make sure it's not "normal" play. I posted a video of what I'm looking at below, so if guys with the same setup can compare it to their's and let me know that'd be a huge help!
I'm trying to correct some play in the center of the steering. I've replaced all tie rod ends, the intermediate shaft, support bearing, and the factory lower steering column bearing.
You definitely have more play there than I do but it looks to me like it’s in the support bearing, or more specifically between the bearing and the shaft.
Mines not a steeriods- but is sort of a homebrew - manual Flaming River R&P with a Nissan electric power steering motor.
I went with three single joints- rather than a double and a single. I also solidly bolted a bearing for the steering column to the frame- as it's one of this things I don't want to come loose!!!
I also used this configuration to minimize and mod to the frame/motor mount.
You definitely have more play there than I do but it looks to me like it’s in the support bearing, or more specifically between the bearing and the shaft.
That was exactly what I initially thought the problem was, which I even had Speed direct confirm by video of the original shaft and support bearing. They told me there was too much play there, and that the shaft and bearing should turn as one, not doing what mine is where the shaft is turning inside the bearing. So, I ordered a new shaft and bearing but it fits and performs the exact same way. I emailed them this video earlier today before making the post. I'm waiting to hear back. They've been helpful so far, but I really want to get this squared away. Having the dead spot in the center makes the car feel unsure. Once you steer through that it's fine, but the initial turn in/fine adjustments are very loose. According to Speed direct that shaft should just barely fit into the support bearing, you should have to sand it a little to make it just fit it. The new one they sent me dropped right in and through like the old one 👎🏼
Check your phasing from section 12b of the manual. http://www.speeddirect.com/wp-conten...structions.pdf
I had the same problem as mine was out of phase.
I can't tell if its correct in your video. But you should have little to no play at all.
Good luck.
Check your phasing from section 12b of the manual. http://www.speeddirect.com/wp-conten...structions.pdf
I had the same problem as mine was out of phase.
I can't tell if its correct in your video. But you should have little to no play at all.
Good luck.
That was exactly what I initially thought the problem was, which I even had Speed direct confirm by video of the original shaft and support bearing. They told me there was too much play there, and that the shaft and bearing should turn as one, not doing what mine is where the shaft is turning inside the bearing. So, I ordered a new shaft and bearing but it fits and performs the exact same way. I emailed them this video earlier today before making the post. I'm waiting to hear back. They've been helpful so far, but I really want to get this squared away. Having the dead spot in the center makes the car feel unsure. Once you steer through that it's fine, but the initial turn in/fine adjustments are very loose. According to Speed direct that shaft should just barely fit into the support bearing, you should have to sand it a little to make it just fit it. The new one they sent me dropped right in and through like the old one 👎🏼
I bought a new stainless steel intermediate shaft direct from Borgeson and a new chrome-moly support bearing from QS Components in Muncie, Indiana. The clearance between the shaft and bearing ID was very close; less than 0.001. I installed a second support bearing on my steeroids intermediate shaft and now the whole system is much more rigid.
John
Two observations from your video. I know you said you have new column bearings but it looks like the steering shaft has play at the lower bearing. There cannot be any looseness there. Also the u-joint play appears as side to side play in the cross shaft. Maybe tap the ujoint caps in a little bit?
I bought a new stainless steel intermediate shaft direct from Borgeson and a new chrome-moly support bearing from QS Components in Muncie, Indiana. The clearance between the shaft and bearing ID was very close; less than 0.001. I installed a second support bearing on my steeroids intermediate shaft and now the whole system is much more rigid.
John
Good to know, I didn't realize I could buy the joints directly from them. I just spent some time looking at their site. I could get all new joints (DD-3/4" spline single for the pinion to shaft, and 3/4" spline-1" spline double for shaft to column), plus a new 3/4" spline shaft, for around $320. That shaft SHOULD work with the new support bearing I got from Speed direct, and being a full round shaft vs DD, should fit tighter in the bearing.
For $300 it may be worth it, at that point everything but the rack itself would be new and hopefully no more play. For the rack, it's there anything special they do or is it just a reman'd grand am rack? If it is, I could get one through the shop I work at real cheap, and then start 100% fresh.
Two observations from your video. I know you said you have new column bearings but it looks like the steering shaft has play at the lower bearing. There cannot be any looseness there. Also the u-joint play appears as side to side play in the cross shaft. Maybe tap the ujoint caps in a little bit?
Tom
I just put the lower bearing in 2wks ago. It came already pressed in the plastic retainer.
That's a good idea with the u joints. I'll try that if I don't replace it.
That was exactly what I initially thought the problem was, which I even had Speed direct confirm by video of the original shaft and support bearing. They told me there was too much play there, and that the shaft and bearing should turn as one, not doing what mine is where the shaft is turning inside the bearing. So, I ordered a new shaft and bearing but it fits and performs the exact same way. I emailed them this video earlier today before making the post. I'm waiting to hear back. They've been helpful so far, but I really want to get this squared away. Having the dead spot in the center makes the car feel unsure. Once you steer through that it's fine, but the initial turn in/fine adjustments are very loose. According to Speed direct that shaft should just barely fit into the support bearing, you should have to sand it a little to make it just fit it. The new one they sent me dropped right in and through like the old one 👎🏼
If you bought both a new shaft and a new bearing, one would think they would have tried the shaft in the bearing before shipping it to you. I found their customer support to be pretty good, too, but they dropped the ball on this one.
If you bought both a new shaft and a new bearing, one would think they would have tried the shaft in the bearing before shipping it to you. I found their customer support to be pretty good, too, but they dropped the ball on this one.
Funny thing is I actually asked him that when ordering. I specifically asked if the shaft would be test fit to the bearing where the tolerance is supposed to be so close, and he said he couldn't guarantee it. From talking to him, it sounds like they basically source parts from different suppliers, so they may not even have ever touched them. A few weeks before I ordered two new outer tie rod pins. They came and looked completely different. They both had the same part number and work, but I asked out of curiosity and was told they basically get the stuff from whoever they can at the time, which to me leads to inconsistency.
Steeroids double u-joint
