Hey Guys, I'm about at my whits end here. I recently replaced my Battery cables and also installed a reman and OEM correct satarter in my 69 L-46. After getting the reman starter installed I bumped the key to start position and the starter turns the engine like it should. Switch the key off and the starter keeps running! pull the key out, it keeps running. I reached back and pull the battery disconnect. Luckily the engine did not start as there was no fuel to the carb. I checked all the electrical works fine. I put the old starter back in, works fine. I took the reman starter to a rebuild shop to have it tested under a load and he said it tested just fine. I got correct OEM bolts with the knurl as There were were regular bolts First try starter switched off after turning the key back second try it kept running again. I put in a very thin shim maybe a 32nd of an inch. The starter switched on and off with the key twice then on the third try kept running again. Can someone tell me If I am correct in thinking that the pinion is hanging up on the ring gear causing the solenoid to remain engaged? Would shimming the starter down with a thicker shim help this? Or shimming the starter back away from the flywheel be correct. Any insight here would certainly be appreciated. I have pics of both starters. The nose housings are different but the new one is correct for the car and bolts into the same holes. What is happening here?

old starter on top.

 

If you have a battery charger connect the positive cable to the top solenoid terminal and the ground to the case then jumper from the top battery cable to the 'S' terminal.
See if the starter goes on and off as you connect and disconnect at the 'S' terminal.

 

Hi Peterbuilt, You are up late or early maybe. Thanks for replying either way. So I effectively performed this same test I think by running a small jumper from the s terminal to the battery. I had to force the clutch in with a length of 2x4 to bypass the clutch switch. when I touch the wire on the s terminal to the pos post the starter engages and keeps running until I pull the battery disconnect. When I reconnect the disconnect it is fine until I touch the s terminal to power again.

 

Sounds like a bad solenoid. If you disconnect the S wire (believe its Purple) and you turn the key to start you should get 12 ish volts on Purple wire and when you release the key, the voltage should go to zero. If this is the case, your "new" solenoid is bad.
you probably need to silicate a helper for this.

 

WAG
Solenoid spring weak.

 

You answered your own question......you put the old one in and it works fine. What was the reason you got a new/rebuild? Your rebuild probably has a weak spring on the bendix combined with some slight flywheel hang.....
Is this an original car? The reason I ask is that 25 lb. dinosaur starters are a thing of the past unless you have to have it. Like headers, radial tires, gas shocks or other components that make a classic car run and perform better, they can be removed later on....will not effect value.
If you can use a mini-starter, I recommend the CVR 5323R.......you will never have to put another starter on it.....about 18lbs. lighter, more room underneath, and spins the engine like there is no plugs in it.

Jebby

 

Is there any way your power cable is close to the wires on the S terminal? I would separate the wires as for as possible to make sure there is no possibility the two wires touching when the starter engages..

When the starter hangs up, tap the starter and solenoid with the handle end of a heavy hammer. This may free the solenoid if it is hung up and confirm your wiring is good.

I would think you can tell how tightly the gear is stuck in the flywheel by taking off the inspection plate and removing the power cable from the starter. Activate the solenoid with a jumper from the power cable to the S terminal. This will insert the Bendix but the starter won't spin. If the bendix stays in, try pushing it out. Is it hard or easy to push out?

I don't know this for sure, but I would think there is enough play in the solenoid that it would disengage when the key is released even if the Bendix hung up. There is a spring in the solenoid that starts the release. I would suspect this is missing or damaged in yours.

 

Thanks everyone for your insight. I got this rebuild as it is date and model correct. I decided to install it as I was having some heat soak issues with the one on the car. That is why I installed the new cables which were most likely causing my original issues. I'm really starting to suspect the bendex spring is not doing its job. I guess I will take it out once more remove the inspection plate reinstall it and check the gear clearance just to be through. Funny that it will work correctly on the first try or two then keep running after that. I did check to make sure the S. terminal was clear of any others already, and it lights a test light on and off with the key. OK newly inspired now I will go digging. Thanks again all.

 

spring and any starte- alternator part you might need.
https://www.aspwholesale.com/starter...er-p16464.html

https://www.aspwholesale.com/images/...s/DR-SD300.jpg

 

OK I pulled the starter. removed the inspection plate, bypassed the clutch safety, and triggered the solenoid S terminal with a jumper. The gear came out with an audible click. when I removed the jumper heard another click. When I got back under the car and looked the bendex gear was still out and stuck in the flywheel ring gear some. When I tapped the side of the solenoid the gear as 2mnyvets suggested the gear retracted a little with each tap but came completely clear after only two or three taps. I'm thinking it would indicate that 51 cent spring as shown in your link Jackson. These pics show how the bendex gear is not fully retracting. It hangs up with only about 1/8th inch still in contact with the ring gear. By tapping the soleniod It pops back in. I tried prying it back with a small dental pick it would not go. When I tapped the soleniod two or three times it went a little with each tap then retracted fully when it cleared the ring gear. It seems it is hanging on the ring gear a little but a good spring should be able to overcome this right??

bendex gear engaged with S terminal energized

after s terminal disconnected.

 

Those old OE heavy starters (style MT10) often Require a starter shim or two in order to get proper gear clearance ...
... the modern (since 90s) light OE permanent magnet gear reduction starters seldom need any shim ...
.... several will retrofit C3 ... some are stupid inexpensive ... as reliable if not more so than MT10.

a fifty-cent spring sre ain't gonna hurt but do Not expect it so solve teeth-clearance issues. Local NAPA should have starter shims on-hand.

 

Thanks Jackson, trying to maker her OEM. still not sure if I have a clearance problem or a week spring here. could try shimming a little more before having a new solenoid installed. Itseems like adding shims will move the starter gear closer in on the flywheel tho. easy enough to try tho.

 

IIRC the wire from a small paperclip was the correct clearance.....

 

If you can find the correct brown cap solenoid from a motor home, your golden. The service bulletin is out there.

 

Alright, I got it figured out. After some trial and error a shim of .060 was required to get the alignment right. reinstalled everything and the new starter works as expected. Started it up and took it out around the block got good and warm. Turned it off and started up again just fine I guess the new teeth were just binding in the ring gear causing the bendex to remain engaged. I looked into the "brown solenoid" it's #1114458 with a special return spring 1978281 for hi temp resistant conditions. might actually be one on my old starter as it appears to be brown. Thanks again all for your help and advice. It kept me going.

Brown bakalite solenoid cap

new starter and solenoid from below. shim can be seen white in lower left.

starter brace and solenoid harness connections at front. and grnd. strap at upper brace connection.

 

DO NOT GIVE UP YOUR ORIG STARTER AS A CORE!! It may well be the orig from the car with the correct date codes and part numbers.

 

Right, looks like 1109061 8A165 5
Delco Remy needs a good home to the right car. maybe someone know what it came off originally.

# and date code