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Just curious guys, if the rebuilt O-ring calipers Ecklers sells are decent? IDK who rebuilds them. They have a good sale going on now, and #2, they have a couple items I don't see at other places (all of the items in one order).
The reason I ask is, looking very carefully at my existing SS (lined) calipers, which I was going to rebuild, I see quite a bit of wear on the walls of the SS insert. Not scratches, but wear areas rubbed down probably from warped rotors. I'm wondering if buyers of new calipers who post here might have been the result of a "quickie" rebuild where the sleeves weren't properly inspected and re-machined (or replaced). Otherwise, is there a better, more thorough, rebuilder?
Most reman centers have been moved to Mexico with according results. Very high failure rates. I believe Lonestar is the only rebuilder still doing the job in America. Their product is stellar in my book. Replacement warranties are fine from most suppliers but if you're eating the labor each time, that gets old pretty quick. If you're going to do the job, limit your chances of having to re-do it again 2 months later.
Cheers, Greg
Most vendors sell different grades of calipers. Make sure you get stainless steel sleeved calipers that are Delco Moraine. Many of the local auto stores and some vendors sell off shore manufactured calipers which are garbage. If yours have already been sleeved, rebuild them yourself. I have done six cars using O-rings. They are easy to rebuild and I have not had a problem with them Jerry
I would rebuild mine, but after very close inspections the stainless sleeves are worn enough it's not worth me screwing with IMO. They'd probably leak w/o refinishing.
If you do it yourself you will have the comfort of knowing it was done properly! I did mine 20 years ago, it's probably that time again. Back in the day they would not take SS Sleeved calipers for cores. I bought the parts and did my own set and had no problems.
If you hear the benefits of "Silicon based" brake fluids, ignore them. I switched everything over and tried it, it clearly does not have the compression characteristics. I then had to switch things back and flush, flush to get that stuff out of my brake lines.
The Phoenix Reverse Brake Bleeder is an awesome tool to speed up the fluid flushes. You can flush a entire car in 1/3 hour once you do it once or twice. When you have 8 road driven vehicles that all need their brake fluid flushed it helps a whole lot. It will even do hydraulic Clutches in Corvettes as well.
I bought mine from them 2-3 years ago. They were remaned in south Florida by CSSB. Prices were identical but I had some sort of discount coupon. I would by from them again if done by CSSB.
My VBP SS calipers that I put on the car in 1985 with LIP SEALS (no orings) are perfect still today!
I bleed through some fresh brakes fluid every 3-4 years and all us good. As stated MANY times on this forum, changing the brake fluid every few years is vital to low to no maintenace with SS calipers. You should not have to rebuild them every 10, 20, etc ., years, if you change your brake fluid. Can't comment about the O-ring seal band aid that some calipers use......
Back in 2012 I used VB&P stainless steel sleeved rebuilt car set (4 calipers), 2nd design brake calipers. Fully assembled with new pistons, O-ring seals, dust boots, stainless steel bleeder and plug screws. These are the ONLY calipers with a 4 Micron finished sleeve.
I purchased a caliper "kit" from Ecklers a year ago. It included rebuilt O-ring stainless sleeved calipers, organic brake pads, and rubber brake lines. If I recall the price was around $450. There is also a $200 core deposit on your old calipers which took a month to get back. The name on the box indicated the rebuilt calipers were rebuilt by "Doctor somebody"..??? I deem the quality as very good and the calipers were Delco. No problems and good stopping power with the organic pads.
Thank you for your comments, suggestions and perspectives. As I mentioned before, I really would like to rebuild these (that was my intention), but every front caliper half has some rub-wear in the sleeves. Some are minor, but one caliper has deeper wear than you might think (I'll see if I can get a picture). Maybe I'll hit them with some wet/dry paper and see how they look afterwards. I haven't read anywhere about stainless sleeves wearing, but I assure you they can. The rotors on my car were (warped pretty bad when I got it). By the time I sandblast them and buy the parts ..with the potential of leakage, I'm really not saving a whole lot of money or time.
Thanks for your comments on Silicone brake fluid. I haven't heard that from others. People tend to make it out as the miracle fluid that will cure all ills. Hmmm...
I guess I can answer my original question: Just got a note from Ecklers tech support that CSSB is their supplier for rebuilt calipers. Others have mentioned good things about them in older posts I've read.
I haven't heard too many people profess the superiority of lip seals.
OK guys I got looking again at the bores in my calipers. Just for grins I hit the worst bore with some 220 grit and WD-40. A few minutes of working on the ridges, holy crap they're coming out pretty well. A few more minutes, then onto some 400/600 and 1000gt and the bores look perfect. Very good. So I did the other 3 on the worst of the front calipers. Looks like I CAN rebuild these now ...with a little more elbow work (plus sandblasting and high-temp paint). I will remove the rears and inspect them before I make a final determination. I'm glad you guys gave me the 'kick' I needed. Of course by the time I get these all done I'll have 1.5x in time/money as a rebuilt set of calipers, but if they don't leak it's worth it.
I haven't heard too many people profess the superiority of lip seals.
Just to be clear about 2 things:
Back in 1985 no one sold O ring seals so I had to use lip seals.
Second, I am not stating that Lip seals are superior to anything. Only point of the comment is that VBP SS calipers with lip seals that are now 35-36 years old on my 78 C3 installed by me in 1985 are still perfectly functional with no leaks. Changing the brake fluid every few years in a properly functioning C3 brake system with lip seal calipers can and will allow lip seal SS calipers to last a very long time, without O ring seals installed.
Last point, I know several C3 owners with SS calipers from various manufacturers that have their rebuilt lip seal calipers on their vettes for many years with no leak issues as well. In fact, I do not know any C3 owners with SS O ring calipers on C3's. The preponderance of C3 SS Calipers out there are lip seal calipers. They will work fine on a properly operating brake system. I have never been convinced of the O ring seal superiority theory......
whomever makes the repop ones using old oem molds sold at advance auto did a great job on the one I had to replace 6 years ago... so well it has zero rust on it like my other 3 originals I rebuild and I have thought of painting them because I have one shiny new looking caliper and 3 rusty originals. I rebult all 4 of my calipers using the lip seal kits sold at autozone for like $28 to rebuild all four but later when I replaced my pads I didnt seat a clip right on one and the pad shifted and caused the piston to **** in the wall and damage one of my original calipers...
I suggest looking on youtube for the videos on rebuilding the calipers before replacing them.. it really was very easy and cheap to do so and you can even use the better oring seals. mine did not need honing just a little emery cloth cleanup.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 6, 2020 at 09:35 AM.
I haven't heard too many people profess the superiority of lip seals.
.
Under braking pressure the lip seals are expanded further against the piston groove and cylinder wall creating a better seal with larger sealing surface. That expansion doesn't happen with o-rings. (Can't remember where I read this but it makes sense to me.)
Last edited by barkingrats; Jun 6, 2020 at 04:55 PM.
Under braking pressure the lip seals are expanded further against the piston groove and cylinder wall creating a better seal with larger sealing surface. That expansion doesn't happen with o-rings. (Can't remember where I read this but it makes sense to me.)
how do you get a better seal than one that doesn't leak?
in theory the lip seals would take the pressure from the fluid and make the rubber lip seal blow outward towards the piston walls, sealing better
I the only time mine ever leaked was from sitting long periods (over winter) in my garage and tapping the brakes a couple time always stopped the leak.
Ecklers Calipers any good?
