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I cant say. Never used PP. I'm glad you had a Fluke though. Those numbers really look good. Normally I would expect at least .0100vdc running and .150-.200vdc loss in cranking test.
Positive drop test would be in order now. Move your lead to the positive side of the battery. The Running test will be same type of test except the other lead will be on the output of the alternator. The cranking test will be on those same two points. Now you can go the gauge fuse with the positive meter lead and see what happens there in the crank test.
Positive drop test would be in order now. Move your lead to the positive side of the battery. The Running test will be same type of test except the other lead will be on the output of the alternator. The cranking test will be on those same two points. Now you can go the gauge fuse with the positive meter lead and see what happens there in the crank test.
thank you
Cranking fans on
bat pos to alt..0.48
bat pos to fuse panel ign 0.68
Last edited by interpon; Jun 14, 2020 at 04:19 PM.
I think the board already has resistors..here is a video that is interesting...
note mine issmooth when running except once in a while slight wiggle at idle..but motion similiar to this video but worse..
And for whayever reason tach accurate at idle until earmed up then idle reads ~400 rpm low but accurate at speed...weird https://www.google.com/search?ei=YrT...HwbkP5_-80AU29
Last edited by interpon; Jun 14, 2020 at 07:43 PM.
The next direction would be disconnecting the white wire (tach) at the Hei and start /run the engine and look at the tach. On visuals, is the white wire next to any plug wires? If so reroute it clear of them.