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ordered 6ea 1350 series for half shafts and drive shaft.. Drive shaft is from a TKO 500 from the differential to the transmission. Not 1350, measures 3.625 X 1.64 and can find no corresponding size on JEGS. What series is this?
Thanks, Bill
My TKO600 came with a 1330 output chromemoly DS and billet caps with 12 point bolts from Keisler
Thats a nice setup on the end caps, my car is set up for road racing so dont need hole shot torque. Going with Spicer solids and more secure fasteners similar to yours anyway. Just because I can. Last name is DunCan heheheheh
My 434 Motown Puts out quite a bit of TQ. Thousands upon thousands of road racing miles. I use a 4.11 rear end to keep the gear spacing better. I never have had a problem with the drive shaft u-joints even with big 345 slicks.
My 434 Motown Puts out quite a bit of TQ. Thousands upon thousands of road racing miles. I use a 4.11 rear end to keep the gear spacing better. I never have had a problem with the drive shaft u-joints even with big 345 slicks.
Roger that, I have seen your car on here, very nice setup. I am going to go ahead and replace the 1330's on the driveshaft since the entire rear end is off the car. Going to open up the diff today and inspect. Have e-mailed Gary to see if he is still rebuilding differentials. Trailing arms have been sent to Van Steel for rebuild.
Roger that, I have seen your car on here, very nice setup. I am going to go ahead and replace the 1330's on the driveshaft since the entire rear end is off the car. Going to open up the diff today and inspect. Have e-mailed Gary to see if he is still rebuilding differentials. Trailing arms have been sent to Van Steel for rebuild.
Tell me about your build and what kind of class road racing are you doing. I'm just saying that your drive shaft is already balanced and it really doesn't need anything bigger. Half shafts is another story though. Lets say that I have 600 foot pound of TQ. That is all your drive shaft will ever see. Then install a 4.11 rear end and it multiplies the TQ. I've beat the crud out of outers and U-joints. I just upgrade when stuff fails.
Tell me about your build and what kind of class road racing are you doing. I'm just saying that your drive shaft is already balanced and it really doesn't need anything bigger. Half shafts is another story though. Lets say that I have 600 foot pound of TQ. That is all your drive shaft will ever see. Then install a 4.11 rear end and it multiplies the TQ. I've beat the crud out of outers and U-joints. I just upgrade when stuff fails.
Car was built in New Mexico by Sharkracer I believe, Was sold and raced by Myles in district 8 (New Orleans) AutoX where he won the championship. I purchased the car 7-8 years ago. Not a serious racer, have done No Problem Raceway's 1.8 mile 14 turn. Most fun I ever had in a car! If I sell the car, Myles wants it back.
73 t-top car, L98 block 383 stroker, Scat internals, Dart II heads w/ TPiS fuel injection, Mild cam, Hooker headers and sidepipes, Fidenza flywheel, backed by TKO 500 18" Cragars w/ 295 fronts and 315 rears. Autometer, roll bar, Can Am headlights. Road race fuel tank/ internal pump. Guessing less than 400HP, never dyno'd it.
If I keep the car, probably AutoX it Lake Charles LA, and local joyrides
Bill
Trailing arms have been sent to Van Steel for rebuild.
It's a good time to get 1/2 inch studs and the stronger outers. Since you have an OD manual do some calcs on gearing in OD. If you are not worried about highest speed One of the racers here on the forum did a 4.30 rear end. I only have the 4.11 and you can actually really go fast and have power in OD
what shocks and spring rates do you have? I'm perfectly fine driving around today on the street with 650 front and 520 rear mono. It doesn't squat on the rear it goes forward with a vengeance. Stomp on the brakes and it doesn't nose dive and change the alignment. I put in the bump steer kit and limiting wheel travel keeps the front tires planted
It's a good time to get 1/2 inch studs and the stronger outers. Since you have an OD manual do some calcs on gearing in OD.Going to have to look in my files for gear ratios on my Tremec 500 If you are not worried about highest speed Not One of the racers here on the forum did a 4.30 rear end. I only have the 4.11 and you can actually really go fast and have power in OD
what shocks and spring rates do you have? VBP 420 rear, 450? fronts I think, in my build file I'm perfectly fine driving around today on the street with 650 front and 520 rear mono. It doesn't squat on the rear it goes forward with a vengeance. Stomp on the brakes and it doesn't nose dive and change the alignment. I put in the bump steer kit and limiting wheel travel keeps the front tires planted
My questions to you w/ your HP and tire size-- Diff and TA's 17 or 30 spline? your setup still uses 1350 u-joints? Oversize halfshafts of course, What size? did you have to modify your battery box compartments for clearance?
This is the whining diff oil I drained this morning, see the silver? Talking to GTRvette1999 now about shipping to him
Since TA's and diff have to be rebuilt, comparing cost between 17 and 30 spline rebuilds