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I tried to adjust the parking brake last weekend with limited success. Want to take another whack at it but be better prepared. Last weekend I loosened the cable under the car to total slack. Took the rear driver wheel off and was able to adjust the PB star assembly to tight then back off so the disc can be turned by hand with a little effort. When I tried to repeat this on the passenger rear I could not get the star assembly to tighten, only loosen. Tried to remove the caliper from the outside of the car and basically bent a 5/8" wrench beating it with a hammer to loosen the front caliper bolt. Put a little penetrating oil on it and let it alone till now. The lock washers on both caliper bolts are completely compressed to the point of showing an open gap between the ends. I realize I need a breaker bar to get them loose and need to remove the brake line to get the rear bolt. My questions are theses:
1. I'm sure I can bleed the brakes after reassembly but how much fluid should I expect to escape and is there a way to limit that?
2. What do I need to disassemble on the rear suspension to get access to the front bolt from under the car? It looks like the trailing arm and shock will limit access to that bolt. Note I have the VBP rear suspension. My VBP rear suspension caliper bolt on front caliper bolt on rear
1. I'm sure I can bleed the brakes after reassembly but how much fluid should I expect to escape and is there a way to limit that?
2. What do I need to disassemble on the rear suspension to get access to the front bolt from under the car? It looks like the trailing arm and shock will limit access to that bolt. Note I have the VBP rear suspension.
My breaker bar has enough slop in the socket/head angle that I can get a socket on the bolt without removing any suspension parts. Try it when you get a breaker before you take anything apart. I don't recall if I also use a short extension (2"-3")
If you are able to get the caliper loosened without opening the lines, you may not need to bleed. Just lift the caliper off the rotor and put a spacer socket or something between the pads to keep them apart. Be careful with the solid line on the top of the trailing arm - lift the caliper only enough to clear the rotor.
PS - if you pull the clip that holds the hard line on top of the arm and the rubber line coming from the frame line to the bracket, you will have more flexibility in moving the caliper too.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jul 1, 2020 at 07:03 PM.
My breaker bar has enough slop in the socket/head angle that I can get a socket on the bolt without removing any suspension parts. Try it when you get a breaker before you take anything apart. I don't recall if I also use a short extension (2"-3")
If you are able to get the caliper loosened without opening the lines, you may not need to bleed. Just lift the caliper off the rotor and put a spacer socket or something between the pads to keep them apart. Be careful with the solid line on the top of the trailing arm - lift the caliper only enough to clear the rotor.
PS - if you pull the clip that holds the hard line on top of the arm and the rubber line coming from the frame line to the bracket, you will have more flexibility in moving the caliper too.
Thanks. it looks to me like I need to disconnect the hard line from the caliper to get a socket on the rear bolt. I tried and could not seem to get the socket mated to the bolt head.
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I just take the ire off and use a box end wrench or a breaker bar to get both bolts from the wheel well. Yes you have to remove the brake line to get a socket or wrench iin there. I take that line off totally so I dont bend, kink or put a hole in it.
and its enough fluid to make a little mess but a good coouple of rags under the fittings before you open them up is enough to sop everything up.
When I did my rear parking brake, I did it by the AIM and never got them really tight enough to stop the car on a hill. This last time I tightened them up until it took the wobble out of the rear disc with the tire removed. I then tghtened the pull cable and they work perfect now. Super great and hold on the hills
the bolt under the hard brake line. can you get a closed end wrench on it? cuz it looks like you can put a jack under the wrench and jack up to loosen it. once it pops loose, maybe 1/4 to 3/8ths adapter and wobble extension will get around the line.
Parking Brake Help
