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I need to install one due to limited filter clearance between filter in OE location and headers. Changing filter is a struggle and my filter is so close to the primary tube that I'm sure my oil is collecting significant heat while IN the filter.
Anyone have pics of theirs and install stories?
Thanks.
I put one on my 80 TransAm once and within 2 weeks removed it due to oil leaks at the fittings on the rubber hoses. Took off the header and massaged it with a bench vice to gain the needed clearance. Filter fit fine,and no leaks! :smash:
With the turbo's and the downpipes I won't have clearance problems there so I switched to a sandwich adapter (for oil cooler + accumulator) also from moroso. I switched because I needed the space that the remote filter took up for the accumulator.
The key to prevent leaks is using AN hose and teflon tape on the fittings. I never had any leaks.
From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
St. Jude Donor '05
Re: Remote Oil Filter, Anyone? (flynhi)
Will , my '93 S-10 4X4 had one from the factory and I never had any trouble with it. It also had a place to further access an oil cooler.
The reason I liked it was that it had Hi-Pressure hoses with fittings like an A/C or PS system with no screw clamps for the hoses. I felt a lot more confident with that style of hose. The S-10 may also be a good place to scrounge one up. The 4.3 probably also uses the same type of filter base. The hoses ran from the oil filter block base to the remote oil base that was placed on the left side inner fender, just to the rear of the header panel. The hoses might even work.
Will,i have one on my74R,it is plumbed with braided lines to a cooler in front of the radiator and back into the block,no leaks no probs at all and i can use a large spin on filter and get at it.....as mine is rh drive it is mounted on a bracket on the left inner fender walljust behind the part that curves around the suspension......it goes with a very large custom sump with one way gates and windage tray on a strong 383 with custom long tube headers.....john :chevy ;)
well after hearing this i might get one and add an oil cooler.
how much of a benifit is achieved by adding an oil cooler the motor,,,,,i imagine no gains in performance but more in longevity to the engine, does it make the car heat up too slowly in the winter time?
There are a couple of GM factory alternatives that might work out here. My '92 GMC K2500, with the 350 engine, has the 90-degree adapter for the oil filter with the oil cooler adapter as well. All GM 4x4 trucks of that era have the 90-degree adapter for the filter, because a standard vertical filter would interfere with the front drive shaft. It uses a somewhat smaller filter (skinnier but longer than a PF-25) that sits horizontally. The oil cooler lines connect to the 90-degree adapter, and then run up to the radiator, on the driver's side. There shouldn't be any reason that this hardware won't bolt up to an older small-block. If you have a manual trans, and you installed a radiator for an automatic, you could even hook up the oil cooler lines to the radiator and have a very clean installation with no aftermarket oil cooler. :cool:
There are a couple of issues with the truck's setup. First, you can't change the oil filter without making a mess, at least I haven't been able to. A vertical filter, like the standard old Chevy setup, just can't be beat for simple, clean, filter changes. The horizontal filter on the 4x4 drips oil everywhere. Second, the oil cooler works great, but I wish I could turn it off when I don't need it. It takes way too long to warm the engine up in the winter when I'm not towing anything. Seriously, there is no measurable heat in the cab of the truck for at least 15 minutes after a cold start. I'd put a valve in the cooler line, but as I understand it, that would block all the oil flow. To make that work, I'd have to install a complete bypass (3 valves and a crossover line), and so far I haven't been quite that ambitious... :rolleyes:
It doesn't really get cold here but also,be careful not to confuse oil temp with coolant temp as they are different.....my engine has very tight tolerances and flows alot of fuel/ air hence it makes internal heat.....as well,it is a hduty Bowtie Block with thicker/heavier walls.....the coolant temp runs rock solid at 192* max no matter what sort of racing or driving,which includes track racing recently on a 90*+ day......my real heat problem is the underhood temperatures as a result of the headers and it is difficult to get the hot air out quickly enough......with 3000 mile oil and filter changes the oil is still in perfect condition when i take it out...john :chevy ;)