Rear Rotor Revisited.........
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Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 489
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From: Orlando Florida
Rear Rotor Revisited.........
I read back throguh a million threads on rear rotor removal and they were all very helpful, but I am still stuck. I drilled out the rivets, but the rotor still won't come off. I know that the rotor can hang up on the parking brakes, but mine haven't worked since I bought the car three years ago. Thinking that it may still be a problem with the parking brake I attempted to turn the rotor so that I could line up the holes on the rotor and adjust the brakes, but my rotors wont turn????? Is there something obvious I am missing??? What would cause the rotors not to turn other than the parking brake???? HELP!!!!!! :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Mary Esther Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
Put the wheel back on and try to turn your rotors that way. My rotors will not turn by hand either unless I put the wheel back on. Maybe, the force required to turn it is too great to be able to move it by rotor alone....Hope that helps...By the way, it sounds to me like maybe your E-brake is holding the rotors on. As far as I know, they are only held on by the rivets. Good luck..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (1979VetteMike)
I just wedged a 2x4 up under the rotor and applied pressure to the studs and it still won't budge??? If my parking brake has never worked before, how would it be stopping the rotor from turning no when I haven't done anything to adjust it??? The parking brake cable is real loose under the car which is probably why the parking brake isn't working, it needed adjustment. This would certain make one think that it's not a factor, but I am not aware of anything else that could be stopping the rotor/hub from turning?????? Man I hate working on stuff like this, it's just never easy :(:(:(:(
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From: Mary Esther Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
After responding, I thought about it a bit and thought that I could be a little more clear and systematic. Here goes:
1. Make sure the car is out of gear (make sure the front is either on stands also or chocked). If the car is in gear, then the force of the transmission will be keeping the rotors from turning.
2. If the rotors still do not turn, put a wheel on and use the extra size of the tire to help turn the rotors enough so that the hole for the E-brake lines up.
3. If you can get to the hole that goes through the rotor for the E-brake, you should be able to get the rotor off. You may have to put the wheel off and on several times to get it turned enough. By the way, the wheel does not need to be bolted down- just put it on so that the lugs are through the holes. I am pretty sure the E-brake is holding the rotor on.
4. Is there any play in the rotor? Sometimes just a very little bit of residual rivet material left can hold the rotor to the hub. Usually, rust won't hold that tight unless you have alot of it. What I am getting as is this- if the rotor has no play at all, I would recheck the rivets. If there is some play, I would guess that the E-brake is the culprit.
Just my second opinion. Good luck........Mike
1. Make sure the car is out of gear (make sure the front is either on stands also or chocked). If the car is in gear, then the force of the transmission will be keeping the rotors from turning.
2. If the rotors still do not turn, put a wheel on and use the extra size of the tire to help turn the rotors enough so that the hole for the E-brake lines up.
3. If you can get to the hole that goes through the rotor for the E-brake, you should be able to get the rotor off. You may have to put the wheel off and on several times to get it turned enough. By the way, the wheel does not need to be bolted down- just put it on so that the lugs are through the holes. I am pretty sure the E-brake is holding the rotor on.
4. Is there any play in the rotor? Sometimes just a very little bit of residual rivet material left can hold the rotor to the hub. Usually, rust won't hold that tight unless you have alot of it. What I am getting as is this- if the rotor has no play at all, I would recheck the rivets. If there is some play, I would guess that the E-brake is the culprit.
Just my second opinion. Good luck........Mike
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From: Mary Esther Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
If the E-brake is not working it could have worn grooves on the inside of the rotor- that is probably where it is hanging up.-I guess I got lucky, but my rotors had deep grooves on the insides where the E-brake "rides".
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (1979VetteMike)
yes, once again my car has made me look like an idiot!!!!!!!!!! You would think that I would check to see if the car was in park before trying to turn the rotor, but NNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.......... ....that would be too frickin easy :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad
P.S. Thanks for your help mike!!!!!!
P.S. Thanks for your help mike!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (1979VetteMike)
The rotor turns now, but when I look throw the holes in the rotor I see no adjustment screw to turn. I am convinced the if I loosen the parking brake I can get the rotor off, but after 4 complete turns, I don't see any stinkin screw to adjust???????? :cry :cry
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Instructor
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 222
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From: Albany N.Y.
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
Make sure you have slack in the brake cable. The adjustment hole for the e-brake is in the rotor. Bring this hole to the bottem and look for the adjustment star with a flaslight. You have to back off the adjustment to get the rotor off. The trans has to be in neutral. With the caliper off or out of the way use a non metal hammer and tap the rotor, turn rotor 180 degrees tap again. It should loosen up provided you have the rivit heads drilled off. They can be tough to get off because of rust build up inside.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Tom77)
I'm with you on this one Tom and I have everything as you say, but I don't see any adjustment star. I have a flashlight and good visability, but I dont see anything that even remotely resembles an adjustment point. I have a picture of someone adjusting the parking brakes and it looks like the adjustment screw is in the 6 o'clock position if the rotor was a clock face, but no mater how many times I turn the rotor and look through the holes I don't see a screw????
Instructor
Joined: May 1999
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From: Albany N.Y.
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
I'ts not a screw, It'a star wheel. Try at 5:00 or 7:00 o'clock. The same set up as drum brakes. Use a long screw driver either up or down to loosen adjustment.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Tom77)
Alright, we are starting to get some where. I found the star wheel and I started turning it counter clockwise or up if it helps. How do I know if I am tightening it or loosening it??????
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 489
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Tom77)
I'm not sure. It's been a while since I did mine. If you tighten the adjustment the rotor will no longer turn. Then go back the other way.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D This is such an exacting science aint it!!!!!!! I'm turning it now so we'll see how it goes. :cheers:
Instructor
Joined: May 1999
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From: Albany N.Y.
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
Sounds like your on your way. Make sure you mark the rotor so it goes back on the same way. Do a search in the forum for parts and assembly. Happy Thanksgiving.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 489
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Tom77)
I guess I was going the right way the first time!!!!!!!! I got done adjusting the parking brakes all the way in and then about three wacks with the hammer and off she came. It was some remnants on the rivets holding it on, but it came off easier then I thought with my favorite tool........ :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: .........the hammer. Now it's time to drill out the other side and go to work!!! :cheers:
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 489
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From: Orlando Florida
Re: Rear Rotor Revisited......... (Warp70)
I got the other side off and the parking brakes are off as well. None of this stuff has seen daylight, probably since the car left the factory. Very scary stuff in here. I have decided to replace the rear bearing while I have everything apart. It looks like I need some sort of spindle puller according to my book. Anyone know where I could rent one?????? I'm going to keep this thread going for informational purposes since these type of overhauls and repair come up quit often on the forum. If any of you were thinking about replacing your rear rotors, but didn't want to tackle the job due to the factory rivets, take it from me..............it's really not that bad. As long as you have a drill and a 5/16 inch drill bit made for drilling into metal, you should be fine. You may want to use a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole first, it does help speed up the process.
