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Need some adv from the engine builders
Checking push rod length with porform tool
I have a hyd. cam with .500 lift. With lob on base, push rod installed, tool installed. There is about .033 thou. gap at valve tip. Is this ok, because of the preload needed for lifter. Thanks for your help
For me the purpose of checking push rod length was to get the right rocker arm geometry or wear pattern of rocker arm to valve tip. Are you using the tool springs that are for checking the geometry and is your preform tool an adjustable one?
The way that we check for proper push rod length is to install very light duty springs on the two valves for one cylinder,
using a crankshaft turning tool we rotate the crank watching the wear pattern across the top of the valve stem. Adjusting the adjustable pushrod tool until proper pattern is achieved.
Measure the length of the adj. pushrod.
Proceed to the next valve and repeat procedure and take another measurement as the length might be different between intake and exhaust. T
Not a big fan of the plastic tool that fits over the rocker stud. It works fairly well for stock stamped rockers but most people are not using those anymore. It would get you close.
Better to use dye on the valve stem tip with the adjustable length pushrod to check for wear patterns. That works for any rocker arm regardless of manufacturer or type.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I use the ProForm plastic cheeter tool and like it. Close is good enough as you see p-rod lengths come in 0.050"increments unless you order custom. Always verify the marks after assembly.
FWIW, OE-type stamped shoe / slider rockers are far less dependent upon PR Length than are anything having a roller Tip.
Most of even the latest OE LS & LT motors' rockers do have a roller Fulcrum but still have a Slider Tip.
It's been proven via SpinTron; most of the friction in rockers is in the Fulcrum and Not at the Tip. Counter-intuitive but true nonetheless.
FWIW, OE-type stamped shoe / slider rockers are far less dependent upon PR Length than are anything having a roller Tip.
Most of even the latest OE LS & LT motors' rockers do have a roller Fulcrum but still have a Slider Tip.
It's been proven via SpinTron; most of the friction in rockers is in the Fulcrum and Not at the Tip. Counter-intuitive but true nonetheless.
Guide wear becomes an issue with friction at the tip combined with high lift. Newer guide materials have taken care of that for the most part.
Not a big fan of the plastic tool that fits over the rocker stud. It works fairly well for stock stamped rockers but most people are not using those anymore. It would get you close.
Better to use dye on the valve stem tip with the adjustable length pushrod to check for wear patterns. That works for any rocker arm regardless of manufacturer or type.
The video Jim posted is the correct procedure but not everyone can do this at home.
The stock sbc was 7.800 for pushrod length. This length was a nominal and was too short out of the factory for any engine that I have measured. Most all stock head small blocks that I have measured with a stock deck height are 7.850.......of course there are too many variables to set this number in stone.
You claim you have a .033 gap......add that to .020 pushrod plunge and you get the 7.850 number I mentioned assuming you used stock pushrods to "check" with.
You need an adjustable pushrod checker......
The plastic tool assumes bone stock geometry and is damn close for stock hydraulic stuff.....but not really the "right" way.
The video Jim posted is the correct procedure but not everyone can do this at home.
The stock sbc was 7.800 for pushrod length. This length was a nominal and was too short out of the factory for any engine that I have measured. Most all stock head small blocks that I have measured with a stock deck height are 7.850.......of course there are too many variables to set this number in stone.
You claim you have a .033 gap......add that to .020 pushrod plunge and you get the 7.850 number I mentioned assuming you used stock pushrods to "check" with.
You need an adjustable pushrod checker......
The plastic tool assumes bone stock geometry and is damn close for stock hydraulic stuff.....but not really the "right" way.
Jebby
Thanks for your reply. What I have, now is non stock push rods # 48829. The gap is between the valve stem and the tool. Witch leads me to believe that with lifter preload it might be about right. This is what I am looking at THANKS
Thanks for your reply. What I have, now is non stock push rods # 48829. The gap is between the valve stem and the tool. Witch leads me to believe that with lifter preload it might be about right. This is what I am looking at THANKS
Incorrect......if the tool is installed with the pushrods you say......then you will need a longer one. You need the adjustable checker. That toe on the checker needs to be on the tip of the valve. Now look at the other side, that is how much longer it needs to be plus .020-.030.....like I say, most I do come out to 7.850. I bet this one does too.
This is with the push rod installed. For the checker to sit on the valve I will need to depress the lifter plunger down about .033. Longer push rod does not seam right, Am I just not getting it THANKS Jebby for your help
This is with the push rod installed. For the checker to sit on the valve I will need to depress the lifter plunger down about .033. Longer push rod does not seam right, Am I just not getting it THANKS Jebby for your help
I get you now as I am not seeing the whole thing.
Looks like you are fine for length....the geometry will be close, but you will not know exact unless you have the light tension spring and roll it over.
It is very easy to do....and on stock head you only need to do one....all that is required is an air cylinder hold tool and the adjustable pushrod.
Some aluminum head manufacturers suggest right from the get-go that a 0.100 longer pushrod will be needed. This is usually due to the extra meat on the cyl head surface and the extra height of the rocker arm stud pad.
I never used a soft valve-spring when I set-up my new aluminum heads & cam. And I just used a felt pen to mark / dye the valve-stem tip.
Keep in mind on a dual pattern cam that both intake and exhaust should be checked, because nether has identical lift.
You may end up buying 8 pushrods different than the other 8 if the wear marks shows to do so.
And then there's the guys that have 8 rocker arms with a different ratio . . . . . . .