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I replaced the cable from the e-brake lever to the cable that connects to the two rear wheels. Its almost as tight as it will go (the cradle and bolts are as close to the front of the car as they will go) and the e-brake does engage but it only stops the car rolling backwards. In neutral or under drive it pulls forward.
I've tightened the gears that are visible through the hole in the rotors and that does nothing - does it mean I need to replace the shoes and that system within the wheel hub? I've since tightened the bolts so that the rear cable doesn't have any slack.
What procedure did you use to adjust the parking brake?
Did you release all cable tension first at the tensioner and made sure the levers on the back of the brakes were fully in the off position?
Did you tighten the shoes till the disc would not move and then back off 6 to 8 notches?
Did you then apply the parking brake lever in the car 2 notches?
Did you then tighten the equalizer until you had a slight drag?
Did you then release the park brake lever handle and made sure you have no drag?
Pretty much followed all of those steps, the issue I had was with:
Did you tighten the shoes till the disc would not move and then back off 6 to 8 notches?
I went up as many notches as I could (parking brake OFF) and could still turn both rotors by hand. With the handbrake lever fully pulled, I can no longer turn by hand or using a pry bar (forward or reverse)
When rolling backwards in neutral the brake catches. When in reverse gear, the brake catches. When rolling forwards in neutral there is little to no resistance with the brake fully engaged.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Seems like something is amiss in the parking brake shoe area....are your rivets drilled out yet to take a look? Could be worn pads just on one side of each shoe or a part missing or broken.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Noticed there is a nut on the front side of the equalizer. In the AIM I have, both nuts go on the back side of the rod. Does not seen like this would affect what you are seeing however. Also are the two brackets that hold the metal sleeved portion of the cable on each side hooked up correctly? I had one missing on my car.
Seems like something is amiss in the parking brake shoe area....are your rivets drilled out yet to take a look? Could be worn pads just on one side of each shoe or a part missing or broken.
Stolen from the internet...
Can the old actuating lever be removed and the new one installed without separating the two parts of the lever itself? I've got stainless steel replacements and am working through how to remove the old through the dust shield. I assume I also need to take slack out of the rear parking brake cable at the equalizer to remove the cable out of the actuating lever?
One thing I found when adjusting mine was they still would not hold on a hill until I did the burn in. Found this process somewhere on here.
Going 45mph in a safe location, slowly pull the parking brake up 10 notches while maintaining speed. I did this 3 times, when I got home mine held the car in place in neutral in my driveway which has ~25 degree angle.
I did have to adjust my cable beyond the allowed length. I added a 1" spacer between the bracket and the nut that holds the cable that runs across the rear brakes. This essentially gave me another 1" of adjustment as the cable while appearing new from the PO simply did not have enough adjustment.
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C3 hand brake/e-brake only engages backwards
