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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 11:42 AM
  #41  
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Richard, try one of these:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages...rFilter100.php

It's probably just a choke.
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 12:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by GordonR
1st of all I like your presentations. . As a rule I try to keep parasite wiring off the battery posts due corrosion and intermittent charger / jumper use damage over time plus it looks messy and unorganized.
Thanks- I do the same as far as power terminals off the battery- I use the marine SS buss bars-

As far as jumping the car- I use a BMW terminal (off a 7 series) under the hood as the jumper post- As behind the driver seat is a PIA.






Originally Posted by GordonR
European cars are expensive
HAHA- I know- I'm running parts of one in my 71...








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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Richard454
Thanks- I do the same as far as power terminals off the battery- I use the marine SS buss bars-

As far as jumping the car- I use a BMW terminal (off a 7 series) under the hood as the jumper post- As behind the driver seat is a PIA.








HAHA- I know- I'm running parts of one in my 71...



BMW tech through and through. Your thefirst I've seen to install that remote ground for jump starting . You will blow a IBS sensor in a heart beat jumping right the battery on 04's and up lol.
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 01:15 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Richard454
So just like this? But use a fusible link versus on the side of the road serviceable fuse?

Yes, the method I have always described. The one you started posting after I pointed out multiple times that it makes little sense to run a number of smaller feed wires to the battery (the method you used to hawk as the only way to do it) when a nice heavy wire with much less resistance is available at the starter solenoid.

I don't know why there is such hate towards fusible links. They are a last line protection against a direct short and will only open if there is a major failure that can't easily be fixed on the side of the road. You did the installation wrong if you're blowing fuses for no reason. That should only happen if something has failed and then you're probably going to install your spare and promptly blow it too leaving you just as stranded as you claim the fusible link will leave you.

I have only had one link failure, it rotted because a previous idiot owner probed the jacket with a test light which let moisture in. Pretty simple to splice and get home where I properly replaced it. I should have checked them better to ensure they were in good condition.



Originally Posted by Big2Bird
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf

It would seem the engineers at Mercedes Benz disagree.
Yes, of course a magazine article written for people who have little to no clue about how electricity works would explain the technical details correctly.

Moving away from the alternator, the rectifier pulses get attenuated due to the wire resistance and inductance, not because the battery "stops" them. Every noise source gets attenuated the further down the wire you go towards another load, even in systems without batteries or capacitors. Yes, alternators produce a high enough ripple frequency that the wire inductance has a significant effect in filtering it.

Last edited by lionelhutz; Aug 6, 2020 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 01:36 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I don't know why there is such hate towards fusible links. They are a last line protection against a direct short and will only open if there is a major failure that can't easily be fixed on the side of the road anyways, If you're blowing fuses for no reason then you did the installation wrong.
There are NUMEROUS threads on reversing the jumper cables- a major failure on behalf of the cable operator!!!

A simple couple twists - the fuse is replaced- back on the road in minutes. You don't have to get your hands dirty and can do it in a suit and tie....

Richard

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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 03:51 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Richard454
There are NUMEROUS threads on reversing the jumper cables- a major failure on behalf of the cable operator!!!

A simple couple twists - the fuse is replaced- back on the road in minutes. You don't have to get your hands dirty and can do it in a suit and tie....

Richard

So, you know the fuse will blow and protect everything else if jumper cable are hooked up wrong? I've read lots of forum threads when that happened and it left the fusible links but killed other parts.

To be honest, I don't really care let alone worry about fusible links instead of fuses that ~might~ help on the side of the road. Fusible links have worked without issue for the life of billions of cars. So, I simply don't worry about them in my cars. Properly installed, they will protect the wiring right at the source down by the solenoid without ever having an issue and that's a place where a fuse would never survive.

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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 11:01 PM
  #47  
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[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/3f855295-6a6e-40d4-9195-88b09ac92992[/img]
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