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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Like Jebby said - OR build a nice 421 motor, but the price keeps going up. $5K+ for the other motors and $7K for the latter easy. Use good parts, not the most expensive parts. Build a nice strong bottom end if you are hell bent on 500+ HP. I think the rest of your drive train will suffer though with that much power unless you up grade that as well. Oh...and did I mention the price keeps going up? A never ending money pit, ask me how I know this.
BKbroiler has a nice running 383 if I remember correctly, saw his vid a while ago, the car scoots! I don't remember what TC he is running, but the 3.73 helps a lot to get it rollin'.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Aug 10, 2020 at 11:33 AM.
My 72 had Vortec heads on it when I bought it - I still have them if you are looking for a good place to start. The car ran strong with them but I used a stock intake and it cost me some of the higher rpm fun. If you interested in the heads just let me know, they can be had reasonably - they ran well until I swapped them for aluminum $$$.
It will cost about $4k to build from what you have now, taking into account machine work, the all new rotating assembly and new heads. Add about $800 if you want to use a roller cam.
Any less $$$ and you will need to scrounge up some very good deals to get there.
Hope you have a good machine shop available. I just dropped off some stuff and they told me about 3 month wait.
As you probably know, 383's were born when somebody figured out you can put a 400 crank in a 350 block. Since then everyone and his dog has started making 383 kits. Even GM is making a 383 crate motor, although its not exactly a 350 bore/400 stroke. I built a 383 years ago when the only cranks that were readily available were the factory cast cranks. It was a nice little motor but eventually I broke the crank. and I really didn't drive it that hard. The lesson here is don't build a high performance motor with a low performance crank. Make sure you get a good quality forged crank. They are even available as internally balanced units these days. Saves the problem of getting a new ring gear and balancer.
One more thing. I know at least five guys who have bought GM crate motors over the last few years and had nothing but problems. Most of these things are made in Mexico now and the quality control is extrememly suspect. If you buy a crate motor, look for a reputable builder.
Appreciate all the replies everyone. Given me plenty to think about. Had figured to over build the bottom end with higher rated hp items. Will look into vortec heads. Need to figure out what mine engine has to get a better knowledge of what id need to buy. Can you measure stroke with the heads off? Like rotate crank to find tdc the bottom?
There is a small machine shop in the little town of Beech Island, SC called Abby's. They are also engine builders of the extreme-sort..... They build race motors with the nature of a pedigree but they also build big block plane engines and street motors of every kind. They are professional and yet - reasonable - when it comes to cost. The machinest is an absolute perfectionist and is also a very nice guy. They are the only folks I trust (other than my own hands) building anything for me. His shop is full of high-end motors in varying degrees of completion. It's a gear-head paradise....You can easily find their phone number on the web if you are interested. He has done work for me for over 20 years and built me several motors. He is building one for me now, a 434. He also built my 383 and a 454 crew cab dually - one of the few giant old trucks (1982) that will smoke the rear tires like you are burning pine straw in the bed of it...lol...Just one of the many options for you to think about...
Those shops are hard to find now..I used a 1 man shop who used to race with Prudhomme back in the day....shop looked like a pit but turned out super nice stuff, did his own balancing etc. Know of 1 or 2 higher end shops full of cnc machines but have gotten crap work depending on who they hired...a basic street strip 350 starts at 8k. Cheap crate engines are killing off the little guy
Regarding crank shafts - I have an Eagle cast steel crank in my 383. The bottom end has not been taken apart during all the time I've put 11k street miles and hundreds of quarter miles on it. So cast cranks and stock rods are fine at the 400 hp level at least. Forged pistons are worth the money however.
I can recommend a great machine shop in NJ if you're interested.
Cast steel cranks are amazing on how much they hold.......but they are much more brittle than a forged alloy.....so they crack when they fail........
You will outrun the block on any stock GM small block before you lunch a Cast Steel crank. I have a cast steel crank in my own 406.
Going back to my 406 statement in my previous post........it cost the same to build a 406 as a 383 if you use a GM block and they run MUCH harder with a good head as it un-shrouds it so much.
At 1.2-1.3 horsepower per cube......that is 30 horsepower......for the same money.
Cast steel cranks are amazing on how much they hold.......but they are much more brittle than a forged alloy.....so they crack when they fail........
You will outrun the block on any stock GM small block before you lunch a Cast Steel crank. I have a cast steel crank in my own 406.
Going back to my 406 statement in my previous post........it cost the same to build a 406 as a 383 if you use a GM block and they run MUCH harder with a good head as it un-shrouds it so much.
At 1.2-1.3 horsepower per cube......that is 30 horsepower......for the same money.
Jebby
Not for the same money.........Is the 400 block free?
No....but starting from nothing.....it is the same money....
Is the 350 block the 383 is being built from free?
Jebby
The only 400 block i was aware of was the dart SHP which is like 1800$, I imagine your talking about the GM cores that I'd likely have to source from a junkyard?
The only 400 block i was aware of was the dart SHP which is like 1800$, I imagine your talking about the GM cores that I'd likely have to source from a junkyard?
Sure....they are out there.....I have one.
not as hens teeth as one would think....
I do not mean to insult any one but I just did a 383 Stroker myself'. My original engine was numbers matching, it now resides on an engine dolly still in my possession. After months of research and several experienced people providing advice, the fact is that no one is going to provide a selection of parts on their first or 3rd or 5th try that is going to perform better, or be cheaper or be quicker then one of the top Crate engine performers... period!
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I disagree. Crate engines are thrown together with inferior parts to increase the profit margin. Some say that they buy in quantity and get stuff cheaper. They have workers to pay and you never see top shelf cranks, rods, billet steel solid roller cams, timing chains, super push rods, valves, springs. My first 383 had parts to turn 8000 rpm and set the rev limiter at 7500 to make it last longer. None of those builders put in thousands upon thousands of dollars in just the rotating assembly. My advantage is that I worked on high end racing motors for years and I knew what it takes. So my first 383 had 227cc heads and 11.2 C/R. Great street and track motor. Most people don't want to pay 10-15K for a street motor
never say period! I built and rebuild sprint car motors that were leased for $50K a year 30 years ago. People who couldn't afford the R&D to stay competitive just leased motors.
Also new GM Bowtie 400 bore blocks and seems BluePrint & World Products have new 400 blocks as well..
for all that $, an LS3 w/ a little more cam is in the 500HP neighborhood.
I've thought about going the LS swap route but know that there is a lot more to change than just the engine with that and didn't know if I was ready for that type of "adventure".