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454 engine mount advice please.

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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 08:55 PM
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Default 454 engine mount advice please.

‘73. 454. TH400.

Way back twenty years ago the previous owner rebuilt the engine to make quite a bit more power. After tearing two drivers side poly engine mounts in half he replaced all three mounts with solids. After I bought the car the first time I swapped the transmission mount to poly, as I wasn’t comfortable with everything on solids. I wasn’t getting any vibration, but I had it in my head that I might just crack the transmission case if things twisted enough.

Fast forward to when I sold the car about 8 years ago. That buyer swapped to poly engine mounts and promptly tore the drivers side mount in half under acceleration. He put the solids back on but left my poly transmission mount in place.

Now that I have the car back I’m fixing a bunch of things in hopes of getting it back on the road. Right now my passenger side header is off and I have clear access to the passenger side engine mount. I’m thinking (which is often bad) that I should swap that mount to poly while it’s so easy to get to and just leave the drivers side solid mount in place. The drivers side is the only one which doesn’t seem to be able to handle the torque. That side DOES take all of the pulling force, right?

Is my logic sound or should I just leave both engine mounts solid? And was my initial “fix” of replacing the transmission mount with poly okay?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 09:24 PM
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Use a solid driver side mount only.
Use rubber or poly on pass side & trans.
-add-
poly don't like heat; if real close to header/downpipe, choose rubber instead of poly

Last edited by 71chimera; Aug 23, 2020 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 71chimera
Use a solid driver side mount only.
Use rubber or poly on pass side & trans.
-add-
poly don't like heat; if real close to header/downpipe, choose rubber instead of poly
Glad to hear that at least one person thinks I’m on the right track.

Thanks for your response.

Anyone disagree?
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:23 AM
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Why would you change it at all? No benefit if the engine is running smooth.
Solid mounts and a poly trans mount are a good choice.....

Jebby
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Why would you change it at all? No benefit if the engine is running smooth.
Solid mounts and a poly trans mount are a good choice.....

Jebby
Been running that combo for a while with the 496 big block. No issues.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveG75
Been running that combo for a while with the 496 big block. No issues.
My favorite part on the small block cars is it opens up precious area to work around the P/S pump and Fuel pump.....your wrists will thank you.

Jebby
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Why would you change it at all? No benefit if the engine is running smooth.
Solid mounts and a poly trans mount are a good choice.....

Jebby
^^^ This. Just leave it alone, sounds like it is working as is.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 01:54 PM
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Mostly because I give great advice but rarely take it. My base position is always, “If it works, don’t fix it.”

Sadly though, my wheels are always spinning and I’m always looking to “improve” something.

But in this case I think you all are right. I’m going to leave it alone. Thanks for talking me off of the cliff.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 03:47 PM
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Even if some folks don't notice solids' vibration, do any consider what those vibrations are impacting ?
highest performing ICE powered plane used em and most still do (Lord Mount)
doubt creature comfort was much of a consideration during fighter design; surely airframe was.




https://www.aircorpsaviation.com/eng...-p-51-mustang/
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 09:43 PM
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Front and rear motor plates no trans cross member.
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