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Change Trans Fluid?

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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 12:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by caskiguy
So a question regarding fluid change on the transmission. As one drains the transmission, changes the filter as required what happens to the fluid that remains in the Torque Converter ? And if someone switches from standard ATM to Synthetic would you not have to "flush" the converter as it does hold a good bit of fluid.
Answers appreciated.
you can change the fluid by opening the return line between the radiator and the transmission.

get some rubber or vinyl hose push it on the line then into a gallon jug.

start the engine and run until 3 qts have pumped out. Turn off the engine. Then put in 3 qts.

Repeat this process until total capacity of trans fluid has been removed and replaced.

now you’ve replaced all the fluid.

if you need to replace the filter you’ll still need to pull the pan.
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
........

My freaking lawn tractor with a sealed transaxle had a premature failure as well. Guess what I do with the replacement transaxle now with the sealed tranny and lifetime fluid? RIGHT I change the fluid every 2-3 years with Amsoil synthetic hydrostatic fluid....all good 12 years in now...Hmmmmmm.

Everyone else.change your tranny fluid /filter often on any car, sealed or not, "lifetime" fluid or not.........
I've had a Manual shift mower transaxle fail. Supposedly sealed. Mine, like gazillions of other mower transaxles manufactured by Peerless-Tecumseh. Failure was lack of lube. It, like gazillions had a rudimentary "disk brake" on a tiny rotor at end of very short shaft extending from transaxle housing. There's a conventional lip seal on that shaft and it failed; losing lube little-by-little. I replaced the seal and drilled the housing for refill. It lasted that season plus another but, I assume, low-lube damage prevailed. I had a another parts mower I'd bought; was in Great shape except for its windowed block. As a plus, it had a semi-automatic hydrostatic Peerless-Tecumseh transaxle; I simply swapped motor, intake & exhaust. As insurance, I replaced hydrostatic's brake shaft seal, drilled for refill & added a bit of EP-90 gear lube (same for both manual & hydrostatic).
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Old Aug 28, 2020 | 03:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 71chimera
I've had a Manual shift mower transaxle fail. Supposedly sealed. Mine, like gazillions of other mower transaxles manufactured by Peerless-Tecumseh. Failure was lack of lube. It, like gazillions had a rudimentary "disk brake" on a tiny rotor at end of very short shaft extending from transaxle housing. There's a conventional lip seal on that shaft and it failed; losing lube little-by-little. I replaced the seal and drilled the housing for refill. It lasted that season plus another but, I assume, low-lube damage prevailed. I had a another parts mower I'd bought; was in Great shape except for its windowed block. As a plus, it had a semi-automatic hydrostatic Peerless-Tecumseh transaxle; I simply swapped motor, intake & exhaust. As insurance, I replaced hydrostatic's brake shaft seal, drilled for refill & added a bit of EP-90 gear lube (same for both manual & hydrostatic).
I watch the fluid level constantly...zero leaks and I change the transaxle fluid every 2-3 years. 12 years in now cutting 1 acre per week and all good. The first Peerless that failed did not have any leaks, either. 12 years of the same cutting and usage with old fluid equals transaxle failure!
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Old Aug 29, 2020 | 09:04 PM
  #24  
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For those pulling a return line on service. The pump only pumps about 30 percent of the oil it pumps to the cooler , the other 70 percent works the transmission . On transmission like a 700R4 the pump sends about 10 percent of the oil to the cooler until lockup clutch applies then it jumps up to 35 percent , that’s why 700’s burn up on a good highway drive when the TCC is inop , Sonnax makes a valve to address cooler flow when not using the TCC system on street rods
​​​​​​ So 3 quarts of bad out doesn’t necessarily mean 3 quarts in will replace it . It would probably take over 20 new quarts to flush clean a 11 quarts capacity of what’s in the transmission when doing the cooler method at 30 percent if fluid was really bad
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 10:25 AM
  #25  
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my understanding is that when the pressure regulator is out of balance due to low line pressure the oil is directed to the torque converter vs normal line pressure operation.
I can tell you from years of doing this procedure that the oil goes from dark red to bright pink in a transmission that needs a change.
ford has this exact procedure in it’s service manual for a 2010 model vehicle That I owned for transmission fluid Change.

been using it for 10 years now with no ill effects and nice clean looking fluid when done.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Aug 30, 2020 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
you can change the fluid by opening the return line between the radiator and the transmission.

get some rubber or vinyl hose push it on the line then into a gallon jug.

start the engine and run until 3 qts have pumped out. Turn off the engine. Then put in 3 qts.

Repeat this process until total capacity of trans fluid has been removed and replaced.

now you’ve replaced all the fluid.

if you need to replace the filter you’ll still need to pull the pan.
Thanks for answering my question.
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 12:10 PM
  #27  
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You’re welcome!
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