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Just installed vintage air on my 69 427 coupe. I had the system evacuated and charged by a mechanic according to the instructions. I am having problems with the belt squeeling when the compressor kicks on. I have it tight. What would cause then compressor to bind up?
Just installed vintage air on my 69 427 coupe. I had the system evacuated and charged by a mechanic according to the instructions. I am having problems with the belt squeeling when the compressor kicks on. I have it tight. What would cause then compressor to bind up?
Just installed vintage air on my 69 427 coupe. I had the system evacuated and charged by a mechanic according to the instructions. I am having problems with the belt squeeling when the compressor kicks on. I have it tight. What would cause then compressor to bind up?
Are you running the wp to crank belt with the idler pulley?
Just installed vintage air on my 69 427 coupe. I had the system evacuated and charged by a mechanic according to the instructions. I am having problems with the belt squeeling when the compressor kicks on. I have it tight. What would cause then compressor to bind up?
You need another belt from the crank pully to the water pump pully with a Ider pully. The squeeling is actually coming from the drive belt that is water pump to power steering to crank pully. To much load on the single drive belt pully
First of all, have you ever replaced the wp to crank belt? It can be tricky. There are several threads about replacing the wp to crank belt. You might be able to install a new belt that is tight enough so your compressor belt won't squeal and not need the idler pulley.
The idler pulley pushes in on the belt to tighten, and can be adjusted more to compensate for belt stretch later as it wears, if needed. It's simple to install.
Here are the aftermarket parts, you will also need a lock washer and nut for the adjustment stud.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Sep 5, 2020 at 03:38 PM.
First of all, have you ever replaced the wp to crank belt? It can be tricky. There are several threads about replacing the wp to crank belt. You might be able to install a new belt that is tight enough so your compressor belt won't squeal and not need the idler pulley.
The idler pulley pushes in on the belt to tighten, and can be adjusted more to compensate for belt stretch later as it wears, if needed. It's simple to install.
Here are the aftermarket parts, you will also need a lock washer and nut for the adjustment stud.
thank you. No I have not ever replaced that belt. Looks like a difficult job. I guess I will install the idler pulley as well. I assume there is an empty hole on the front of the engine for the bolt? This is a non air 427.
That Sanden compressor should easily operate with only 1 belt (mine has for years).
Ensure that you have a quality brand name belt (really---I didn't believe it either when the guy from Napa told me.....until I gave up and did it).
First thing you might want to try is getting some "belt dressing" to check and see which belts are screeching.... it's relatively cheap.
thank you. No I have not ever replaced that belt. Looks like a difficult job. I guess I will install the idler pulley as well. I assume there is an empty hole on the front of the engine for the bolt? This is a non air 427.
Your probably have to remove the crank pully.
The idler pully will be difficult. Your probably have to remove the fan and the shroud to install the idler pully.
My engine was out so it gave me the opportunity to align the pulleys with washer shims . It can be done in the car but the shroud needs removed.
The bottom idler mounting bolt and spacer shares a hole with the lower power steering bracket. The holes in the idler pulley are there so you can use a socket with a short extension to access the lower bolt. The upper adjustment stud replaces a water pump bolt.
Your probably have to remove the crank pully.
The idler pully will be difficult. Your probably have to remove the fan and the shroud to install the idler pully.
My engine was out so it gave me the opportunity to align the pulleys with washer shims . It can be done in the car but the shroud needs removed.
I've removed my idler pulley before and I didn't have to remove anything when I re-installed it. I had plenty of room, put the stud in first, then place the idler pulley slot onto the stud and start the washer and nut to hold it in place. Then you can hold the spacer in place and put the bolt through and screw it in.
Originally Posted by Z06CE
Green 454...That's a cool load leveler!
Thanks, but not mine...I borrowed the photo for reference.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Sep 5, 2020 at 04:48 PM.
Vintage air compressor question
