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Cold Exhaust from Driver’s Side

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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 06:11 AM
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Default Cold Exhaust from Driver’s Side

Hello! I’m new here! I just finished putting a bunch of new parts on my 1980’s engine (Top end kit, carb, fuel pump, headers, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rocker arms). When doing the cam break in my buddy noticed that the driver side exhaust was cold. It felt like it was puffing out ambient temperature air, and the exhaust piping was much cooler than the other side. We both recognized that it sounded different from the passenger side as well. Our first thought was that there was something wrong with the ignition system (currently still running the original distributor, with new wires and plugs). Using an inductive timing light we saw that all 4 wires were sending current. Next, we took out the spark plugs, and when we took them out 2 looked normal, one snapped in half but looked fine, and the last had a significant amount of soot for only running for 1/2 an hour. I replaced the spark plugs and no change. I’ve been trying to find possible issues but I’m stumped. Thanks in advance!

Last edited by John Minnehan; Sep 18, 2020 at 06:13 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:12 AM
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What intake and carb is on this setup? I assume this has headers and true duals installed?

Jebby

Last edited by Jebbysan; Sep 18, 2020 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:12 AM
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check for comparative spark to a good one visually?
check cap
replace wire/ swap and check again?
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:22 AM
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@Jebbysan It has an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake and AVS2 carb, and yes true duals. I called Edelbrock and the tech guy assured me it wasn’t the carb or intake.

@interpon I will give those a shot today and see what happens.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:25 AM
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It's very easy to mix up the spark plug wires on cylinder pairs. For instance 1 and 3, or 5 and 7. Doing that will spark the cylinders on the wrong stroke and they won't fire at all. This happened to me the other day on cylinders 2 and 4.

Check the firing order of the wires on the distributor and label each. The routing of the wires makes it impossible to visually trace so use an ohm meter on each wire, one at a time.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by John Minnehan
@Jebbysan It has an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake and AVS2 carb, and yes true duals. I called Edelbrock and the tech guy assured me it wasn’t the carb or intake.

@interpon I will give those a shot today and see what happens.
I asked to see if it had a true divided plenum. It does not. This rules out one side of the idle circuit not flowing.
If fuel is flowing to all eight but two are spot fouled then it is in the ignition.

Jebby
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I asked to see if it had a true divided plenum. It does not. This rules out one side of the idle circuit not flowing.
If fuel is flowing to all eight but two are spot fouled then it is in the ignition.

Jebby
good point..
i think he said only one was fouled? One cracked but ok
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 10:29 AM
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You say you and your buddy. Did one of you set the valve-lash on one head? Somebody else did the other side?

A quick compression test might tell us a story between the two heads also.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 26, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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Update: I purchased new spark plugs, the ones recommended by Edelbrock for these heads. I also replaced all the spark plug wires. I double checked each spark plug wire going to the correct cylinder. After starting her up and letting her run we don’t think the ignition is the problem. Only about 30 seconds of running and it was apparent that the passenger side was running way richer than the driver side. The inside of the exhaust was coated in soot where as the drivers side was spotless. After checking the carb again, it still doesn’t look like that is the issue. I plan on double checking the lash and then going from there. I am also waiting for a cylinder compression gauge to come in the mail.

Last edited by John Minnehan; Sep 18, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by John Minnehan
Update: I purchased new spark plugs, the ones recommended by Edelbrock for these heads. I also replaced all the spark plug wires. I double checked each spark plug wire going to the correct cylinder. After starting her up and letting her run we don’t think the ignition is the problem. Only about 30 seconds of running and it was apparent that the passenger side was running way richer than the driver side. The inside of the exhaust was coated in soot where as the drivers side was spotless. After checking the carb again, it still doesn’t look like that is the issue. I plan on double checking the lash and then going from there. I am also waiting for a cylinder compression gauge to come in the mail.
Does the car still have manifolds...and the dreaded heat riser valve? If so.....is it open?

Jebby
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 03:19 PM
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@Jebbysan Nope, I have long tube headers.
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Old Sep 18, 2020 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by John Minnehan
@Jebbysan Nope, I have long tube headers.
Then compression check is the next thing.....

Jebby
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 03:34 AM
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As I wait for the compression gauge to come in the mail, I’m trying to figure out why the passenger side might be running so much richer than the drivers side. Any thoughts?
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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Check the valve lash while you wait. Could be some valves are just cranked down too hard. 1/2 to 3/4 turn after lash is taken up. Use the jiggle up and down method vs the spin method on the pushrods to accurately judge when lash is gone.
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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At this point, you don't know 100% for sure one bank is running richer. Sooty plugs could also be poor firing of those cylinders from low cylinder pressure, known as incomplete burning.

Why would just one bank of cyl have low cyl pressure? That gets back to compression test: head gasket or valve lash.

Dual plane Intakes do not feed all the drivers side cylinders from the drivers side Intake plenum. Nor does the passenger side. This makes me think your issue is not Intake or carb related. There is no correlation. But valve lash or head gasket on one bank does have a correlation.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 19, 2020 at 06:15 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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wag
new but damaged wires/boots on pass driver side; grounding to headers instead of to plug electrodes

Last edited by 71chimera; Sep 19, 2020 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 03:40 AM
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I actually had the same problem recently !
Thought it was the ignition that was the culprit. Changed plugs, wires and distributor. Still same problem. Turned out to be valve lash. Had to redo all my valves ,preload + 1/2 turn (hydraulic) Now runs like a champ
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To Cold Exhaust from Driver’s Side

Old Sep 20, 2020 | 06:05 AM
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I will definitely reset the lash on the passenger side and see what happens, I’m hoping that is the only issue. For those following along, I won’t be able to work on the car until next weekend but I will post an update as soon as I can!
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 11:25 PM
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To anyone who is still following along, I did the compression test today and got some interesting results.1 : 155
3: 145
5: 140
7 : 160
8: 142.5 (150)
6: 75 (155)
4: 0 (152.5)
2: 145 (145)

The drivers side did not have any issues but 6 was low and 4 had 0 psig! I reset the lash on both sides, (I did the divers side last weekend) and the passenger side today. After resetting the drivers side I got the numbers in the parentheses, so all were as expected. I’m hoping to start her up tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for everyone’s help so far!
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Old Sep 26, 2020 | 03:15 AM
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Looks like your onto something! Good luck.
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