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Hello, I’m trying to remove the lower dash pad on my 71. I removed 7 screws 3 on the top 2 on the door side , 2 on the gauge side still wont move. I removed the vent handle so I think I missing something that is holding it in. I removing it so I can get access to the nuts that hold the bezel to the console ,so I can remove my oil pressure gauge. Thank you in advance for your help...
Hello, I’m trying to remove the lower dash pad on my 71. I removed 7 screws 3 on the top 2 on the door side , 2 on the gauge side still wont move. I removed the vent handle so I think I missing something that is holding it in. I removing it so I can get access to the nuts that hold the bezel to the console ,so I can remove my oil pressure gauge. Thank you in advance for your help...
Assuming you're talking about the passenger side: then you need to remove the lower kick panel. once it's out you'll have room to drop the dash pad down and out from under the upper dash without breaking anything.
So, remove the door sill plate then the kick panel.
You will better off by loosing the screws holding in the console first. If your console meets up with the gauge cluster, you don’t want to brake the 40 year old plastic/vinyl tips.
i have a 71 and you should not have to remove the sill plate or the kick panel to get the dash pad (with the pockets) out of the car. if you remove the little square panel by the front of the center consol that may help but all you should have to do is remove the 7 screws you mentioned and the pad should come out.
On my 68 I remove the sill plate and the lower kick panel--- I don't see it coming out easy without removing those......it helps avoid breaking things. It's easy enough to do and it's gentler on the old parts.
Last edited by carriljc; Sep 24, 2020 at 04:41 PM.
After looking at it closer , I had to remove the sill and kick plate and the lower dash pad came right out. Now my other problem is I’m trying to remove the nut that holds the gauge cluster to the console it’s giving me a tough time.
After looking at it closer , I had to remove the sill and kick plate and the lower dash pad came right out. Now my other problem is I’m trying to remove the nut that holds the gauge cluster to the console it’s giving me a tough time.
Thank you again to everybody who answered my post
Well the good news is you're likely the first person to remove the cluster as those two lower nuts are seldom reinstalled.
Bad news is those two nuts are difficult to access and only allow short turns of the wrench.
They will be an exercise in patience.
Be VERY careful raising/removing the center cluster after you remove those nuts as the studs can easily rip/tear the vinyl on the center console.
Helps to put a towel over the center console to protect it while you're working.
AND be very careful you put NO pressure on the upper section of the cluster else the wiper switch area will snap off from the gauge section.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Sep 24, 2020 at 05:06 PM.
I suggest dropping the radio "back" (away from from the bezel, or really forward) and then you should be able to reach and access the nuts. Replace them with long nuts and buy a little ratching wrench to reinstall. I'll see I can find a picture..... gimme a few...
I use a ratching open end wrench to install and remove since I installed the "rod coupling nuts" put on there..... before that, for ages, I didn't even have those 2 lower nuts installed. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-wrenches.html
Last edited by carriljc; Sep 24, 2020 at 06:31 PM.
FYI - here is the latest USB/Aux Input stereo I put in my car when my last cd player failed. No depth so it's real easy to reach those little nuts now from the side now. It's a cheap one that I just put in to see if I like it but it's worked fine so I've kept.... I'll replace it with another better quality one someday ..... it was like 22 bucks so no-harm, no-foul.
Last edited by carriljc; Sep 24, 2020 at 06:29 PM.
Some have used 1 or 2 extensions and deep socket to remove those nuts. You gently pull the bottom side of the console out and work the extensions/deep socket up the tunnel to reach the nuts that way.