My dad and I are trying to bring his 1972 Corvette back to life. It's been sitting in the garage for the past 38 years. Over that time, the keys have been lost, and we're trying to get some new ones made.

We read that the key code is written on the hand manual, and ours indeed was! It's a 4 character code (number-letter-number-number). We took this code to our town's reputable locksmith, who cut a key. However, the key doesn't even fit in the slot (neither door nor ignition).

I'm not an expert, but I think it was cut on the wrong blank. The locksmith used a B48-A blank. Based on my research, a 1972 corvette needs a 320652 54-C blank to work in the ignition (http://www.camaros.org/keysandlocks.shtml#systems). The locksmith did seem confused about the blank at first, so I think it's possible he used the wrong one.

Before I go back to the locksmith and embarrass myself, I'd like to confirm that a 1972 Corvette definitely needs a 54-C key, assuming the locks are original. Alternatively, if someone can point me to where I can look up the key cut / blank needed based on a key code, I'd be interested to see that table. If that's not possible, I can also just send someone the key code, although I guess I was trying to avoid putting that out there on the internet, whatever that's worth.

Thanks for the help. The fallback option is bringing a mobile locksmith out to pull the steering column (was quoted $300). I've been trying to access the doorlocks but two screws are stuck pretty tight and I'm afraid of stripping them. With the key code, that should be avoidable, right?

 

I got a key cut and it was the wrong size did the same thing it was too thick

 

Here's what I have on keys

GM manufactured and sold the GM Lettered, single sided, 6-cut key from about 1968 to the mid 90's.
The GM single sided key is sold in letters A, B, C, D, E, H, J and K, and this letter is stamped in the keys key blade.
The lettered keys are sold in pairs and the primary and secondary keys are paired as (A, B), (C, D), (E, H) and (J, K).

Oval D code - 1972 Rear storage compartment & anti-theft.
Square C code - 1972 Ignition & doors.





M

 

I removed the alarm switch from my 73 and took it to a real locksmith. They were able to open up the switch and make two new keys for me. For the ignition and door locks I had keys, so I purchased the correct lettered blanks on eBay and had the locksmith cut them for me.

 

I bought some blanks on ebay.


The Ignition key (square head) is stamped E
This blank is also equivalent to these manufacturers part numbers:
Axxess 6
ColeB44
CurtisB44
Dominion P98E
ESP P1098E
Jet B44E-NP
JMA GM-E
Original 320404
Silca GM5
Star HBR9E
TaylorX98E

Axxess 10
Cole B45
Curtis B45
Dominion S98H
ESP S1098H
Jet B45H
JMA GM-H
Original 320405
SilcaGM6
Star OBRH9
Taylor098H


The door/trunk/glovebox is stamped D

This blank is also equivalent to these manufacturers part numbers:
Axxess 9
Cole B51D
Curtis B51
Dominion S98D
ESP B51
Jet B51D
JMA GM-D
Original 320653
Silca GM4
Star OBR14D
Taylor S91D

 

Key blanks are still available from all GM parts departments.

 

No need to mess with the steering column. Remove either the right or left door lock cylinder and take it to a good locksmith. Locksmith will be able to make a key based on the set up of the cylinders tumblers. Your new key should fit the ignition since both the doors and ignition were identical from the factory.

 

Even a new, correct key may not always work so well in an badly worn, correct lock; dangling heavy keychains can/will damage ignition locks.

 

Door cylinder would be correct code if the car still has the original ignition lock cylinder.
The 4 digit code must be "converted" through the set of books related to the model year and if not mistaken the actual model of car. I used to cut keys with the hand punch all the time when I ran the service center for a rental car company back in the late 80's early 90's.