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Differantial side yoke question.

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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 01:36 PM
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Default Differantial side yoke question.

My '76 uses U-Bolts to connect the side yokes to the halfshafts. I'm interested in buying a differential that has threaded side yokes already installed. I'm not really up to speed on my differential knowledge so somebody please riddle me this:

What is required to switch from a U-Bolt side yoke/halfshaft to a differential that uses threaded side yokes? Is it just a matter of fasteners?

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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 02:38 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

The automatics and BB used the so called HD axles with straps instead of U bolts. You can swap these and will need to pick up the straps and bolts if they don't come with them.
Gary
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 03:30 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

My 75 small block with automatic came with caps and bolts. The major work is in pulling the rear end to replace the yokes
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 04:34 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (norvalwilhelm)

So to use threaded side yokes installed in the differential I'm interested in all I would have to do is ditch the current U-Bolts and get the matching caps and the proper bolts, right?

My current U-Bolt yokes aren't reuseable. One of them has gone to poop--lots of slop.

Tom's Differentials has the caps for, like, $30 each. It can't be that easy, can it? I mean, we're talking about fargin' Corvettes here.


[Modified by The Dude, 1:46 PM 12/3/2002]
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:14 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

Obviously you have to drop the reear carrier to swap out the side yokes. I'm not sure if the u-joints are the same for the caps as opposed to the u-bolts. Otherwise that should be all that's needed.

Just a question, why do you want to change in the first place? The u-bolt is not the weak link in the equation here. When something back there breaks, it's usually a u-joint itself.

Shannon
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:14 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

To use the threaded yokes you have to drop th erear end out of the car,pull the rear cover off, remove the snap rings and swap the yokes. If all you need to do is change the U bolts that's a lot easier. The U bolts will hold up to a lot of abuse. If you don't have over .045- .050" end play in them leave them until you really need to drop the diff.
Gary
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:26 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (sb69coupe)

let me guess your yokes just pulled right out of the differential,,,,right. :yesnod:
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:18 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (sb69coupe)

Titanium Rat, you got it. And it happened quickly, too. This differential was given a clean bill of health about 4 or 5 months ago

Obviously you have to drop the reear carrier to swap out the side yokes. I'm not sure if the u-joints are the same for the caps as opposed to the u-bolts. Otherwise that should be all that's needed.

Just a question, why do you want to change in the first place? The u-bolt is not the weak link in the equation here. When something back there breaks, it's usually a u-joint itself. Shannon

I've got a couple of things working here. First off, the yoke on the passenger's side is no longer seated properly in the diff. There is at least 1/4" of slop. I discovered this while I was installing longer lug studs--I noticed I could move the trailing arm assembly up and down a surprising amount very easily. Crawling under to take a look, I can watch the side yoke slide in and out.

Second, I have 3.08 gears in this car right now. It's no longer street-driven and I've never liked the 3.08s anyhow. This "new" differential would kill two birds with one stone for me.

The only question is about the different mounting schemes--Corvettes used two different ones. One is U-Bolts and nuts and the other is with steel caps and bolts.

Mine uses U-BOLTS and nuts to link to and retain the the U-JOINTS and link up to the halfshaft.

The one I'm interested in buying has yokes that are threaded for solid caps and bolts--the caps retain the U-JOINTS (instead of the existing U-BOLTS) and bolt down to the yoke.

I just want to find out whether making the swap between these two mounting schemes is as simple as getting the proper caps and bolts.

Nobody knows for sure, it seems. Either that or I'm not explaining this well at all.



[Modified by The Dude, 3:29 PM 12/3/2002]
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:36 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

Dude, sometimes "life" is simple, the only difference in the yokes is the caps. I have seen them in catalogs for $38 each BUT if you or anyone else is interested I have a brand new set of 4 caps in the GM package for $125 and I will pay UPS. ...redvetracr
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:51 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (The Dude)

It is as simple as is sounds. Drop in the new diff with the threaded yokes and caps. According to the results of a parts search I just ran, the u-joints are the same for both type of side yoke. Looks like a simple r&r job to me.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:52 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (redvetracr)

If you want to switch from U-bolts to caps and bolts, you also have to change the yokes. U-bolt yokes are not threaded for the cap bolts, and do not have enough "meat" in this area to simply be tapped.

Mike
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 07:37 PM
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Default Re: Differantial side yoke question. (redvetracr)

redvetracr, sb69coupe--ding! ding! ding! ding! ding!

Thanks mucho for the insight. Remove old diff with U-Bolt side yokes and put it away. Install new diff with threaded side yokes. Install new caps and bolts to suit threaded side yokes. Go driving. Very cool...
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