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Question about the C3s. From Chevy, did the cross member have the tubes to run the exhaust through the cross member? Or was that an aftermarket thing? I was told that Chevy ran the exhaust thru the cross member, but I don't think that is true. Were all C3 cross members for automatic transmissions (th350) the same? Mine has been "modified" to allow a little more room for the exhaust to sneak by, but I don't like it. I have seen some units made of tube, but generally they are in a kit for changing to an OD transmission or a 5 speed. Can you get a cross member with low profile for a TH350? If so, where?
Tons of variations custom and factory
my understanding
through 79 there are two holes that exhaust runs through..although not true duals since 74 i think...(using only one)
auto crossmember removable, manual not...
all can be modified
The answer is YES and NO: GM had AT cross members for dual exhaust on C3s up to 1975 before going to the 2-1-2 routing from 1976-1982. Aftermarket companies (BTO,etc) sell cross members to not only allow true dual to be added but also support trans swaps other than TH350s. You can buy them individually or in kit form.
I 'm pretty sure my '77 is a original cross-member. Its removable, has dual pipe locations, came w/ L48 & auto. The holes line-up somewhat for header configurations.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 6, 2020 at 08:52 AM.
My 72 is the same, bolt in with through holes. At some point that started to weld them in. Major pain to work on transmission but obviously cheaper to build. I eventually replaced with a nice tubular cross member to use with my TKO600 5 speed. Leaves plenty of room to run 3" exhaust pipes underneath.
I'm curious about how it was modified. If you mean one side is raised up and the other not, that was standard production on 80-82's. It was less expensive to make than the cross member with holes through it for the dual exhaust which, as others mentioned, was used up to 79 even though with use of cats starting in 75 there was only 1 pipe going through the center section of the car.
It was cut about in half on both sides and a new "bottom" plate was welded in. It looks like crap. It's probably strong enough. After all, it's been like that for over 30 years. I just don't like it. I forgot to take a picture of it.
That G-Force bar looks good. It would also give plenty of clearance where I need it. If anyone has used that one, I would love to hear your thoughts.
I ordered and received the g-force crossmember. It seems well build and was easy to install.
Does it matter which way the 5 inch bolts install that hold in the crossmember? Does anyone have a picture?
Ill post picture of the crossmember later today.
If you can install them in either direction it does not matter. I installed mine with head of bolt facing front of car. I did it that way to better protect the nut and threads from road dirt etc.
If you can install them in either direction it does not matter. I installed mine with head of bolt facing front of car. I did it that way to better protect the nut and threads from road dirt etc.
I agree, from an engineering point of view it doesn't matter which way they go. On mine I have the bolts in with the nut facing forward. Given the length of the bolt it was easier putting it in from the back where there is no obstruction. From the front you have to deal with the seat pans. That's probably not a problem on most. But on mine there was some shipping damage on the crossmember which placed slightly pulled one of the mounting holes on the frame downward. So, the crossmember was tilted slightly. This made blindly getting the end of the bolt to align through hole in the crossmember a bit of an exercise. Bottom line, whatever is easier and, if it makes no difference on ease of assembly, putting it thread back should keep it cleaner.
This is the drivers side. I see both statements as being valid on the orientation of the bolt. I like the idea of protecting the threads so I’ll flip the direction when I get home.
If you have the body off the bolts need to go head to the back else you can't remove them with the body on (at least on a '70 that is the case). Same with the trailing arms, the nuts have to go on the outside. Both of these were wrong on my car resulting in grinding the heads off the cross member bolts and saws-all for the trailing arm
If you have the body off the bolts need to go head to the back else you can't remove them with the body on (at least on a '70 that is the case). Same with the trailing arms, the nuts have to go on the outside. Both of these were wrong on my car resulting in grinding the heads off the cross member bolts and saws-all for the trailing arm
You just saved me some potential head aches. My body has been on and off over the last bit for parts fitting and I just noticed that both my trans crossmember and trailing arms bolts are in the wrong direction and I can confirm that they would be hard to remove after the body is all bolted down. Added to my list when the body is off next
If you have the body off the bolts need to go head to the back else you can't remove them with the body on (at least on a '70 that is the case). Same with the trailing arms, the nuts have to go on the outside. Both of these were wrong on my car resulting in grinding the heads off the cross member bolts and saws-all for the trailing arm