No....I use the firing order procedure he mentions early on.....

Jebby

 

So classic Lars procedure then.

 

Yes....although I was doing it this way way before I was ever here.....

Jebby

 

Will the above procedure work if you have a bad or collapsed lifter, on a engine with a few miles on it?

 

Well, no.....but it is a loaded question. Miles on the engine means nothing, and define bad or collapsed lifter. You can lash out anything but it will not be correct. But no matter what...the procedure will work....

Jebby

 

I also use the engine 1/4 rotation firing order method. On an engine where removing the spark plugs is easy, they also come out as rotating the engine by hand becomes a walk in the park. As far as knowing where 1/4 turn is given most balancer aren’t marked past TDC, wrap a tape measure (I “borrow” my wife’s sewing tape) around the balancer and measure the diameter. Then measure 1/4 the diameter from the TDC mark and use a contrasting sharpie to draw a heavy line. Make a second mark 1/4 turn from there and a third a 1/4 turn from there. I then measure from the third line to TDC to ensure it is the same 1/4 turn as a check that I did it correctly. Now it is easy.

 

Per the engine mileage, it was a attempt to differentiate between a new engine being assembled and one in a car. You're correct, mileage doesn't really apply.
Bad or collapsed?
One that doesn't work correctly.
I'm not saying that your procedure won't work. On the contrary, it is the norm.
Just saying that there are always alternatives.
FYI The 1970 (and other years) Motors Auto Repair Manual, which was the Bible of auto repair during the 50's, 60's, 70's, etc., lists the back off till it clatters, slowly tighten the rocker nut till it stops clattering, then a additional turn method, as their way to adjust Chevy hydraulic valves. No mention of the factory procedures.
This was the norm in the 50's, 60's, etc., and does work and may be easier, though potentially messier, for some people to get correct.

 

No mater if the engine is new, old or otherwise.......if the engine has a bad or collapsed lifter.....no procedure is going to make it right.......
You could theoretically tighten it down running to just before the bottom of a collapsed lifter plunger and make it quieter.....but no way will it be completely quiet and/or run right.
The only engine that you can adjust the lifters while running is the small or big block Chevrolet......a Pontiac using poly-locs..or a Ford converted to adjustable.....but all have to be hydraulic.
Motor didn't design the engine......they just found out it could be done with the engine running.
I will say again.....NO manufacturer or Pro Engine builder ever sets hydraulic lash while running.......now you can debate it all you want......but it is NOT the correct way of doing it. Whether it works or not.
My biggest beef is that it is impossible to get even lifter plunge on a set of 16 rockers with the engine running.....
Someone suggested that 36 degrees timing is not correct......but that is no comparison, the 36 degree number is accepted in all circles as the best total timing starting point for old Chevy's.....and there is benefit to doing it. There is no benefit to adjusting lifters while running....none. It is a procedure that gained traction by novice mechanics in the old days because they didn't know how to follow the instructions in the manual.
Lastly....why WOULD anyone lash while running....? You have to lash it proper for the engine to even start when it is built......if you have to do it again after it has already been ran, then something is wrong in the engine and it will not be rectified be "re-lashing" the valves.......hydraulic lash is set once and should never change.
You can do it however you like......but it is not right....and if you bring your car to me and tell me you did it that way....I will re-lash with the engine off, whether you want it or not.

Jebby

 

Same here as post #9 & #10, just did it this past weekend, Very simple process and nothing to over think.

 

I use the Lars method. Each cylinder in turn at TDC. Since I have Howard (Morel) hydraulic roller lifters, I follow their recommendations. .030-.035” of preload for iron block/aluminum heads. This works out to be 2/3 of a turn of preload with my studs. Full roller rockers with poly locks. Remove lash, 2/3 of a turn, lock it down. Repeat. Easy.

https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/7b0...ke3_563142.pdf