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Brake caliper sticking

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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 05:54 PM
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Default Brake caliper sticking

So changed brake pads front passenger, found caliper weeping so bought a new one. Damn pistons wouldnt retract enough to get new pads on. Finally went on. Bled caliper. New caliper sticks. Brake caliper is engaged no matter what. Swapped caliper. New one isn’t so stuck, however you can hear the grinding when ever so slightly and when you brake sure enough pulls hard to the right. What am I doing wrong? Oh yes after the second caliper I bled the entire system with new fluid.

Last edited by michael lamoglia; Nov 29, 2020 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:51 PM
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Possibility your brake hose needs replacing. They break down inside and when the brakes are applied and released, they don't let the pressure go back through the system and lock up the caliper. I had this happen to the rears and really toasted my rotors. Good luck.
Duane
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:52 PM
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Did you replace the hose, if old you may have damaged it internally while changing caliper.
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Duane4238
Possibility your brake hose needs replacing. They break down inside and when the brakes are applied and released, they don't let the pressure go back through the system and lock up the caliper. I had this happen to the rears and really toasted my rotors. Good luck.
Duane
Yes replaced yesterday liquid flows clearly and from the brake line as well. If the caliper pistons are extended the entire time how can I get the pad in? And if I force one in the other two extend so can’t get that one on. When I manager to get them in they’re stuck in the brake position. When you spin the wheel you hear the grind
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 08:02 AM
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Something like this made or bought ( i had some sheet metal and bent) or 2 crossed screwdrivers....
you may also crack the bleeder when pushing back if needed then re bleed..
do one side at a time..there are springs in pistons they are supposed to push out..but not lock..
push them back evenly so as to not catch sides of pistons

https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html

Last edited by interpon; Nov 30, 2020 at 08:03 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 12:16 PM
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You can use the tool in the above post or try a wide putty knife/scraper to push two pistons in and insert the pad.
The springs behind the pistons will always push the pad against the rotor.
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
Something like this made or bought ( i had some sheet metal and bent) or 2 crossed screwdrivers....
you may also crack the bleeder when pushing back if needed then re bleed..
do one side at a time..there are springs in pistons they are supposed to push out..but not lock..
push them back evenly so as to not catch sides of pistons

https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-b...tion-tool.html
bought it from walmart vendor ecklers exact item for 15 bucks will be here friday. here's hoping.

oh and in future do one pad at a time starting with inner and don't do both at once. i should have known better. see number 6 where my dirty fingernail is pointing (i've been working on the vette so i have the right to be dirty lol)



Last edited by michael lamoglia; Nov 30, 2020 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 03:16 PM
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So I found the metal shim behind the pad itself jammed between the dust cover and rotor making a grinding noise. I must have forced it in so hard and didn't notice it fall off? I don't see how. Anyway I changed them again. pulled hard to the right. I talked to a friend of mine and he said to wear them in. I would hard brake going very slowly around the block then drove for a bit and it went away 95%. The alignment is horrible so dropped it off today for that. Lastly I should have done both fronts but since I ran into this didn't want to destroy both. Will change on friday and see how it goes plus alignment today will check out
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Old Dec 2, 2020 | 03:56 PM
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Mike, if you only did one side of the front, without at least changing the pads on the other side at the same time, you are going to get a certain amount of pulling to one side or the other. At the very least try using the below Brake pad & Rotor Bed-in Procedure to see if that helps.

"Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly...Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors."

Good luck... GUSTO

Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures


Last edited by GUSTO14; Dec 2, 2020 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by GUSTO14
Mike, if you only did one side of the front, without at least changing the pads on the other side at the same time, you are going to get a certain amount of pulling to one side or the other. At the very least try using the below Brake pad & Rotor Bed-in Procedure to see if that helps.

"Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly...Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors."

Good luck... GUSTO

Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures

Excellent thanks. This friday I get a new set of pads and caliper piston tool to hold it back so i can do both. I did a pretty good job on redoing my vette including timing chain with the help of everyone but I just don't grasp brakes/steering very well. Thanks!!!
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