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I have completed all the part replacements and now prepping to bleed brakes with pressure bleeder. I have read as much as I can find on the subject but still have two questions I hope someone can help me with.
1- when pressure bleeding with a pump do I still have to bench bleed my new M/C ?
2- “. raise the front higher than rear?
I have completed all the part replacements and now prepping to bleed brakes with pressure bleeder. I have read as much as I can find on the subject but still have two questions I hope someone can help me with.
1- when pressure bleeding with a pump do I still have to bench bleed my new M/C ?
2- “. raise the front higher than rear?
1. The MC must be bench bled first, and there are multiple YouTube videos to help you do it correctly. For example, you want to limit the amount you push in the cylinder. I personally prefer plugging the ports (to the distribution block) vs. installing hoses and having to route them back into the MC.
2. I've never had to do this, but have heard it helps.
Also, when you're done pressure bleeding, be sure to place old rags around and under the MC. When releasing the adapter from the top of the MC, fluid can spill and make a mess..
If you have a completely empty system you DO NOT need to bench bleed the M/C!!!
Bench bleeding keeps from putting air into the lines- if the lines are empty- it doesn't matter.
Plus you will not be dripping brake fluid all over trying to install one with fluid in it.
FIRST
I have a cheapy vacuum pump- I connected it to the front line off the MC first- and made sure it would hold a vacuum before finding brake fluid leaks.
Was able to pull up to almost 25 in/hg and it held for 10 - 15 minutes
Then did the same with the rear line.
Also went around to each bleeder valve when it was holding a vacuum and opened the valve- I head a hiss- and it was good to go!!!
Here is a GREAT video- did exactly how he did it and I had a completely bled brakes in about an hour or so.
I disagree. The master does not care if the brakelines, calipers are full of fluid or not. The master does care if bubbles are trapped inside the piston bores.
The tilting of the MC while forcing the piston on a bench is a whole lot easier than jacking up the car to tilt the MC. Takes just a few minutes to remove MC and put it in a vise.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 2, 2020 at 03:27 PM.
I disagree. The master does not care if the brakelines, calipers are full of fluid or not. The master does care if bubbles are trapped inside the piston bores. Takes just a few minutes to remove MC and put it in a vise.
Did you watch the video?
I've done a lot of brakes in my day-However- that guy does it for a living....
Taking my Master Cylinder in and out takes way more than a couple minutes- and it's polished - definitely didn't wanna put it in a vice nor spill brake fluid on my detailed engine compartment.
I have always heard to "Bench bleed"- so I did a little research- and it is really not needed using this guy's system - I filled up the Master and used a vacuum pump to pull the fluid...
Like I said- an hour later I had a completely bled the system- AND I followed fellow forum member "ignatz" to unbolt the rear caliper to raise the bleeder valve above the piston.
Richard, you are talking a whole different ball game. Wilwood MC with bleeders and Wilwood calipers with bleeders at different angles.
No comparison to GM brake system.
A C3 master cylinder can be removed from the booster in two minutes flat. Two mounting nuts, two brake lines.
Okay. All is good now. Short little test drive as I am not insured until spring. Pedal does depress when engine starts, fairly sensitive pedal responsiveness. When I really climb on them there is a lockup on one tire. It was a bit frosty on the road so maybe not really an issue. The pedal does depress about 1-2” when I really push hard. I spent a long time on the bleed but after I’ve had a chance to drive I will re visit the bleed. I located the light switch ( previously done work by others included trashing the proportioning valve which I have replaced) but it is a bit deformed so I’ll try to locate a new one. Other than that I think the brakes are good. A satisfying project. Thanks for the advice.
If you do end up buying another Prop Valve, make sure its for your exact yr. During the C3 lifespan, that design was changed on the warning switch. You will have trouble getting your wire hooked up correctly if its a general / one size fits all unit.
If you do end up buying another Prop Valve, make sure its for your exact yr. During the C3 lifespan, that design was changed on the warning switch. You will have trouble getting your wire hooked up correctly if its a general / one size fits all unit.
oh. Already installed a new one from Summit. I’ll do a little research and if I need to wire in a different one I’ll do that.
Pressure bleeding brakes
