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New Dewitt Rad Leaking

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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 10:23 AM
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Default New Dewitt Rad Leaking

Been using copper/brass OEM style radiators but after the last one lasted only 18 months I decided to make the jump to a Dewitt aluminum. Got the generic/universal one sold through Zip. Been chasing a leak from under the filler neck area since install. After a new overflow hose and two new clamps it's become apparent that the leak is from the nipple for the overflow hose where it is pressed into the filler neck.
So much for Dewitt made in USA quality.
Exploring whether I have any option other than pulling the radiator and returning it. Only thing I can think of it to smear some type of sealant around the fitting on the inside of the filler neck. Any suggestions as to a sealant which might work? Any other ideas for stopping the leak?


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Dec 3, 2020, 12:09 PM
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You cannot solder aluminum, so do not try that. What works great for this is the two part epoxy you can buy just about anywhere. Comes in the double syringe configuration. Clean that area inside the filler neck around the tube with a stainless wire brush and/or scotch-bright pad. You do not need to pile a bunch on, less is more. It should take no more than two drops, work it into the seam, and wipe the excess off with your finger tip. Never leak again.
Old Dec 3, 2020 | 10:39 AM
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Every company makes the occasional mistake. Why not call Dewitt and see what they can do for you?

If you don't want to deal with Dewitt, pull the radiator and have a local shop solder it up. Do the repair right and do it once.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 11:07 AM
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Id just sodder it as said above its simple enough. Sure DeWitts will take care of you but the hassle and $ of shipping...

Had a pinhole leak in mine from a few yrs ago...if finally corroded itself shut...few yrs later doesnt leak.
DeWitts offered to take care of it but at the time was immobile so I left it.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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You cannot solder aluminum, so do not try that. What works great for this is the two part epoxy you can buy just about anywhere. Comes in the double syringe configuration. Clean that area inside the filler neck around the tube with a stainless wire brush and/or scotch-bright pad. You do not need to pile a bunch on, less is more. It should take no more than two drops, work it into the seam, and wipe the excess off with your finger tip. Never leak again.
Old Dec 3, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
You cannot solder aluminum, so do not try that. What works great for this is the two part epoxy you can buy just about anywhere. Comes in the double syringe configuration. Clean that area inside the filler neck around the tube with a stainless wire brush and/or scotch-bright pad. You do not need to pile a bunch on, less is more. It should take no more than two drops, work it into the seam, and wipe the excess off with your finger tip. Never leak again.
i did this.. tom called me back.. done no leaks..had a lot going on..radiator leaks heater core..took a while to figure out it was there as it is not under pressure just dripped when hot and expands..hose bad..etc..etc.. good on you for finding so fast..
used toothpick to mix and drop around lip
#42 post
Coolant concern question 79 L82 m - Page 3 - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

Last edited by interpon; Dec 3, 2020 at 02:19 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
You cannot solder aluminum, so do not try that. What works great for this is the two part epoxy you can buy just about anywhere. Comes in the double syringe configuration. Clean that area inside the filler neck around the tube with a stainless wire brush and/or scotch-bright pad. You do not need to pile a bunch on, less is more. It should take no more than two drops, work it into the seam, and wipe the excess off with your finger tip. Never leak again.
I was thinking I'd try Permatex Ultra Blue rtv sealant.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 04:53 PM
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I wouldn't wast my time with silicone sealant Rev.
It will degrade overtime and installing and removing the cap can scrape the sides and bits and pieces will fall into the tank.
I ended up using JB weld 2 part black/white epoxy on mine 15 years or more ago.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by revitup
I was thinking I'd try Permatex Ultra Blue rtv sealant.
i can tell you clear 20 minute (2 part) epoxy has been working since repair..and invisible..(only 1.5 years)

Last edited by interpon; Dec 3, 2020 at 05:04 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by revitup
I was thinking I'd try Permatex Ultra Blue rtv sealant.
Don't
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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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So this is available at my local Ace hardware. Is this what y'all are recommending?



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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 05:57 PM
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That one's okay but it's about 10,000x more epoxy than you need. They make one in the syringe for $5 or this one from Loctite


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Old Dec 3, 2020 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks to all for the help.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 11:43 AM
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Default Update

I installed the same radiator two months ago it leaked in the same place

Problem solved
used a toothpick while still warm seeps into flare and is flush no scraping of cap
No leak since
THIS FIX DID NOT STAND UP TO THE HEAT

Last edited by 6cs68; Apr 4, 2021 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 01:02 PM
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I have a DeWitts as well and only because I couldn't get a Ron Davis rad in a timely manner directly from them when I needed it and they are even local to me. Mine hasn't leaked, (knock on wood) but it seems that this is a common issue. You would think that this would be addressed at the factory while being assembled, guess not. Another vote for a "quality" product made in USA.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
I have a DeWitts as well and only because I couldn't get a Ron Davis rad in a timely manner directly from them when I needed it and they are even local to me. Mine hasn't leaked, (knock on wood) but it seems that this is a common issue. You would think that this would be addressed at the factory while being assembled, guess not. Another vote for a "quality" product made in USA.
Thanks for the vote, I will pass this on to the new management as well as this issue of overflow tubes. The problem isn't as common as you would think thought. DeWitts purchases thousands of filler necks per year and 2-3 leak reports is very low.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Thanks for the vote, I will pass this on to the new management as well as this issue of overflow tubes. The problem isn't as common as you would think thought. DeWitts purchases thousands of filler necks per year and 2-3 leak reports is very low.
Thanks, BUT if you know anything about Six Sigma, you would also know that what you are saying about your product defects is unacceptable...jus sayin'. Read up on Six Sigma. Motorola created the manufacturing quality control concept and I worked for Moto when in semiconductor.
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Old Dec 4, 2020 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
Thanks, BUT if you know anything about Six Sigma, you would also know that what you are saying about your product defects is unacceptable...jus sayin'. Read up on Six Sigma. Motorola created the manufacturing quality control concept and I worked for Moto when in semiconductor.
Agreed. This will NOT get swept under the rug. I am familiar with Six Sigma, so I do understand the goal. DeWitts choose to go with ISO 9001 and was successful in gaining this award level.

ISO Notice Here

Last edited by Tom DeWitt; Dec 4, 2020 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 04:05 PM
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Tom, I bought the DeWitt direct fit radiator 2 months ago. I would have been extremely upset if I paid several hundred dollars extra for a DeWitt and it leaked. That being said, is the Zip supplied radiator a Dewitt or is it built to Zip's standards by Dewitt? I considered the Zip radiator, but it didn't look the same and I didn't want to hassle with making it fit.

My only complaint so far is the direct fit radiator wasn't as wide as the stock radiator and my new rubbers left the radiator extremely loose. I had to buy more new rubbers which I think should have been supplied by DeWitt or at least shown as being needed.
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2mnyvets
T That being said, is the Zip supplied radiator a Dewitt or is it built to Zip's standards by Dewitt?.
It's basically both. DeWitts makes this radiator for Zip with the same process as the standard unit. The biggest difference between the DeWitts Direct Fit and the Zip unit is the upper and lower channels. The DeWitts radiator has a custom extruded GM hat channels to provide more of an original look. The Zip unit has a standard (flat) rectangular channel. Cost saving measures like robot welding end tanks and volume production make this model more affordable but at the end of the day, the performance and size is the same.
A side note on the actual leak problem....this is not a core leak. The leak is coming from the filler neck overflow tube and depending on the model, this connection may be directed to the ground. The models that use a non-pressurized plastic recovery tank is where a leak free joint is required. Here the expanded fluid is pushed into the recovery tank and pulled back in when it cools down. The joint might have a few drops fall when the fluid is flowing back and forth and that's why epoxy works so well to fix it. I am not trying to minimize the issue, just explaining it so people understand what the issue is.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 01:49 PM
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"The joint might have a few drops fall when the fluid is flowing back and forth"
Actually, it leaks continually until the filler neck is empty (and also all or part of the overflow hose is empty, depending how it is routed to the overflow tank), not just when fluid is flowing. With the car off and cool, I can watch fluid flow down the outside of the radiator tank beneath the filler neck and puddle under the car.

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