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I bought a 72 convertible in August and finally getting my hands dirty and tackling two projects at once, the other in a Vintage Air install. I figured I need to take most of the dash out for that, so might as well do it just once. That project is in a separate thread. The car was built with a deluxe interior. At some point, the fuzzy carpet was replaced with the standard loop carpet. I actually prefer that carpet and don’t care for the fake wood grain on the trim. So, other than leather seats, it will have the standard interior. I already did the passenger door prior to starting this thread and taking pictures. On both doors, the sheet metal that the lower rear window track bolts into rusted through. The simple, and hopefully correct fix used was a larger washer. I also had to replace the handle/lock mechanism on the driver door as the part that connects the handle was almost gone.
I’ll be post more pics and maybe a question or two as I work through the project.
The door panel went on without any major issues. Lining the door pull screws up is a PITA. If there is a trick to installing the door unlock pull on the mechanism, I’d love to hear it. I did give all the door locking mechanisms a good spray of grease before sealing it all up.
Finally back at the interior. After some issues with the parts from Vintage Air and getting more done under the hood with that install, I went back to start taking apart the interior for the refresh and the VA install. So far, most came apart easily. Behind the dash so far, not too much rust. I am shocked at the amount of dust and dirt. I suspect the car will have a performance upgrade with the weight loss on the clean up. Look at the dirt!! This is under the center console next to the shifter. It is always such a mess at this point. Look at all that dust!! C3s are prone to rust in this area. There is a little surface rust. I’ll sand that off and repaint.
Been there, done that! Does the original radio work? A good time to check your flasher, and that old school diode thingy. Be careful with the center gauge frame, it is easy to break.
Thanx for the tips. I assume the flasher is the thing with the fins on the sides and the round thing in the middle. I know, real technical LOL. I just got the car in August and the radio has not worked. I don’t know for sure if it is an electrical issue or if the radio itself is bad. I did buy a Custom Auto Sound radio to replace this one with. I will hook the old one up to a direct power source to see if it does work. In any event, it will be going into the saved parts box along with the original clock. I’m replacing that with a quartz movement.
the thing with the fins on the sides and the round thing in the middle.
No, that's the front speaker amplifier (fins are heat sink, round things are the power transistors).
Also, someone on here (quite some time ago) came up with a much easier method of attaching the center upright to the console. Instead of using the OEM method of putting the nuts on the stud sticking out (virtually impossible to see, or do!).
Let us know if you come across that, or find a better way of doing that!
The flasher is the light blue round plastic cup thing. If you would like to fix the original radio, start with the antenna coax cable. Do a continuity test from the radio plug to the antenna at the back of the car. Check that the connection at the antenna is correct and the ground is connected. Make sure it isn't shorting out also. You probably need the coax for the new radio if you don't use the old radio anyway. When I did mine I found the plug that went into the radio wasn't making contact. At the end of the plug there is a little capacitor thing inside the coax that the wire broke off of. I just removed the cap and hooked it up direct, my original AM FM radio works now. When I have more time I am going to reinstall the capacitor thingy.
Also check the angle that the coax is plugged into your radio.
Got some good garage time today and finished the tear down. Given all the screws and wires, I need to keep my memory. No drinking for a while. LOL. After 49 years, there is quite a bit of dirt/dust built up behind the dash. I’m also getting a good look at the A pillars. For those who are new to C3s, they are very prone to rust. This car is no different. Most of the rust is just surface. I’ll be cleaning that up and painting with some rustoleum. Before I do that, I’ll be picking up my mess and cleaning everything to put it all back together. I ordered a interior lightbulb kit from Corvette Central and plan on replacing all the bulbs, along with the flasher. Hope I can remember/figure out how it all goes back together. Yes, I do have an assembly manual. Just a little dirty. Lol
No, that's the front speaker amplifier (fins are heat sink, round things are the power transistors).
Also, someone on here (quite some time ago) came up with a much easier method of attaching the center upright to the console. Instead of using the OEM method of putting the nuts on the stud sticking out (virtually impossible to see, or do!).
Let us know if you come across that, or find a better way of doing that!
Best of luck!
Paul
I was just taking a break from some interior upgrades and settled down for some recreational reading when I come across your comment Paul. You may possibly be remembering my post. I mod'd the attachment points with couplers and Allen screws. Here's the backside of the two clusters mated. I wouldn't call it easy but it's way better than freaking impossible. Many people just chose to leave the two parts unattached.
I was just taking a break from some interior upgrades and settled down for some recreational reading when I come across your comment Paul. You may possibly be remembering my post. I mod'd the attachment points with couplers and Allen screws. Here's the backside of the two clusters mated. I wouldn't call it easy but it's way better than freaking impossible. Many people just chose to leave the two parts unattached.
Yes!! Thanks ignatz! That's exactly what I was looking for!
(soon I'll likely do something very similar!)
WOW.... I always take lots of pictures when removing that much stuff. I was there, removing the steering wheel helps get around in the tight cabin. Might be a good time to get some interior paint and paint the side panels, center console, shift panel ETC. Here is the real trick, will your cigarette lighter work when your done. I use it for my phone charger.
Back to work on the interior. Much cleaning, scraping and painting done to clean up the birdcage. There was rust, but not so much that I’m worried. I’m also adding speakers to the kick plate, 4x6. With my handy work, I’m sure the folks in the sheet metal union have never felt more secure in their jobs. Posting in a few the next mess I found.
New speakers for both dash and kick plate. For my friends in the Sheet Metal Union, I think their jobs are safe with this skill level.
Back to work on the interior. Much cleaning, scraping and painting done to clean up the birdcage. There was rust, but not so much that I’m worried. I’m also adding speakers to the kick plate, 4x6. With my handy work, I’m sure the folks in the sheet metal union have never felt more secure in their jobs. Posting in a few the next mess I found.
New speakers for both dash and kick plate. Where did you get that adapter plate?? I don't think mine has anything like that.
For my friends in the Sheet Metal Union, I think their jobs are safe with this skill level.
Of course while I’m at the interior, I’m replacing the carpet. I knew the seat belts did not work, I was not expecting this, belts and guides totally rusted out!! I will also be adding the metallic sound/heat shield.
Humm, any really good restoration guys out there I don’t think these guides can be saved. Had to drill out the bolt and going to replace the plate underneath
Dave, that birdcage rust is much more than surface rust, but I see that you have treated it on the outside. If you haven’t already, it is worth using something like Eastwood internal frame coating to get at the inside which is where most rust hides.
Love your projects and thanks for all the pictures!
It has been a while since I posted on my interior restoration. I got a bit side tracked when I decided to rebuild the shifter. While under the car removing the shifter I noticed leaks from both the back end of the transmission and front end of the differential. Fast forward a few months and I now have new seals on both along with the main seal in the engine, new clutch, and rear suspension. It was a never ending “while I’m here”.
Anyway, I worked on the dash the last few days. The passenger side is all new. Although getting the map pocket in was a PIA. The drivers side is mostly new other than the gauges. It is amazing to me how much just replacing the lens does. That is a must do for anyone in their dash.
Second of two simultaneous projects-Interior
