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I am posting this in regards to never being able to find an answer. Kind of step by step on regulator rebuild. I assume the proper tension/wraps/install of reg. Spring. I DONT KNOW IF ITS RITE! but it seems correct. Pics are numbers 1-4 hope it’s rite and hope it helps. This is for my 1979 l48 pwr windows.
I sand blasted the whole thing once I got it apart. I used a trim tool to pop the old rollers off and left the shafts in place. I seen in another post how the replacement rollers shafts are longer then the originals. So I will get a couple 3 packs of gm rollers from O’reillys auto store pop the rollers off then put them on the orig. shafts. I have tested this on the bench seems to work. When I was done I just shot grey primer on it. Let me know if this is right or if it helps. P.s. I didn’t have the money to buy 2 new regulators.
On pic 4 I removed the square rivet that holds the arms. It was very sloppy so I was able to dolly the joint and then tig weld the end. With it clamped in vice I pushed the long arm clockwise to this position. Then put spring on (note center of spring bend start down towards motor)
With sprin on I rotated counter clock wise to catch spring tab. (Note Saftey bolt hole) you’ll need it.
Ok here’s the million dollar question. I kept rotating ccw until the Saftey bolt hole lines up with gear. Install a bolt. Now with that said I rotated about 1/2 to 3/4 turn ccw. With a hand on the arm and no bolt there is unwind pressure trying to take arm clockwise. I just don’t think I could get a full turn on the spring. Note how tight it is in pic.
This opposite side. I replaced the gear and the rivet and the spring rivet in center and for tab. The tab rivet and the just rivet were easy enough to remove and reinstall and just mashed down with hammer. Now the center rivet that holds the spring ( never gots great answer on setting it) so I happen to have a tig machine so I tig welded it. I don’t know if heating it to cherry red and attempting to mash/buck it is doable?
I just re-did the springs on my '80, I preloaded them 1/2 turn just like you did. Only I did it with them in the doors, don't recommend doing it that way. Made a tool to wind them. 1/2 turn seems to work well, go up and down nice.
I put a half turn on mine when I did it the first time. Had a problem with the window dropping with every bump in the road. Went back and added another half turn, but I still have a problem with the window dropping. Would love to hear suggestions. I doubt if I could get another half turn on the spring.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by John Vance
I am posting this in regards to never being able to find an answer. Kind of step by step on regulator rebuild. I assume the proper tension/wraps/install of reg. Spring. I DONT KNOW IF ITS RITE! but it seems correct. Pics are numbers 1-4 hope it’s rite and hope it helps. This is for my 1979 l48 pwr windows.
I sand blasted the whole thing once I got it apart. I used a trim tool to pop the old rollers off and left the shafts in place. I seen in another post how the replacement rollers shafts are longer then the originals. So I will get a couple 3 packs of gm rollers from O’reillys auto store pop the rollers off then put them on the orig. shafts. I have tested this on the bench seems to work.
Ok here’s the million dollar question. I kept rotating ccw until the Saftey bolt hole lines up with gear. Install a bolt. Now with that said I rotated about 1/2 to 3/4 turn ccw. With a hand on the arm and no bolt there is unwind pressure trying to take arm clockwise. I just don’t think I could get a full turn on the spring. Note how tight it is in pic.
The half-turn to the left is all you need, usually, you need a helper to turn CCWand hold the left end in place against the old spring.
Good job and good photos!
I put a half turn on mine when I did it the first time. Had a problem with the window dropping with every bump in the road. Went back and added another half turn, but I still have a problem with the window dropping. Would love to hear suggestions. I doubt if I could get another half turn on the spring.
well it’s about 1/2 to 3/4 turn on spring load. As for window dropping on bumps. Mine was doing similar I would lower and stop midstream and it fell down alittle every time. I put new gear new rivets and pins new spring new rollers and made sure the whole mechanism was tight. Rollers moved freely. I have to geuss out of all that the center rivet for spring would be problem. Mine was worn to shape of hour glass ( on the frame mechism) so I replaced the rivet and I filled the area with metal tugging it in. I had every thing clamped /sgaure to world/ snugged but not to tight before welding. The hour glass shap was letting it slopp down
Thanks. That’s the first suggestion I’ve had and I’ll give it a try. Which rivet are you referring to?
DRwet
sorry i just seen this , i was talking about the rivet that is in the center that the spring starts on. mine was shaped like an hour glass when i pulled it out. thats when i decided to replace with the new one and tig welded it in. i had to fill the corners cause the new rivet had touch play. i could not find a replacement rivet for the (scissors)arm so i just heated it up and tried to pound it flatter. Hope it helps . Let me know
C3 window regulator spring tension rebuild
