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For anyone whos changed the cam in their c3 without pulling the engine, I pulled the radiator, can I swap cams without pulling the hood and and ac condenser? It looks like it will be close but possibly doable? planning on going to a retro roller howards cam from my voodoo 262 cam.
I have swapped small block cams by just pulling radiator (no AC). Cam would just clear hood with hood still installed. With AC, you can probably pull hood and move condenser far enough forward to pull cam.
With big block, expect to have to pull everything.
removing and reinstalling the hood is so easy. can't imagine why you would try to work around it. when I did the cam in my 77, I removed the condenser.
No need to remove A/C condenser. There is enough slack in the lines to allow it to move forward. However, the brackets holding it must be removed, four bolts.
Then, using a piece of wood, jamb that between brackets and core support.
Get a helper to remove the hood and store it against a wall, cowl side down on the floor. Makes things so much easier. Take a black Sharpie and trace the hinges before hood removal. Each of you should have a socket & ratchet. Blankets on the fenders. Jamb a broom handle between firewall & hood. It helps.
After you get your timing chain & cam sprocket off, put the cam sprocket back on with one bolt. Use that sprocket as a handle for leverage when pulling the cam. As the sprocket nears the A/C condenser you can remove the sprocket.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 5, 2021 at 07:37 AM.
removing and reinstalling the hood is so easy. can't imagine why you would try to work around it. when I did the cam in my 77, I removed the condenser.
Ive had the hood off multiple times Its an aftermarket and I found it can be a bit of a pain getting everything lined up just right when reinstalling. especially when I have to get help to remove and reinstall it. I'm also just trying to avoid unnecessary additional work is all. I havent had a reason to remove it thus far so I figured why do it now unless theres a reason I need to. But it sounds like the access to the front will be useful anyway when pulling the cam.
It is a small block.
I also plan to try installing the electric fan/shroud setup I bought to put in the car when I built the engine but didnt install at the last minute due to lack of patience at the time.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 5, 2021 at 10:44 AM.
If your hood alignment is spot-on right now, it will be spot-on when reinstalling later, thanks the felt pen tracing marks.
If you have an automatic, this is a great time to add a small tranny cooler with the hood off. You don't have to hook-up the lines now, just mount the cooler, route the hoses for a later time. A thin 3/4" cooler will fit right in front and onto the A/C condenser vertically..
If your hood alignment is spot-on right now, it will be spot-on when reinstalling later, thanks the felt pen tracing marks.
If you have an automatic, this is a great time to add a small tranny cooler with the hood off. You don't have to hook-up the lines now, just mount the cooler, route the hoses for a later time. A thin 3/4" cooler will fit right in front and onto the A/C condenser vertically..
My opinion on the trans cooler is that if you are not towing or road racing, there is no need for an external cooler. Millions of cars and trucks make it just fine with the factory set up. You will hear other opinions here, but facts are facts.
Heat is the number one destroyer of transmissions. GM thought that the bottom of the radiator would be adequate enough for cooling of the trans. GM did not figure the C3s engine compartment is one of the hottest known to man with very little air flow.
I am just saying that a small cooler is a Godsend for the awful temperatures that the tranny has to endure. And there are millions of vehicles on the road right now with PS coolers and trans coolers that do not even have a trailer hitch.
Ironically, the day I installed my trans cooler, the water temps dropped by 15*. Win-win.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 6, 2021 at 08:33 PM.
I have that same cam on a 112* LS. Barely loped in a 400 sbc and more torque than I could hook. Aside from lift it isn’t that different from your 262 voodoo, which is a nice street cam.
I have that same cam on a 112* LS. Barely loped in a 400 sbc and more torque than I could hook. Aside from lift it isn’t that different from your 262 voodoo, which is a nice street cam.
Thanks, I know they are very similar. I also know the 112 version will have a smoother idle than the 110 version. I have 112 now with the voodoo. I'm still researching but I may actually go with this similar cam since I found the howards retro lifters for about $215 shipped on rock auto.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-12-422-8
The cam software show a decent bump in both torque and HP with either the howards or comp cam which have almost identical performance numbers in Dyno2000
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 10, 2021 at 12:26 PM.