my harmonic connector . Not sure why of the splices

 

You'd think a brand new harness woudn't have any crimp splices. I know that harness didn't leave Lectric Limited's factory with electrical tape insulating a bare wire.

 

I agree. Im just trying to see if anyone can give me the logic behind the splice. I can clean it up and put it back to original configuration. What keeps racking my mind is that I saw the brakes and turn signals work when they delivered the car. These spices look like a third grade art project certainly not the job of a professional.

 

I'm also looking for input on having two flashers. Do they really separate turn signal flashers and hazard lights? Was this to allow the alarm to flash the lights when activated? Is the passenger side one still needed I guess is my bottom line question.

 

You need two flashers if you want the hazard lights to work properly. If you only want the turn signals to work, you only need one flasher (bottom right). Did you try both bases (if you got the one I recommended) or swapping the terminals with short wires?

Hopefully it is something simple, like the flasher that was installed failed, and the new one is installed incorrectly. I'd ask the shop about that splice, though.

 

Thanks for explaining the two flashers. It makes sense. As far as asking the shop about the splice the guy that did it no longer works there. It bothers me greatly when I come across a professional shop that can't do better than me who is not a restoration shop owner. When i trace the wires out it almost seems like he was trying to discontinue one of them. Unless someone can tell me why he would have wired them this way I will end up putting them back to original and they will look better than this hack job.
As far as the bases are concerned I have not yet tried the spade and wire swap. I noticed on the bottom of the flasher I removed that it had a x and a y for the different terminals that was the same as the new ones. So I thought I would try just installing them hoping they had fixed the issue. No such luckI had already bought these when you recommended the swappable bases. I will make some wires as you suggested after I fix the hack job on the harmonic connector.

 

The brown and purple wires are for the hazard and turn flashers ( they are separate).

That's exactly where I thought the problem was-

My thoughts- not all flashers are created equal- maybe the guys at the shop didn't realize the flasher was the wrong polarity and chopped up the wires- my guess-

So - all bets are off after seeing the chopped wires- I'd get the solid state flasher with a ground wire- as those are not polarity specific.

AND I'd talk to the shop- that's some BS work...and for the damage to your new harness and making the car right.

 

Thanks Richard. I've been working on this car for 10 years. I have tried to buy the best products to put this car together. I have hundreds of thousands of hours invested in this car. My biggest struggle with this project has been with shops that I must have to complete the parts of this project that I can't do. The shops I used I had researched and checked references on and still the outcome was a lot of BS. At one point I even had to get a attorney involved to get my car back. I am now a little reluctant to let anyone work on this car if it requires leaving it with them. I have learned a lot in this process and not being in a hurry has been the biggest lesson. I will continue to ask questions on here and thanks to good people that are willing to share their experiences I will have a road map. Tomorrow I will go back out to the garage complete a few more test and repairs and hopefully when i get to the end of this journey I will have a beautiful useable car.

 

^ This has been the reason I have struggled to learn to do it all myself thus far when it comes to my car. Its like the old "if you want it done right" saying.. Plus down the road, if theres a problem I know exactly what has and hasn't been done... At least better than some shop where the guy that did the work on my car doesnt work there no more..

 

Thanks Auggie I am off to the garage wish me luck.

 

Ok gentleman. This is what I have figured out today.
After fixing the hack job on my harmonic connector I verified that I do in fact have 12v where Chevrolet put it on the two flasher locations. This is of course opposite of where the flashers want it but at least we have verified power I did make the little wire leads with the spade tips and reversed it on the flasher. I still have no turn signals and when I push the hazard light switch in it pops back out. which leads me to believe the issue is in the turn signal or hazard switch.
Although I did have the turn signal switch and hazard light switch replaced MAYBE something has burned out up there. I don't look forward to tearing the steering column apart again but if this is where the problem is I may have to.
In the meantime The spade wire combo didn't want to stay in place as needed for consistent use.
I went ahead and ordered the United flashers with the swappable bases and ground wires since I can't seem to find just the swappable bases.
Two thoughts
1. Whoever the heck decided putting the fuse panel up under the dash was a good idea should be shot. And then putting the flashers up on top of that #$^^%$% Not nice for us middle age fat guys.
2. Why did GM decide to reverse polarity on their flashers... again @@##$^$#
Thanks again for all the help I will keep you posted on my progress.
Happy Sunday

 

oh that’s nothing as you already know. What car manufacturer sells a vehicle where the headlight switch electrical connector actually melts because it cannot handle the current. I always say that apart from their staggering design these cars are pathetic as far as build quality and the use of bad design and quality goes. I am no supporter of keeping these things as per GM, far better to modify as necessary to make it work. I ended up putting relays into the headlight circuit to give relief to the switch. Good luck with your car.

 

Best explanation on how to do a proper LED conversion is on headlightrevolution.com
The posted videos are excellent. I’d call their tech support line, explain what you need and they’ll set you up proper. Cost will be about 3x what you’ll find on superbrightleds. LED technology updates more often than iPhones. LED’s from a few years ago aren’t made anymore! Proper resistors are now built-in. Other refinements include thermal resistors to compensate for heat build up, better functionality with flashers and compatibility with dimmers. Lumen ratings and color vary widely. AIM will have OEM bulbs listed by candle power (1 CP equals 12.57 lumens).
9 years ago I melted the bulb sockets in the dash with LED’s. Installing all new high quality (RCA or Sylvania) OEM bulbs made the dash much brighter than the very old bulbs I got the car with.
Charlie

 

Thanks Charlie
I'll check into Headlight Revolution. They look nice.
I have already upgraded the dash lights with Dakota Digital Gauges which have their own lights. After I get this brake and turn signal issue fixed I will be replacing the overhead light which for some reason isn't working at all right now.

 

So as it turns out Richard 454 was spot on with the United Pacific flashers being the solution. After installing them and the voltage regulators on the tail lights the turn signal and brake lights work. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this cause.

 

That's great- glad I was able to help!!!