Front Wheel Bearing Stiff After Replacement
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Front Wheel Bearing Stiff After Replacement
Just replaced my front wheel bearing. Followed the procedure in the shop manual correctly but the hub was very stiff to spin after. It feels very smooth, no play or noise, just doesn't spin freely like before. Thought I messed something up so took it back apart, packed more grease in case that was the issue and went through the seating procedure again and same thing. Is it ok for them to be this stiff after replacement or have I messed something up? Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease if it makes a difference
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Tightened to 12 lbs, spun the hub for a bit, then backed it off and hand tightened like the manual said to. I thought maybe I'd tightened it too much so I backed it off so it wasn't putting any pressure on the hub at all and still felt the same.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 312
Likes: 64
From: Henry county ohio
If you replaced the grease seal, the hub will have some rotational resistance from the new seal, due to friction from the lip tension.
As mentioned, you should replace the bearing cone and race as a set.
Quality bearings are important.
Timkens are preferred but, imported parts are the most common available anymore, or so it seems.
Buy a good name brand part, and you should be ok.
Good luck.
Jeff
As mentioned, you should replace the bearing cone and race as a set.
Quality bearings are important.
Timkens are preferred but, imported parts are the most common available anymore, or so it seems.
Buy a good name brand part, and you should be ok.
Good luck.
Jeff
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
How tight is too tight is way too subjective for an internet forum. Maybe mount the tire and give it a firm spin... how far does it rotate after letting go? Does it stop before one revolution? That sounds too tight. One plus maybe a half more revolutions is what I'd expect. If you got nearly a full spin, I'd drive it a short bit to see how it seats and breaks in. You won't do any damage in this scenario. New bearings definitely have higher friction than broken in or worn ones. Also, be careful with more and more grease - more is not better in this case. Grease helps dissipate heat and too much has insulating properties.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jan 31, 2021 at 09:11 PM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 1,824
From: Apple Valley, MN
63-68 front wheel bearings are different than 69-82. Be sure to order the correct numbers.
I get my Timkens from Denny’s Driveshaft. Part numbers for the 69-82 are SET 3 and SET 5. $10.50 and $11.50 each.
I get my Timkens from Denny’s Driveshaft. Part numbers for the 69-82 are SET 3 and SET 5. $10.50 and $11.50 each.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I got the Timken set. Pulled the hubs back apart and put the new races in. Still pretty stiff but maybe not bad. Just spinning the rotor/hub the old ones would go 2+ full rotations the new ones are only going about 1/2 a rotation before stopping. I'll put the wheels on tomorrow and see if I'm getting 1 or more rotations.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
you must replace the bearing and race together...if you drive out old race, be sure to de-burr the seat afterwards...new seal too... you've inadvertently created to different angles that are not parallel and it will not live long...likely will develope slop/play quickly when placed in use...in addition to heat. Use the best parts you can get...NAPA is often a good source. Ask for the "good stuff".