Conflicting breakin advice
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Conflicting breakin advice
I've always driven mine a few hundred or a thousand miles before driving them hard. But they were engines that I built with my own two hands and four eyes :cheers: -- and I always had good fortune too; never had one come apart.
Now this stroker is different - I paid somebody *REAL* good money to build it. It's been blueprinted right down to the clearances in the oil pump and the shop owner (who is the one who built my engine) tells me that with a proplerly blueprinted engine there is no real breakin procedure other than that of the cam.
His advice is to follow initial cam breakin procedure, drop the oil and filter, then run it 3,000 miles before another oil change. And drive the heck out of it if I want. He says I should run the car on the Dyno right after we break in the cam and not be afraid of anything.
So even though the breakin procedure Q has been asked and answered so many times, I'd like to know about an engine that has been built by hand and blueprinted in a controlled environment. As per my other post, the engine was delivered yesterday with all ports and holes plugged or taped, and it's full of oil - also has been primed.
I'm still getting over the cost of doing it this way so I'm anxious!
Now this stroker is different - I paid somebody *REAL* good money to build it. It's been blueprinted right down to the clearances in the oil pump and the shop owner (who is the one who built my engine) tells me that with a proplerly blueprinted engine there is no real breakin procedure other than that of the cam.
His advice is to follow initial cam breakin procedure, drop the oil and filter, then run it 3,000 miles before another oil change. And drive the heck out of it if I want. He says I should run the car on the Dyno right after we break in the cam and not be afraid of anything.
So even though the breakin procedure Q has been asked and answered so many times, I'd like to know about an engine that has been built by hand and blueprinted in a controlled environment. As per my other post, the engine was delivered yesterday with all ports and holes plugged or taped, and it's full of oil - also has been primed.
I'm still getting over the cost of doing it this way so I'm anxious!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (SanDiegoPaul)
I worked for an engine builder for years and his policy was to build them loose because he had to warrant the engines and customers could leave his shop , drive around the corner and start pounding on it so a loose engine would not seize where if you built them tight they would.
I personally build them on the tight side then spend the time breaking it in.
I personally build them on the tight side then spend the time breaking it in.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Grandin Florida
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (SanDiegoPaul)
Paul, I have a 75 vette and I am thinking VERY SERIOUS of installing a 383 in it, Where did you purchase your engine from? Did you check out any of the engines on E-Bay? Is that where you purchased yours from?. I would like to know what kind of problems you encounter after your installation. Did you go with a higher stall converter? ( if applies) What kind of cam specs did you get and what other mods are you doing with this application? Keep us informed on your project. Good Luck! :cheers:
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (norvalwilhelm)
his policy was to build them loose because he had to warrant the engines
That's interesting!! This shop on the other hand, has no "mileage warranty" of any kind. It's guaranteed to be assembled properly of course - and the place has a terrific reputation with local racers and street rodders. He built the engine in my bosses' 66 mustang race car and that car runs 135MPH on a southern CA road course every month. Anyone out there know Willow Springs? If so, you've probably seen that car. And at The Dyno Shop I see cars all week long with engines purchased from him because our shops are just a block apart.
So I guess I can say I trust him and his rep. :rolleyes:
For me, it's just a bit more scary because it's the first time I've ever paid somebody to build a motor for me. I've always done it myself, starting from the 283 punched to 292 with 11.5 pistons I ran in my 57 two door when I was sixteen! I bought the car when I got my learners permit and by the time I had my license I had put together the engine. Drove that thing several years before it was stolen.
:nopity
That's interesting!! This shop on the other hand, has no "mileage warranty" of any kind. It's guaranteed to be assembled properly of course - and the place has a terrific reputation with local racers and street rodders. He built the engine in my bosses' 66 mustang race car and that car runs 135MPH on a southern CA road course every month. Anyone out there know Willow Springs? If so, you've probably seen that car. And at The Dyno Shop I see cars all week long with engines purchased from him because our shops are just a block apart.
So I guess I can say I trust him and his rep. :rolleyes:
For me, it's just a bit more scary because it's the first time I've ever paid somebody to build a motor for me. I've always done it myself, starting from the 283 punched to 292 with 11.5 pistons I ran in my 57 two door when I was sixteen! I bought the car when I got my learners permit and by the time I had my license I had put together the engine. Drove that thing several years before it was stolen.
:nopity
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
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From: San Diego CA
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (SanDiegoPaul)
You can certainly fdollow his advice but I would keep this in mind - How many magazine articles have you read that featured a professionally built motor that was broke in , in the manner in which you speak, that blew up on the dyno? I can think of at least a half dozen over the years.
these were motors that were built by pros in the manner in which your engine was apparently built and yet they still went up in a cloud. It may not mean anything, but I would do what I was comfortable with - certainly you can wait a few hundred miles.
Congrats - I cant wait to hear how the dyno run comes out. :cheers:
these were motors that were built by pros in the manner in which your engine was apparently built and yet they still went up in a cloud. It may not mean anything, but I would do what I was comfortable with - certainly you can wait a few hundred miles.
Congrats - I cant wait to hear how the dyno run comes out. :cheers:
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Re: Conflicting breakin advice (fauxrs)
I only have 1200 miles on my new engine and received a 36 months or 36K miles warranty.
The engine-builder had a 500 mile written break-in policy of not exceeding 60 mph. He told me priviately it would be fine to drive it 70-75 mph as long as the speed was varied. The engine was balanced and blueprinted and built with high performance parts.
I have taken if sort of easy up till now with no hard starts and speeds to about 85 mph.
The engine-builder had a 500 mile written break-in policy of not exceeding 60 mph. He told me priviately it would be fine to drive it 70-75 mph as long as the speed was varied. The engine was balanced and blueprinted and built with high performance parts.
I have taken if sort of easy up till now with no hard starts and speeds to about 85 mph.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Living in the Hartland
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (OHSIXX)
Funny when there is a MPH limit, so I can go 65 in first? :) Seems GM states their break in instructions in rpm's.
Personally, I followed the GM break in instructions that came with my crate motor just to be on the safe side.
Personally, I followed the GM break in instructions that came with my crate motor just to be on the safe side.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,125
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From: Crescent City, CA
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (SanDiegoPaul)
Here is what Bad butt Racing Engines says.
There are a few steps that must be taken when starting a brand new engine. By far, the most critical and important thing is breaking-in the cam. Upon initial start-up, the engine MUST be run for 15 to 20 minutes at about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. This seats the lifters to the cam and vise verse. If you are using double or triple valve springs, you MUST remove the inner springs and break-in the cam using only the outer springs or you will surely end-up with a flat cam! Roller cams do not need to be broken-in, but ALL flat tappet cams must. Do NOT break-in your cam with non-detergent oil! This is old school and these days, you can't even get good non-detergent engine oil. Use a good, high grade oil like Valvoline 20w-50 or straight 30 wt., Castrol 20w-40 or Kendall. Once the cam has been broken-in, you can re-install the inner springs (if you're running them) and do all of the usual things like set the timing, adjust the carb and idle, etc. It's always a good idea to have a garden hose handy when breaking-in cams because there's usually a large air pocket in the cooling system and running an engine at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes can cause it to heat up. Just spray the radiator down while the engine is running and it will help keep things cool.
The second part of breaking-in an engine isn't really that important. I don't believe in driving under 60 MPH or keeping the revs below 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles. What I usually recommend is that after the cam is broken-in, go drive up a hill a couple of times, slowing and accelerating as you go up. This builds-up heat and puts a variable load on the engine which helps seat the rings. kitty-footin' a new engine can cause the cylinders to glaze and the rings may never seat properly. As far as revving the engine? Go for it! You don't think we build race engines and drive them for 500 or 1,000 miles before we rev them up do you? Heck no! As soon as the cam is broken-in, it's at the red line, going down the track! What you want to avoid on street engines besides kitty-footin' around is getting on the highway and going the same speed for extended periods of time. It doesn't matter if it's 40MPH or 70MPH, just don't hold it there. Instead, vary your speed, pass a few people and then slow down for a bit, and then speed back up. This varies the engine load and helps things seat-in better. Be sure to change your oil and filter after the first hundred or so miles because when an engine breaks-in, little tiny, fine particles of metal are wearing-off inside and floating around in the oil. This is all pert of the break-in process and is totally normal
http://www.badasscars.com/products.html
Hope it helps
Terry
[Modified by trw, 8:38 AM 12/10/2002]
There are a few steps that must be taken when starting a brand new engine. By far, the most critical and important thing is breaking-in the cam. Upon initial start-up, the engine MUST be run for 15 to 20 minutes at about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. This seats the lifters to the cam and vise verse. If you are using double or triple valve springs, you MUST remove the inner springs and break-in the cam using only the outer springs or you will surely end-up with a flat cam! Roller cams do not need to be broken-in, but ALL flat tappet cams must. Do NOT break-in your cam with non-detergent oil! This is old school and these days, you can't even get good non-detergent engine oil. Use a good, high grade oil like Valvoline 20w-50 or straight 30 wt., Castrol 20w-40 or Kendall. Once the cam has been broken-in, you can re-install the inner springs (if you're running them) and do all of the usual things like set the timing, adjust the carb and idle, etc. It's always a good idea to have a garden hose handy when breaking-in cams because there's usually a large air pocket in the cooling system and running an engine at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes can cause it to heat up. Just spray the radiator down while the engine is running and it will help keep things cool.
The second part of breaking-in an engine isn't really that important. I don't believe in driving under 60 MPH or keeping the revs below 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles. What I usually recommend is that after the cam is broken-in, go drive up a hill a couple of times, slowing and accelerating as you go up. This builds-up heat and puts a variable load on the engine which helps seat the rings. kitty-footin' a new engine can cause the cylinders to glaze and the rings may never seat properly. As far as revving the engine? Go for it! You don't think we build race engines and drive them for 500 or 1,000 miles before we rev them up do you? Heck no! As soon as the cam is broken-in, it's at the red line, going down the track! What you want to avoid on street engines besides kitty-footin' around is getting on the highway and going the same speed for extended periods of time. It doesn't matter if it's 40MPH or 70MPH, just don't hold it there. Instead, vary your speed, pass a few people and then slow down for a bit, and then speed back up. This varies the engine load and helps things seat-in better. Be sure to change your oil and filter after the first hundred or so miles because when an engine breaks-in, little tiny, fine particles of metal are wearing-off inside and floating around in the oil. This is all pert of the break-in process and is totally normal
http://www.badasscars.com/products.html
Hope it helps
Terry
[Modified by trw, 8:38 AM 12/10/2002]
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Le Mans Master
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From: absecon nj
Re: Conflicting breakin advice (trw)
Ive built all my motors for 17 years now,including all the circle track motors ive done,the circle trackmotors i send out for 10 laps then come and cool,then 10 laps then cool down then send them right out 7500 rpm burst for 30 laps,shes broken in last all season.Street motors i seat the rings and then right out and give it all shes got. :D