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Hey guys i’m back with another question for heads. I want to get these boat anchor 624s off my car. I have a cam with unkown specs (may get replaced too), performer intake and true dual exhaust. I ran into a guy at a gas station yesterday who said he will give me a pair of 462 heads off a 327 for $100. Seems like a good deal, they would need a rebuild and accessory holes drilled. Would it be worth it?
i have drilled accy holes and stacked washers to set the bracket mount point. kind of butcher job because the head surface is too far back and mount must be shimmed. and 3/8 16 thread in kind of thin spot. i would not do it. buy the 100 buck heads and sell em for 250 to somebody with a 65-66 needs those date codes. you do guides and new valves and valve job and you have near 1k in them.
Hey guys i’m back with another question for heads. I want to get these boat anchor 624s off my car. I have a cam with unkown specs (may get replaced too), performer intake and true dual exhaust. I ran into a guy at a gas station yesterday who said he will give me a pair of 462 heads off a 327 for $100. Seems like a good deal, they would need a rebuild and accessory holes drilled. Would it be worth it?
What bolts to your 624 heads now? Heres my setup.
Last edited by Vortecpro; Feb 14, 2021 at 10:36 PM.
Its ok, depends how much work they need. Not sure what kind of power difference they would make?
There are some speedmaster alum double humps. Never used them but saw gkull posted. Speedmaster-pro comp
Trick flow makes some real nice alum double humps. More$ but nice...good quality and flow well for thier size.
Edit;if you just have to have them, ck local machine shops. Many have heads that are gone through for fair money..not sure Cylinder Head Exchange still carries any but they are rebuilt and cheap. There are many aftermarket iron heads that are overlooked...they are affordable and work better than the GM stuff.
Aside from power, I assume your car runs and drives well?
$100 for the heads, another $100 for gaskets for a not significant increase in horsepower, plus all the work to make the heads work with your motor, plus the work to install the heads... and that’s before you find out whether the heads are cracked, need a valve job, etc. If they literally need ANYTHING done to them, you’d be better off getting aluminum heads. The 60’s and 70’s heads are junk outside of a numbers-matching context. You could get L98 aluminum heads and have similar flow, lower weight and more compression. Or you could hold onto your pennies for a while and get good heads like TFS or AFR and make much better power.
I’ve met a lot of interesting people at gas stations... I would not base an engine build off of those conversations.
You can't just drill-n-tap every Chevy head on the end of the castings unless you enjoy tapping into the waterjacket. There's just not enough meat there.
Note that Chevy heads that DO HAVE Acc holes also have a thick boss there too, for just such drilling.
I would tell the seller, thanks but no thanks too much trouble & risky.
into water jacket. exactly what i did when i did it. only 2 or 3 threads thick too. it worked, but i do not recommend it. and this was 30 years ago. alum heads rare and expensive.
Last edited by derekderek; Feb 18, 2021 at 04:49 PM.
You can't just drill-n-tap every Chevy head on the end of the castings unless you enjoy tapping into the waterjacket. There's just not enough meat there.
Note that Chevy heads that DO HAVE Acc holes also have a thick boss there too, for just such drilling.
I would tell the seller, thanks but no thanks too much trouble & risky.
You would have to be insane to drill a 462 head, no need to drill it anyway as my example illustrates.
You would have to be insane to drill a 462 head, no need to drill it anyway as my example illustrates.
maybe not insane when i did it. just young and stupid. THEN i put the heads on a 400 in a boat. blew large chunks off the pistons. i guess the engine was trying to set the CR where it belonged...
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