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I’m looking to purchase a matched cam kit (cam, lifters, springs, etc..) for my engine, but want to make sure I have enough engine vacuum to run all the vacuum accessories. From what I’ve read, I need to stay under 240 @ 50 to ensure adequate vacuum. Is this an accurate statement? I know lobe separation also plays a factor due to valve overlap. I have found two mechanical/solid roller cams that look good, but with 11:1 compression of my LT1 short block, are these cams too mild? Looking at compression vs duration charts, it states I need to be at 240 degrees at 50 with 11:1 compression.
What heads are you running?
Is this a 350 still?
I built my Dad a 350 in 1999 with a 244@.050 cam in it and it pulled 11 inches of vacuum......the roller will pull more as you can't compare flat tappet duration to roller duration.....different worlds.
What heads are you running?
Is this a 350 still?
I built my Dad a 350 in 1999 with a 244@.050 cam in it and it pulled 11 inches of vacuum......the roller will pull more as you can't compare flat tappet duration to roller duration.....different worlds.
Jebby
They are Phase 2 Bowties- which will receive some porting. Unfortunately the information out on the web is very generic, which is why I come here to get better info!
I had no issues with vacuum. I ran the mildest solid roller from Comp Cams. I bought a complete kit from them with cam, lifters, springs, pushrods and timing set. I loved the sound and the way it revved, but after 3000 miles a roller lifter dumped it's needle bearings and destroyed my engine. I had bought the street lifter that were supposed to be long life. When I called Comp about the failure they just told me "sounds about right" for 3000 miles. I would stay away from CC entirely. They like to rush products to market and let the public be the beta testers. I went back to hydraulic rollers and I don't miss the valvetrain maintenance.
They are Phase 2 Bowties- which will receive some porting. Unfortunately the information out on the web is very generic, which is why I come here to get better info!
I had no issues with vacuum. I ran the mildest solid roller from Comp Cams. I bought a complete kit from them with cam, lifters, springs, pushrods and timing set. I loved the sound and the way it revved, but after 3000 miles a roller lifter dumped it's needle bearings and destroyed my engine. I had bought the street lifter that were supposed to be long life. When I called Comp about the failure they just told me "sounds about right" for 3000 miles. I would stay away from CC entirely. They like to rush products to market and let the public be the beta testers. I went back to hydraulic rollers and I don't miss the valvetrain maintenance.
Yah, I’ve read articles regarding that issue. It appears its from low rpms and the lifters not getting enough oil splash from the crankshaft. To be honest, it will take me 20 years to drive 3,000 miles. It rarely gets driven. The cylinder walls still have their cross hatching and the engine is old!!!
As I recall for a solid lifter cam you can subtract 10* from the duration to compare it to a hydraulic lifter cam.
given that the larger cam you spec’d would be better, but I believe you could go with more duration if it’s a 383 even if a 350 depending on what you want performance wise.
be sure to check your DCR with an 11:1 CR. You may need more duration to avoid detonation.
DCR with iron heads max 8.5:1
aluminum 9.0:1
Last edited by REELAV8R; Feb 24, 2021 at 01:08 PM.
From what I’ve read the 112 LSA will give you better vacuum than 110. But all of these cams I’ve found are on a 110 unfortunately.
I've had enough vacuum with a cam on a 108° LSA, 250/254° @.050 duration (11° vacuum)......all accessories worked fine. My current cam is on 112° LSA, with 259/265° @.050 duration and I have 12° vacuum with everything working fine. So it kinda depends on the grind and the total engine specs. If you see one you like at 110 LSA, but prefer it at 112, just have it custom ground......Comp Cams does this at no extra charge.