My Situation: 1976 headlight doors are nice and flush with the body when closed. When open, the driver side door opens too far (see photo). It may be of importance to note that no part of the light assembly has ever been removed/replaced/adjusted since new... and that light door has always sat a little proud of the body when open.

I have read several threads and watched the Willcox video and they generally refer to the bumper bolt as the up position adjustment.

My Issue: The bolt is not long enough to adjust the assembly down to the desired position... and even if it was, adjusting it that far would prevent the assembly from fully extending to the open and locked position.. Some (including mine) have an electrical switch mounted on the assembly with a light in the instrument cluster that indicates if the door is not fully open. This switch will not engage if the bumper stop is adjusted to set the bottom of the assemble flush with the body.

I believe that the Willcox video says the stop should be adjusted to touch the housing, then one additional turn. That sounds about right, and it appears to me that the bumper only stabilizes the light assembly to keep it from bouncing... I don't see how that bumper can affectively be used to adjust the extent that the assembly opens. So that leaves me with the question: How do you make that adjustment?

I would be very interested to hear from someone that has dealt with this particular adjustment issue and can provide insight on the sequence of adjustments to get this lined up correctly.

 

Somethings really weird since the stop bolt should be even closer than normal rather than farther away. Lowering the headlight should only make it worse

As long and everything else if more or less correct, the only other thing affecting the UP position is the eyebolt end fitting on the actuator rod itself, if the stop doesn't touch the side of the frame then the actuator will push out as far as it can even after if goes over-center. Normally, the springs take over and they hold the light up and against the stop rather than the actuator itself. The stop is there to take away the "flutter" that would be just the bounce on the springs when open

So you can screw the end fitting in a few turns and see if that helps but it's certainly not the real answer as that stop should hit the frame side
M

(there were 3 different stop brackets used over the years but since you say nothing has ever been changed then yours should be the correct one)

 

So I am starting to think that the correct way to adjust this is to loosen the mounting bracket bolts (which have some adjustment play in them), set the bottom of the housing flush with the body with the door open... Then, the door will no longer be flush when closed... but there is an adjustment screw for that.

This is starting to look like a can of worms that I do not want to open... Ive lived with it that way for 41 years... I'll probably just leave it alone. Thanks...