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I have decided on going with a late model roller block 383 short block so with that trying to figure out the value of my ‘80’s GM LT1 crate engine short block. When I say “value” I mean what do you think I could get for it? I don’t mean it’s valuable. It’s an odd duck with the block being a late 70’s vintage 4 bolt main and the rotating assembly being all vintage LT1. I took a picture of the piston casting number as proof. The #3 piston has a small dent from something over its 30 year life. Mileage wise it might have 3,000 miles on it. Took the oil pan off several months ago to replace the rear main seals and everything looked good. You can see the valve guide from the number one cylinder was leaking badly due to a misaligned rocker arm. Haven’t taken the other head off due to time constraints, but don’t expect to have any issues as the engine ran fine - even with the leaky valve guide. Any info will be helpful. Thanks.
Value is going to be what someone is willing to pay and won't be much depending on where you live. I have the same engine, a LT1 CE (minus the cam) that has been in storage for 15 years and just rusting away. Find someone local who needs it and get what you can. The only real value from a parts perspective is the crank, rods and cam. Blocks and heads are easy to come by.
Sorry, can’t help on what to do with the LT1, but I am also looking at getting a 383 short block, roller /1pc RMS. Did you pick out a 383 yet? Would like to learn what’s good and what’s bad out there.
Sorry, can’t help on what to do with the LT1, but I am also looking at getting a 383 short block, roller /1pc RMS. Did you pick out a 383 yet? Would like to learn what’s good and what’s bad out there.
No, I haven’t officially listed it for sale. At this point I am considering keeping it and putting in new 40 over flat top pistons in it. All forged short blocks are pricey.
In terms of good or bad depends on many factors in my opinion. First question is how are you going to use the engine. Second question how much power do you want and the next question impacts every else; which is how much do you want to spend?
Blue Print engines seems to make the best all around shorts blocks for the price.
Sorry, can’t help on what to do with the LT1, but I am also looking at getting a 383 short block, roller /1pc RMS. Did you pick out a 383 yet? Would like to learn what’s good and what’s bad out there.
Brings back memories, not of TA&M but Gonzales, TX where I lived for about a year and a half back in the early 80's. I drove my '80 in the 1982 Gonzales "Come and Take It" festival parade, leading one of our company's oil well wireline services logging trucks.
Brings back memories, not of TA&M but Gonzales, TX where I lived for about a year and a half back in the early 80's. I drove my '80 in the 1982 Gonzales "Come and Take It" festival parade, leading one of our company's oil well wireline services logging trucks.
Yessiree. Good old Gonzales, TX and good ‘ol oil patch!
No, I haven’t officially listed it for sale. At this point I am considering keeping it and putting in new 40 over flat top pistons in it. All forged short blocks are pricey.
In terms of good or bad depends on many factors in my opinion. First question is how are you going to use the engine. Second question how much power do you want and the next question impacts every else; which is how much do you want to spend?
Blue Print engines seems to make the best all around shorts blocks for the price.
The engine will be pleasure only. I won’t be racing it, but I do like a lot of TQ. It’s needed to get that 3,600 lb Camaro moving. Looking for about 430 HP with 9.5 to 9.8 compression (as high as I can get away with using premium pump gas). I want to update to a roller block. I will reuse my edelbrock performer heads and intake manifold. so I just need a short block. The Skip White package I’m liking comes in around $3,500 including shipping and upgrades. I am very interested in opinions here regarding quality/ reputation of various builders. The ones that I am seeing are:
ATK
Blueprint
Skip White
GM Performance (maybe too spendy)
I see that BluePrint is quite popular here and that is very good to know. Their 383 packages they advertise come right in at about 430 HP. What concerns me is that they don’t list the make of their components. Skip White and ATK do and it’s all reputable brand stuff.
Last edited by need-for-speed; May 13, 2021 at 01:10 AM.
most times when they don't list the make of components it is because the buyer probably doesn't read chinese anyway. the value of the LT1 block. the block itself is worth 50 to 100 bucks. the forged 11 to 1 pistons? maybe 20 to 50 each to people who need one to complete an OE set. pink rods? not much. forged crank? 1 to 200. as a running short block? the only people want that piston dome have real LT1's and the block stampings say otherwise. a friend redid an LT1 back in the 80's. he would drive around the block. remove the coil wire. start it up and drive around the block. it is just too much compression these days.
Last edited by derekderek; May 13, 2021 at 07:52 AM.
most times when they don't list the make of components it is because the buyer probably doesn't read chinese anyway. the value of the LT1 block. the block itself is worth 50 to 100 bucks. the forged 11 to 1 pistons? maybe 20 to 50 each to people who need one to complete an OE set. pink rods? not much. forged crank? 1 to 200. as a running short block? the only people want that piston dome have real LT1's and the block stampings say otherwise. a friend redid an LT1 back in the 80's. he would drive around the block. remove the coil wire. start it up and drive around the block. it is just too much compression these days.
Mmm, have to disagree with you on compression. A 1996 350 LT4 had 10.8:1. Good fuel and the right cam with the proper tune, you can run a street engine on 11:1.
My number on this is $700.......it has no collector value but it is the best of what Chevrolet had....1036a6 forged crank, 1038 "Pink" rods (magnafluxed and shotpeened), and the TRW domed piston.
I would come get it myself but too many irons in the fire right now.......
This would be a smoking cheap project to make big power......bolt a set of 180/72cc Dart heads on it, a nice Hyd. Roller cam, and make some kick *** street power on the cheap......
It is important to note that not one small block back then actually had 11 to 1 compression, they measured out at 10.4 to 10.6 to 1.......
The 96 LT-4 had a lot of tricks to make 10.8 to 1 work on the street.....and the factory LT-1 had 10.5 to 1....reverse cooling and tight engine management was the deal.
I would use a 72cc here rather than a 64cc head on this if someone built it......the 6cc's are outweighed by unshrouding the intake valve and piston dome......
My number on this is $700.......it has no collector value but it is the best of what Chevrolet had....1036a6 forged crank, 1038 "Pink" rods (magnafluxed and shotpeened), and the TRW domed piston.
I would come get it myself but too many irons in the fire right now.......
This would be a smoking cheap project to make big power......bolt a set of 180/72cc Dart heads on it, a nice Hyd. Roller cam, and make some kick *** street power on the cheap......
It is important to note that not one small block back then actually had 11 to 1 compression, they measured out at 10.4 to 10.6 to 1.......
The 96 LT-4 had a lot of tricks to make 10.8 to 1 work on the street.....and the factory LT-1 had 10.5 to 1....reverse cooling and tight engine management was the deal.
I would use a 72cc here rather than a 64cc head on this if someone built it......the 6cc's are outweighed by unshrouding the intake valve and piston dome......
Jebby
The Gen 3 LT1’s run 11.5:1 on pump gas... but yes they are direct injection... However, they are a cam in block 2v engine!
***spoiler - my dynamic compression will be lower (which I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know).... However, I will show everyone 11:1 can be street friendly once my engine gets up and running... with 93 octane 😉
The Gen 3 LT1’s run 11.5:1 on pump gas... but yes they are direct injection... However, they are a cam in block 2v engine!
***spoiler - my dynamic compression will be lower (which I’m not telling you anything you don’t already know).... However, I will show everyone 11:1 can be street friendly once my engine gets up and running... with 93 octane 😉
I assume that is because the cam will have enough valve overlap to bleed off a wee bit of cylinder pressure, correct? Have you picked/ spec’d a cam yet?
Last edited by need-for-speed; May 13, 2021 at 02:50 PM.
I assume that is because the cam will have enough valve overlap to bleed off a wee bit of cylinder pressure, correct? Have you picked/ spec’d a cam yet?
Yep, you’re right... No not yet. Not every cam manufacturer posts their cam cards for me to be able to play with the dynamic compression calculator.
My number on this is $700.......it has no collector value but it is the best of what Chevrolet had....1036a6 forged crank, 1038 "Pink" rods (magnafluxed and shotpeened), and the TRW domed piston.
I would come get it myself but too many irons in the fire right now.......
This would be a smoking cheap project to make big power......bolt a set of 180/72cc Dart heads on it, a nice Hyd. Roller cam, and make some kick *** street power on the cheap......
It is important to note that not one small block back then actually had 11 to 1 compression, they measured out at 10.4 to 10.6 to 1.......
The 96 LT-4 had a lot of tricks to make 10.8 to 1 work on the street.....and the factory LT-1 had 10.5 to 1....reverse cooling and tight engine management was the deal.
I would use a 72cc here rather than a 64cc head on this if someone built it......the 6cc's are outweighed by unshrouding the intake valve and piston dome......
Jebby
The only value this LT1 has to me is too put it in my core collection for a future project that will always be down on power to a BBC that I don't have time to mess with anyway. This LT1 has to go to someone who needs it for a period correct project and doesn't mind paying the price. For me 1000.00 is too much to pay to start a customers build, if it was for a personal project I wanted to build it would be tolerated. Some of you that know me know we built a 327 for a truck of ours, the only reason was too teach my son how to build something out of something most people put very little value on (junk) I would never waste my time on a SBC when I could build a BBC again.
It is a nice core though, along with the heads, sure would look good in my core garage, of course torn down and hot tanked! Jebby I look forward to seeing your stash!
Last edited by Vortecpro; May 15, 2021 at 08:49 AM.
The only value this LT1 has to me is too put it in my core collection for a future project that will always be down on power to a BBC that I don't have time to mess with anyway. This LT1 has to go to someone who needs it for a period correct project and doesn't mind paying the price. For me 1000.00 is too much to pay to start a customers build, if it was for a personal project I wanted to build it would be tolerated. Some of you that know me know we built a 327 for a truck of ours, the only reason was too teach my son how to build something out of something most people put very little value on (junk) I would never waste my time on a SBC when I could build a BBC again.
It is a nice core though, along with the heads, sure would look good in my core garage, of course torn down and hot tanked! Jebby I look forward to seeing your stash!
The guy who bought it was quite surprised there was still some crosshatching on the 4” bore cylinder walls. When I told people the engine was over 30 years old with less than 5,000 miles on it, they’re usually like sure whatever. But the engine doesn’t lie...
oinly downside is no back up engine. these 96-02 vortecs popped their intake manifold gaskets. bottom ends are usually fine. you are not using this crank and pistons? i guess .030 and decked block? you need to decide what you are gonna do for fuel system. holley reds work pretty good. i ran 2 350's off of one in a 27 foot go fast boat. but you want it wired to a relay that will shut off if engine quits. oil pressure switch is common.
GM crate engine LT1 short block value question
