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Vacuum jumping around at idle?

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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 06:56 PM
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Default Vacuum jumping around at idle?

I’ve got a blueprint 383 with less than 500 miles on it. I’m wondering if it’s normal for the vacuum gauge to be jumping around like this?

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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 07:42 PM
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HIH
M
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mooser

HIH
M
Thanks! I’m gonna check the valve adjustment tomorrow
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 07:51 AM
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These Vac leaks are tough to find alright. Appears to be just one cylinder, although might be a skip part way thru the vid, indicating a second valve leak. Hard to say.

If you didn't glue both sides of your valve cover gasket, you'll have it made for valve inspection. I would pull one cover and look for a rocker that just refuses to loosen up a bit.
By jogging the IGN key, observe the number 1 Exh valve, checking for too tight of lash. Then #1 Int and right on down the line. Then do the other bank.
If you find one lashed too tight, just reset the lash when its partner valve is fully open.

Another slim & rare chance is a Intake gasket failed seal at one port only.
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 08:17 AM
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No. If you raise the idle slowly, what happens to the gauge? Also, where are you connecting the vacuum gauge?
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
No. If you raise the idle slowly, what happens to the gauge? Also, where are you connecting the vacuum gauge?
I'm connecting the gauge to the port that comes off the intake, all other vacuum things are disconnected and plugged up. I have a new gauge coming today to make sure it's not the gauge. I'll check later and see what happens when I raise the idle.
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 11:33 AM
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Tee the gauge into the unported vacuum advance port on the carb (assume your carb vacuum advance is connected here) and try it again, post another video if possible and if it still jumps around the same, show it while slowly raising the rpms.

Last edited by Factoid; Apr 5, 2021 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Factoid
Tee the gauge into the unported vacuum advance port on the carb (assume your carb vacuum advance is connected here) and try it again, post another video if possible and if it still jumps around the same, show it while slowly raising the rpms.
This is great idea.....why have I never thought of this! Thanks!

Jebby
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 08:13 PM
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I had a set of spark plugs laying around, replaced them all and it runs great now, stays stable

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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 08:16 PM
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Fantastic! Well done! You must be relieved.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 09:51 AM
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That’s not the same gauge. If you use a liquid filled gauge it will dampen the vibrations and give you a reading like your second video. A cheap gauge will bounce around like your first. Try it again with the first gauge. I suspect nothing has changed.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by drwet
That’s not the same gauge. If you use a liquid filled gauge it will dampen the vibrations and give you a reading like your second video. A cheap gauge will bounce around like your first. Try it again with the first gauge. I suspect nothing has changed.
wow these gauges are very different

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Old Apr 8, 2021 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by drwet
That’s not the same gauge. If you use a liquid filled gauge it will dampen the vibrations and give you a reading like your second video. A cheap gauge will bounce around like your first. Try it again with the first gauge. I suspect nothing has changed.
I did not know you could get liquid filled vacuum test gauges. Learn something everyday. Dash ones ive seen liquid filled. A vac gauge is such an underrated test tool - it can tell you so much. I am trying to understand the teeing into the vac advance line to the carb, and why this is better than tapping into direct vacuum off the manifold. I've done it both ways. What if any is the advantage of teeing into the vac advance line? Trying to understand and learn.

OP, can you try that first vac gauge, that is from your mighty vac, on another performance type motor to see if it moves the same? I've never used my mighty vac as an engine test gauge, but there should be no reason why not. It's a vacuum gauge. Just wondering if it's just not able to handle the pulses from an engine, but rather to test and hold linear type vacuum like a vac advance can or headlight actuator,etc. First gauge suggests valve guides, second gauge suggests all pretty good.





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Old Apr 8, 2021 | 01:32 PM
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Blueprint said it's fine since this engine has 110 degree lob separate it'll bounce a bit on the mitivac. I did have a misfire but it seems like plugs fixed it.
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Old Apr 8, 2021 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tehjrow
wow these gauges are very different

https://youtu.be/xSsi6_wvdhc
I have 110 lsa it does the same thing
I have my vacuum guage set up with a tee in the vacuum advance and always have because that's how the engine runs
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Old Apr 8, 2021 | 02:56 PM
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If you take a reading from a runner with a big cam it will bounce like that.....going to the carb can even out all of the pulses in some cases depending on the style of intake.....
I always take vacuum readings from the carb as it is the closest to the throttle plate and representative of what the carb “sees”.....all 8 cylinders....not just one.

Jebby
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Old Apr 8, 2021 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
If you take a reading from a runner with a big cam it will bounce like that.....going to the carb can even out all of the pulses in some cases depending on the style of intake.....
I always take vacuum readings from the carb as it is the closest to the throttle plate and representative of what the carb “sees”.....all 8 cylinders....not just one.

Jebby
Makes sense. Never considered the fact that pulses are more pronounced at the manifold. I'm running a 108 LSA cam and i see a slight moving needle off the manifold. Will tee off the vac line and see if a difference. I can now see the benefit for keeping a plugged tee on the vac advance line. Thanks all. More knowledge.
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