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The McCleod Street Pro is a pretty popular choice at that power level. I had it in my 350/350 and it worked well. When I dropped in the 383 I upgraded it to a Super Street Pro.
I put in a RAM replacement clutch, basicly just like the factory clutch. great reviews on them and a fair price so I went with them. Didn't feel the need for some over the top high power clutch as the first one lasted over 40 years.
Was surprised to find a much lighter pedal feel. been in for a couple thousand miles now. works great for normal street use and yes a fair few "Oops I accidentally lit up the tires" moments.
I am going to have the clutch replaced in my 70 350/350hp. looking for recommendations on what is a good street clutch
Thanks
Marty
I have a McLeod Super Street Pro installed in mine 2 years ago. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html
I was fortunate to find this thread before I bought mine. My reasoning for using the McLeod is (yes, I'm aware it's a little more money) because of HOW MUCH OF A LARGE PAIN IN THE *** it is to replace a clutch in C2 - 3. So, I decided why take a chance, and go with a known commodity.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I use McLeod. They use the same clutch for all their horsepower ratings, the disc itself is what grips and gives the higher rating. So if you do buy a clutch and want to upgrade if you go with higher horsepower.....(I learned this after buying 3 complete setups), you can just buy a higher rated disc. Summit sells them and probably Jegs and speedway too. They are a good clutch and if broken in properly will give you years of service. Mine see some aggressive use and I dont have a single complaint once you get one for the HP you have at the clutch.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Apr 22, 2021 at 06:59 AM.
So if you do buy a clutch and want to upgrade if you go with higher horsepower.....(I learned this after buying 3 complete setups), you can just buy a higher rated disc. .
usually...
a typical product line for a clutch manufacturer is:
stage 1: grippier/fade resistant disc material with a stock PP. stock pedal effort.
stage 2: ceramic puck disk with a stock PP. ceramic is far grippier so clutch can take "finesse" to drive smooth
stage 3: higher clamping force pressure plate. done though either changing the diaphragm spring fulcrum point or using two diaphragm springs, along with a stage 1 disk. Higher pedal effort.
stage 4. stage 3 + ceramic puck disk. not really streetable.
the ultimate for drivebility and power is a larger diameter (8-9") multi-disk. ala c7. stock disks. stock pedal effort and take-off finesse with twice the holding power. (not to be confused with racing 5.5" or 7" multidisk units)
My .02 is if under 400 crank hp then a stage 1 is probably fine. anything more and I would jump right to a multi-disk so it drives like stock.
R
Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Apr 22, 2021 at 09:48 AM.
Marty,
I have a LUK in one of my high performance cars that is very nice for my use. It would be considered a high quality stock replacement clutch. I do not race the vehicle much so that impacts the selection. I would not hesitate to buy it again if I ever need it. Price is surprisingly low for the quality.
My stroker project is getting the Mcleod Street Pro. A step up from stock. That said, it is bout 3 times the price of the LUK. This application requires an upgrade in torque holding ability.
If you do not go to the track much you could use the LUK. If you drop the clutch hard a lot, you might want to step up to the next level clutch.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by Dynra Rockets
usually...
a typical product line for a clutch manufacturer is:
stage 1: grippier/fade resistant disc material with a stock PP. stock pedal effort. Mcleod uses their organic material good to 300 horse
stage 2: ceramic puck disk with a stock PP. ceramic is far grippier so clutch can take "finesse" to drive smooth They use a metallic oraganic mix, looks the same and rate it to 400 horse
they ceramic metallic triangle metal plates get it up to 500horse
stage 3: higher clamping force pressure plate. done though either changing the diaphragm spring fulcrum point or using two diaphragm springs, along with a stage 1 disk. Higher pedal effort. Here on up they have the twin discs
the ultimate for drivebility and power is a larger diameter (8-9") multi-disk. ala c7. stock disks. stock pedal effort and take-off finesse with twice the holding power. (not to be confused with racing 5.5" or 7" multidisk units)
My .02 is if under 400 crank hp then a stage 1 is probably fine. anything more and I would jump right to a multi-disk so it drives like stock.
R
my additions in red. All very good clutches with friendly pedal pressures. I've since gone with their hydraulic throw-out bearing
Ive run:
Zoom clutch--would never buy again.
Centerforce--Great clutch, no issues.
Mcleod--WOW! super easy pedal feel (better pedal than the centerforce), and grips great--no issues here, either!
I put in a RAM replacement clutch, basicly just like the factory clutch. great reviews on them and a fair price so I went with them. Didn't feel the need for some over the top high power clutch as the first one lasted over 40 years.
Was surprised to find a much lighter pedal feel. been in for a couple thousand miles now. works great for normal street use and yes a fair few "Oops I accidentally lit up the tires" moments.
RAM HDX^^^^^ Great street clutch, good to 450-500 Gross HP!
Hands Down recommendation by my engine builder who did the machine work back in 2014 on the OEM L-82 355 and built the short block, good for 450 Gross HP, in car today.
Lighter than stock clutch feel and been in since 2014. Very reasonable/fair price! Don't waste money on fancy clutches for engines less than 500 Gross HP when you can go RAM!
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 25, 2021 at 08:35 AM.
Last year my 73 SB had trouble with the speedometer gear in the tranny. My service shop removed the tranny to be refurbished. I contacted Ernie Willcox who said they only use LUK clutches and flywheels at his shop. You will need to make sure that the replacement flywheel has the correct number of splines, ask me how I know. Purchased everything from Summit.
Getting harder to find, and price is now nuts, but I have always used the Hays 11" street/strip Borg & Beck. Every car I have owned for the last 40 years.
