Slight Valve tap when cold...
355 Blue Print Crate, Flat tapett, maybe 6-8K miles. oil is 10-30 valvoline racing
I have a slight valve tap on cold start up, can't always hear it, kind of depends on where the car is parked and if the noise bounces off something like a car parked next to it. I heard it when I got it last year but you just don't always hear it. I heard it yesterday and investigated with a hollow rod, I can hear it on the manifold runner for #8. It is not audible after the engine has run for maybe a minute and its really only audible around 13-1500RPM, but you can pick it up with the rod even when hot. I kept the oil filter from my last change, about 2500 miles so I cut it open. You can't see any metal with a good light and the naked eye but I have a strong magified and bright desk lamp. You can see tiny glints of metal, way to small to see on a magnet and not very many but they are there.
My concern is I got this car from a none car guy who didn't do much. The oil was very thin and I just thought he put the wrong kind in so I changed it right away and then again in 500 miles, with zinc. I have no sense of smell but my son in law was around and I had him smell the oil after 2.5K and he said fuel smell. Turned out to be fuel perculation and I've fixed that but I wonder if the cam/lifters got damaged from the diluted oil...? I put a magnitized drain plug in today...will run it abit and change the oil..and check again.
What do you think.. Thanks!
60
If you find one loose, jog the key and put its partner valve fully open and set the lash on the "closed" suspect valve.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 25, 2021 at 09:09 PM.





There are one million LS powered Chevy pickups running around that do the same thing......
Valvetrain noise typically does not go away in a minute.....it is usually noisy for either a few seconds after startup (Lifter pump up) or it just persists......
A damaged cam will just make noise...and it will just get louder.....sometimes within minutes.....I doubt that is happening here.....
Jebby
I took it for fuel last night, about a 15 mile trip and I paid close attention.. I was a little optimistic on my initial post, when I can hear it, it gets a little louder as you go from 1200 to about1600 and then goes away or the engine noise drowns it out but I think it diminishes to the point you can't hear it. My electric choke clicks off real fast and the car idles at 800-9 even cold and it's not noticeable at that RPM, maybe an occasional tap After about 4 min warm up, the H20 gauge is halfway and it's pretty quiet-(you have to be **** to hear it-LOL). When I got back (15 miles) I could not make it do it but if you put my hollow tube on #8 you can tell it's different from the rest, very slight tap. I only hear it on the manifold, valve cover and header are quiet/normal.. I guess Piston slap would be Ok but I'd like to eliminate the valves, doesn't the fact that it gets quiet when things get hot mean that as things expand the tolerences get closer?.
I'll probably order valve cover gaskets, center bolt, and spark plugs since I might remove them to turn the engine over easier, plan on doing it by hand if I can. I've adjusted valves on Old VWs, Harleys, but not hydrolic's on a V8, I just want to check them and it's always good to learn. I plan to run it a few hundred miles and check the drain plug for metal before I do anything.
What do you guys think about those tiny flecks in the filter? Funny thing they were pretty much only on one side and not every fold.. I've never opened a car filter before so I don't know what to expect..
60
There are one million LS powered Chevy pickups running around that do the same thing......
Valvetrain noise typically does not go away in a minute.....it is usually noisy for either a few seconds after startup (Lifter pump up) or it just persists......
A damaged cam will just make noise...and it will just get louder.....sometimes within minutes.....I doubt that is happening here.....
Jebby

I have to agree with Jebby on this.
I just built a 496 and the builder encouraged me to have the pistons coated to prevent the slight slap of the pistons when cold.
It won’t hurt anything.
My new Chevy and Ram pickups have all done the same thing.
A good test would be to take it for a nice long drive, then stop for lunch or coffee.
When you start the engine warm and get back on the road listen for the noise.
If you can’t hear it, it’s probably just the pistons.
Long story short, it was a Fram filter that had a leaky anti flow back valve. I had used the readily available AZ Fram's for years with no problem. This was probably a combination of long periods of time between starting and the leaky filter. Fram filters were getting a lot of static on line about that time, so I changed it. Problem solved.
A filter change doesn't cost much.
I took it for fuel last night, about a 15 mile trip and I paid close attention.. I was a little optimistic on my initial post, when I can hear it, it gets a little louder as you go from 1200 to about1600 and then goes away or the engine noise drowns it out but I think it diminishes to the point you can't hear it. My electric choke clicks off real fast and the car idles at 800-9 even cold and it's not noticeable at that RPM, maybe an occasional tap After about 4 min warm up, the H20 gauge is halfway and it's pretty quiet-(you have to be **** to hear it-LOL). When I got back (15 miles) I could not make it do it but if you put my hollow tube on #8 you can tell it's different from the rest, very slight tap. I only hear it on the manifold, valve cover and header are quiet/normal.. I guess Piston slap would be Ok but I'd like to eliminate the valves, doesn't the fact that it gets quiet when things get hot mean that as things expand the tolerences get closer?.
I'll probably order valve cover gaskets, center bolt, and spark plugs since I might remove them to turn the engine over easier, plan on doing it by hand if I can. I've adjusted valves on Old VWs, Harleys, but not hydrolic's on a V8, I just want to check them and it's always good to learn. I plan to run it a few hundred miles and check the drain plug for metal before I do anything.
What do you guys think about those tiny flecks in the filter? Funny thing they were pretty much only on one side and not every fold.. I've never opened a car filter before so I don't know what to expect..
60
You can check the valves......but they would have to be very loose, and just the right amount of loose for this to make the faint noise you describe. Hydraulic lifters are just that, the lash is taken up by hydraulics....and if it is lashed, then relashing is not going to do anything....verify they have lash and move on. I doubt very much that Blueprint would get this wrong. To make a hydraulic lifter make noise then have it go away when hot is kinda not probable.
Yes....parts expand due to heat.....a larger than necessary piston to wall clearance will make noise until the skirt expands and takes up the difference......we are talking thousands of an inch too......
Will it hurt anything? Nope.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Apr 26, 2021 at 12:29 PM.
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Long story short, it was a Fram filter that had a leaky anti flow back valve. I had used the readily available AZ Fram's for years with no problem. This was probably a combination of long periods of time between starting and the leaky filter. Fram filters were getting a lot of static on line about that time, so I changed it. Problem solved.
A filter change doesn't cost much.
Jebby
The noise being faint when hot is when I put something on #8 and hold it to my ear, otherwise it's a struggle to hear it at all.. My Oil presure is almost 70 cold/1500, 60ish cold/1K and 45 Hot in neutral-800rpm. If that filter is better flowing does it filter as good as the NAPA or WIX..just wondering...
Thanks
60
The noise being faint when hot is when I put something on #8 and hold it to my ear, otherwise it's a struggle to hear it at all.. My Oil presure is almost 70 cold/1500, 60ish cold/1K and 45 Hot in neutral-800rpm. If that filter is better flowing does it filter as good as the NAPA or WIX..just wondering...
Thanks
60
When you get the filter.....compare it to your old one......the difference is eye opening. There is a lot of oil moving through a filter at 5000 rpm.....this takes the "filter restriction" question right off the table.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Apr 26, 2021 at 01:27 PM.
The Moroso is 27 microns......which I feel is ok but filter geeks trip out on it......20 micron particles wash right through the bearings...too small to be seen with out a microscope.
Jebby
More common with forged pistons than cast or hypereutectic pistons.
O.P. says this is a 355 Blue-Print Crate Engine. Those come with hypereutectic.
I thought I had an extra filter on the shelf but there was a used filter in the box from my first oil change, I cut it open but I have to let the media drain, you can't see anything with it soaked in oil... Curious to see if there are any of those flecks in there..
Thanks..
60
My slight valve tap is still there and maybe a little louder, or I have become even more ****...It taps hot or cold but very slight. It's been 3K miles and I changed the oil every 1K, picture of the last two filters attached. You need a magnifing glass to catch even a tiny glint of metal and there are very few of them, maybe every 5-8 pleats has one microscopic one. The Magnet drain plug has a thin coating of metal mud, real thin, . Car runs good otherwise. I can't pin point the tap with a hollow rod or a scope but it seems to be on the right side. Took the valve cover off, verified all pushrods are turning-(both sides)-...#6 intake seems to be the tapper but it's really not definite... I did the loosen till it clacks, tighten till it stops and then half turn more lash adjustment, no change....
Am I correct that if the pushrods are spinning then the cam/lifters are OK-(flat tappet)?
Any ideas? -(I really don't want to take it apart unless I know what I'm after)
Thanks, 60
60
There are one million LS powered Chevy pickups running around that do the same thing......
Valvetrain noise typically does not go away in a minute.....it is usually noisy for either a few seconds after startup (Lifter pump up) or it just persists......
A damaged cam will just make noise...and it will just get louder.....sometimes within minutes.....I doubt that is happening here.....
Jebby
Any Ideas?.
Thanks, 60












