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Howling/Screeching sound

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Old May 1, 2021 | 09:01 AM
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Default Howling/Screeching sound

Hey there my vette family,

just got my car back from the shop being rebuilt after a year. Engine sounds good but when I drive over 25/30mph, I hear almost like a howling/tire screeching sound.
When I told the mechanic he said drive it this weekend snd see if it goes away.
I’ve talked to a few guys who said DO NOT drive it as it could be a larger issue.


Anyone have any insight? I just wanna know if I should drive it. Sounded like it got worse yesterday after driving it to the gas station.
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May 1, 2021, 01:45 PM
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i find i get less screeching sounds if i never tell her about parts i am buying...
Old May 1, 2021 | 09:14 AM
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Take it back to the mechanic and tell him to fix it. Also, are your belts properly aligned and tensioned? They can make a nice screeching sound.

Last edited by resdoggie; May 1, 2021 at 09:18 AM.
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Old May 1, 2021 | 09:26 AM
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I’m not entirely sure but I plan on taking it back. They had the car for a year. I tried to upload the video of the sound but it doesn’t allow it here I guess.

I just didn’t know if I should drive it to let it run and move?
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Old May 1, 2021 | 09:40 AM
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It really depends on what is causing the screech. Hopefully it is just belts. Run it with the hood open and listen. Rev it a little.
Figure out if it is related to engine speed, or car speed.

To post a video you need to post it on you tube first. Then post a "link" here.

That could help us help you.

The squeeling in my son's car 2 days ago turned out to be the rear wheel bearings. Pretty loud at 20-40 mph. Woof-woof noise.
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Old May 1, 2021 | 10:28 AM
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Does it make the noise when the car isn't moving and you rev it up in park or in gear with the brakes on and you load the engine a little? Or only when moving?
M
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Old May 1, 2021 | 12:29 PM
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I love this group! So the sound only happens during movement. I have the video and now have the link thanks to you all! It sounds like it’s the right rear wheel area. They did do work to the control arm back there I believe (it got 20K worth of work)

Does this help?
It gets louder at faster speeds

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Old May 1, 2021 | 01:25 PM
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Wow! Sounds like bad bearings. Get a Cen-tech infrared thermometer and check temperature after running. Around 130 F is normal for a differential, hub a little less. You can feel the heat with your hand too.
I bet GTR on the forum can help you with this.

VS
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Old May 1, 2021 | 01:45 PM
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i find i get less screeching sounds if i never tell her about parts i am buying...
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Old May 1, 2021 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
i find i get less screeching sounds if i never tell her about parts i am buying...
Everybody Loves Somebody Sometime
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Old May 1, 2021 | 04:41 PM
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You spent a lot of time and money. The only place I would drive it is back to his shop and let him figure it out. Otherwise he will blame you and you will have a big fight on your hands. For what you paid you shouldn’ have to diagnose anything. My $.02 but I am a grumpy old man at times. Or sommy kids tell me
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Old May 1, 2021 | 07:23 PM
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Yea I’m going to be heading back there Monday morning.

My question is, is it safe to drive?
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Old May 1, 2021 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DeanMartinC3
Yea I’m going to be heading back there Monday morning.

My question is, is it safe to drive?
Ask your repair shop. If they say yes, drive it. If they say no, towing charge is on them.
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Old May 1, 2021 | 07:59 PM
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$20K worth of work? Do you have an itemized invoice you can post, especially anything related to the trailing arms, rear suspension, brakes, and differential?

I'd have also guessed bad wheel bearing.
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Old May 2, 2021 | 09:08 AM
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what was it in the shop for. If it wasnt for wheel bearings then he may not want to deal with it. I would drive it around the block just enough to get whatever is making that noise hot and then use the infrared thermometer gun trick. It sounds most like a wheel bearing to me, not a screech, more of a howl and it isnt engine related because of the rpm changes. How far is it to the mechanic from you. You can also just touch the center of the rear hubs and the heat transfer may be noticible so long as you arent heating the rear discs up alot. no heavy braking during a test drive.
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Old May 2, 2021 | 09:44 AM
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The mechanic is about 15 minutes from me. They did the back right wheel control arm, the invoice I do have, I’ll see if it’ll let me post.

I guess my question boils down to should I even attempt to drive it to see if it needs running or should I wait?
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Old May 2, 2021 | 09:53 AM
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Take it back to your mechanic and tell him to drive it for the weekend. BTW, this mechanic had your car for a year repairing a "rear right wheel control arm" (I'm assuming T/A)?
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Old May 2, 2021 | 10:12 AM
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See post # 1. Engine sounds good. So we can assume it didn't sound good before the shop had it for a yr.

There is an old saying DeanMartin,

If It Ain't Broke, Fix It Until It Is.

But in your case:
If it ain't fixed, break it until it is.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 2, 2021 at 05:49 PM.
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Old May 2, 2021 | 10:15 AM
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Just a question. Did you install different rear wheels. I've seen wheels that rubbed the rear calipers. C-3 calipers are wide
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Old May 2, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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They had to put a new engine, power steering, frame work, etc. I was upset they had it for a year but the car sounds a ton better under the hood.

This issue was as soon as I left snd I picked up at the end of the day so I couldn’t get back there in time to drop it back off. It’s frustrating cause you would think this would be perfect
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Old May 2, 2021 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr D.
Take it back to your mechanic and tell him to drive it for the weekend. BTW, this mechanic had your car for a year repairing a "rear right wheel control arm" (I'm assuming T/A)?
I wouldn't assume that. I would assume that "right rear wheel control arm" means replacing the strut rod bushings, or replacing the strut rod entirely because of a prior Bubba-fix that had adjusted camber by bending the strut rod.

I'd call and confirm what the "repair" was, then bring the car back.
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