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Shifter bolt coming loose

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Old May 3, 2021 | 08:55 PM
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Default Shifter bolt coming loose

The shifter bolt in my 71 LT1 somehow came loose.
It is very tight in the tunnel that the bolt can’t come out completely. But it’s also impossible to get a wrench or tool up there. See picture below.

I removed the driver side exhaust pipe and pulley for the ebrakes for better access. Here are my questions:
- is this bolt threaded or is it a pin or clip keeping it in place?
- what’s the best way to tighten or secure this bolt? From the top by removing the shifter boot from the console? I hope I don’t have to drop the trans.
- what’s the best to keep this bolt from backing out again?

Thanks in advance for your help. Any pictures or video would be big plus.

Robby


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Old May 4, 2021 | 01:36 AM
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That one is much easier to get from the top. pull the console and shifter boot. It's threaded in.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 05:04 AM
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Use some blue Loctite on the bolt.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 3X2
Use some blue Loctite on the bolt.
what I was going to say
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Old May 4, 2021 | 02:50 PM
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You don't need to pull the console. Just remove the shifter plate and boot. tighten from the top. 5 minute job.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 02:58 PM
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It will eventually strip and you will have to remove it, weld nuts to that thin,threaded piece of sheet metal GM used.
Don't ask how I know. ☹
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Old May 4, 2021 | 03:04 PM
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Hard to use locktite when you can’t remove the bolt.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 03:45 PM
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The bracket has a captive nut welded to it. If yours stripped, perhaps the nut had been broken off in the past.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 03:46 PM
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Will try to get to this bolt from the top by removing the shifter plate and boot.
Thanks for all the advice. Will keep you posted of my progress.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 05:14 PM
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It's a pain but I'd just remove the shifter assembly. If it came loose it came loose for a reason. How does it shift? If crappy you can rebuild it and make it "like new". You can also set it up for short throw. It's easy and makes shifting a lot quicker. I even think it's mentioned in the owners manual. It's not hard, just moving the linkage ends to different hold in the trans levers. If you do go this route you'll need to make or acquire this alignment tool to hold the shifter to install the rods to the trans levers.


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Old May 4, 2021 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Lark327
The bracket has a captive nut welded to it. If yours stripped, perhaps the nut had been broken off in the past.
It does not have a captive nut welded to it, it has a piece of about 3/16 sheet metal welded to it and threaded. It easily strips after many years.



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Old May 5, 2021 | 06:42 AM
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Two comments:
1) I stand corrected on the captive nut, but the steel bar serves the same purpose and shouldn’t strip that easily.
2) I would not assume it is stripped. Once when reinstalling my shifter, I had loosely fastened it while alternating from above and the other shifter bolt that needs to be tightened from below. Fortunately I noted the slight play in the shifter mechanism before reassembling the shifter plate and caught it.
A previous owner may have done the same thing.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 07:20 AM
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Wouldn't just assume it's stripped out either. sometimes things just vibrate loose. Not that there's any vibration in a 40 plus year old car.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 12:34 PM
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Sometimes you have to sacrifice a wrench to get into a tight spot. Bend as necessary.
Or, cut the correct width slot in a piece of flat stock.
Per the locktite, put a few drops on a long rod, screwdriver, etc. that will allow you to reach the bolt. You may not need to get the locktite on the very first thread.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 02:24 PM
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From the top and with the shifter inner/outer boot out I was able to see how the shifter bolt attaches to the support bracket.
On my early 1971 LT1 w/4sp. the nut is welded to the bracket. Somewhere along its 50 year life-span I think the shifter bolt was replaced with a slightly shorter one.

I put in a longer bolt so that it has a better bite to the welded nut.(see pictures). This should stop it from backing out. The locking washer and loctite should also help.
Replacing the bolt was the biggest pain.

Thanks everyone for your advice. Just waiting for new boots to be delivered and should be cruising this weekend.



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Old May 5, 2021 | 03:44 PM
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It gets torqued tight. Don't remember the value. But the shifter should still slide freely after torqueing. Mine didn't. So I had to dissasemble and rebuild. Who knows what previous owners have done to it? I had my OEM Hurst shifter rebuilt by Hurst themselves. Even they did it wrong and it was too tight. Had to redo it and remove the extra shim they had added.
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Old May 5, 2021 | 10:03 PM
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Since you have a lot of threads sticking out, you might think about running another jam nut up those exposed threads to augment that factory piece of threaded strap metal.
Can't hurt.
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