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Looking for feedback/input on what A/C components others have installed on the late C3’s. The car is a 79’ L82, still using the V belts, has Patriot Headers, it’s not a daily driver and summer time heat lasts from June to August in TN. Current A/C components have not been operative for about 13 years. I had converted it to R-134a back in 2002 (obviously it didn’t last as long as I had hoped). It has the dual snorkel air intake and I want to keep it that way. What I’ve been able to determine is that installing the Sanded compressor requires removing the passenger side air ducts that feed fresh air to the snorkel, (correct me if I’m wrong). I do not want to remove the dual snorkel intake so I’m looking at staying with the R4 compressor (unless there is another option) but will use R-134A. I’ve read here on the forum that the parallel condenser is a must so I’ll order one when I determine all the other parts needed so I can try and get as many parts as possible from the same provider. So it boils down to what have others done and the parts used. If anyone has repaired their A/C unit and would like to share the parts that were used please let me know what parts and parts number you’ve installed and perhaps the supplier. I addition to the parallel condenser, I’m looking for information on the following parts: R4 Compressor, Main Compressor hose, Accumulator, Low pressure cut off switch that is adjustable, orifice tube (for R134A) and the Thermostat Switch. I’m not replacing the evaporator but I will flush it out. My liquid line should be fine and it will be flushed out too.
If you can figure it out a sanden compressor and leave the rest alone that’s the way i would go.
of course new accumulator, and optionally condenser. Orifice they say slightly smaller than r12 and 124 only 80% compared to r12.
otherwise r4 napa new is how i went r12.. hoses anywhere supporting vendors napa rock..
Regarding using the Sanden with the dual snorkel: my 77 had all the AC components removed when I got it. I was able to install a Sanden compressor using the Alan Grove brackets, and it fits just fine alongside the dual snorkel ducting. I’ll post a picture tomorrow if that would help.
Did AC on two 78’s last year. I used ACDelco r4 compressor, orifice tube, seals/o-rings and flushing fluid from rock auto; accumulator from Zip Corvette; hoses from Willcox. Mac’s Radiator replaced the hoses on the original hardware for one of the cars(cost a little more than Willcox). If you have or get a crimping tool kit you can do it yourself. Suction screen for inlet of compressor and in-line filter for high pressure line from eBay. High temp stick-on insulation for engine side of evaporator box from Summit Racing.
Stick-on strip foam insulation for sealing ductwork joints from Amazon, although others prefer felt strips for longevity, especially around the swiveling outlets.
Just Needs A Recharge, the hack mechanics guide to AC by Rob Siegel and AIM(1979) for references.
Both cars filled with R12 from eBay. Didn’t replace evaporator, condensor or any controls.
A year later both are working great.
Thanks Kerschmolar for the feedback I'll be checking the items out. I'm waiting to see the pic from stevedinino to see what his engine bay looks like with the Sanden compressor and the air intake for the passenger side of the snorkel. Alan Grove Components may have a working bracket, but I still have more research to do.
Thanks again for the info.
I tried to get angles that showed both ducts and the compressor. The bracket isn’t really visible: I’d have to take things apart to show that. Hope these help.
Great sanden pics ...was everything ripped out when you put in? Or at what point does it go back to oem components?
just hoses and compressor and bracket?
MOdel or other details?
I had no AC at all. The PO had removed everything but the evaporator and the controls inside. No compressor, condenser, hoses- all gone.
The wife said she wasn’t riding in a non AC car in South Carolina, so… 🙂
I knew I wasn’t going to try to put it back to original, so I just bought all R134 components, hence the Sanden. I just kept the evaporator (had it pressure tested before I put it back in) and then had hoses fabricated locally to plumb it all up. Got the accumulator and condenser from Nostalgic Air. They sell a kit to switch from the original VIR setup to a more modern system.
All that’s left for me is to charge the system and test it… but I’m having too much fun with leaky brakes to do that right now 🙄.
79 L-82 here, and I just got my A/C working last fall. Granted, I had a shop do all the work. I had it working 6 years ago with the r12, but it slowly leaked out, and of course it was the evaporator that was leaking, so first that was replaced, then the compressor didnt' work well enough with the new evaporator, so that too got replaced, with a aftermarket copy of the original compressor. I also have a new blower motor, but bottom line, I have cold A/C, oh, and the system was coverted to R134 also. I do not have the original dual snorkel air cleaner, I have an open element round air cleaner, but of course what I have would fit with the factory air cleaner, because it's just replacement parts, not modified.
stevedinino, thanks for the picks and additional information. Looks like I might go the route with the Sanden compressor using the Alan Grove bracket. Just one more follow-up question regarding the Sanden compressor. Did you go with the 508 or the 709 compressor?
Thanks
I went with the 508 style. It’s been a long time since I did the research but I think I recall the 709 would require changing the back plate for the ports so the hoses would fit (or something similar). I think it was a space issue since it’s so tight on that side.
I bought a unit that had the double groove v belt pulley so I could get the belt on the outer crank pulley. Don’t know your situation, but at least the double groove gave me a choice.
Also, you can avoid my stupid mistake if you pay attention to the voltage required to engage the clutch. I didn’t, and got a swell deal on a 24v model which required me to buy and swap in a 12v clutch. Oops.