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Hi guys, I'm wondering if the exhaust pipes are separated at the cross member underneath the transmission? See attached pic for location I am talking about, it's not clear to me from the AIM.
The reason I ask is because I am trying to figure out how I can remove the rear end of my exhaust/muffler in order to reach the rubber hoses at the tank (fuel separator on drivers side and return fuel hose on passenger side). My mufflers are welded to the exhaust pipes at the rear of the car, and it seems like the the only way I could remove the exhaust pipes is from this cross member point, if they are separate pieces here. Thanks in advance
Yes, there should be a slip joint right where those two muffler clamps are at the transmission exhaust hanger. If a gorilla did not install the clamps and completely mashed the pipes, you should be able to remove the clamps, put some heat (like from an acetylene torch) on the outer pipe to loosen it and twist them apart.
Cheers, Greg
exhausts aren't made to be disassembled and reassembled. that type clamp dents the outer pipe into the inner one. you would be better off finding a spot where you can get to the pipes and cutting them. then getting a sleeve piece just smaller and slipping it in and clampimg in front and behind the cut. or this type of band clamp. but i still like a sleeve inside the joint where they were cut. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12448582233....c101195.m1851 pick a spot where there is room for the bolts to point sidewawy toward each other so they don't reduce ground clearance and are less obvious. also, you are looking at the aim. you might need a midas or bubba manual for how the 48 year old exhaust is now configured...
Last edited by derekderek; May 6, 2021 at 05:50 AM.
Thanks for the replies. I only have common hand tools and have never used a torch. I am a but nervous to do that especially while working on the fuel system. How does one cut exhaust pipes? That clamp is an interesting idea.
Seems like this might not be as easy as I'd hope, of just unbolting the exhaust pieces. I might try a bit harder to see if I can access the rubber hoses with mufflers in place.
When I took my exhaust apart I got lucky - I was able to remove the clamps and then wiggle the pipes back and forth until they slid apart.
Usually I’m not that lucky. Since I don’t have access to a torch either, a hacksaw works too. I use a hacksaw blade in my reciprocating saw and it goes through exhaust pipes like butter. Harbor Freight sells them pretty cheap. Your arms will thank you 😊.
Last edited by stevedinino; May 6, 2021 at 02:53 PM.
Thanks, maybe it'll be worth it for me to try and see if I can disconnect the pipes at the cross member without a torch, and use lots of WD40.
Good to know that they should be separate at this point.
few are original. if recent and well installed you may get lucky. could also be recent and a fully welded system. a right angle grinder with cut-off wheel works good too. 30 well spent bucks. but always with a cut off wheel, go up in there with the grinder not running and see if you have room without cutting something you don't wanna cut. and makes sparks. so have a fire extinguisher or fired-up garden hose right at hand. in most cases, buying the tools and googling-youtube and here for how to do it and buying the parts is way less expensive than paying somebody to do the job. and when you are done, you still have the tools. and there is one less thing about the car you are intimidated by.
Last edited by derekderek; May 6, 2021 at 03:53 PM.
If you don't have an acetylene torch grab a Mapp torch from your local Lowes or Home Depot. They're only about $40. It's hotter than propane and will help expand that fitting and make your work much easier.
If this joint is welded, it will need to be cut as mentioned by other members.
Had a chance to see my if I could remove the hoses from the tank, and was able to successfully do it without removing exhaust pipes, but it did take quite a lot of patience. I appreciate everyone's responses!
Noticed my fuel separator was broken at the 3/8" nipple, so I had to remove the separator. Will create a new post looking for ideas if it's fixable, from what I've read the replacements are not reliable.
When replacing the tank on my 73 I was able to unbolt the exhaust mounts at the rear and move the pipes to the side to get enough clearance to get the old tank out and the new tank in. Did not have to remove the exhaust. Did this on two different 73’s.
Thanks for that idea, I did unbolt the clamp on one of the exhausts to access the hoses on passenger side. As of now I don't need to remove the tank but that's good to know if I need to remove tank in future.
I suspect you should be able to "wiggle" them out at the tranny xmember location. When you go to put them back in you can borrow/rent one of those exhaust expanders from local parts store; they work great but only expand the pipe to the minimum required. I "wiggled" out my passenger side muffler a couple of months ago and when I used the expander I overdid it a bit (they work amazingly well) so then I had to work to get good "clampage" at the muffler-tailpipe connection.
Anyway, you can see the downpipe and the downpipe-to-intermediate pipe connection on my 68 here:
'73 Exhaust separation points
