Carbeurator Question
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 33
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Carbeurator Question
I've got a 1969 - 427 / 400Hp. with the 3x2's. I went to take my car out for a drive today after setting in the garage for a couple of months. After it warmed up it keeps dying. I took the air cleaner off and restarted it. I can see a fairly steady stream of gas coming out of the discharge nozzle on one of the booster venturi. I took the sight screw out and the fuel level looks ok. So I don't think the float is sticking. The carbs were rebuilt a little over a year ago. I'm wanting to work on this myself, so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Chuck W.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Chuck W.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,662
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From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Carbeurator Question (Red69L68)
Tom454 and Lars are pretty much the forum experts on the 3x2 setup as far as I know. If you email either one of them you'll probably get more information than you can digest on setting up and tuning your carbs.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 231
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From: Cedar City UT
Re: Carbeurator Question (Red69L68)
I'm not a Tri Power expert ,but any time you have fuel coming out the boosters you have a fuel inlet valve hung up with the most common reason being a spec of dirt. I assume these are 2300 Holley's which are the same basic carbs as 4150& 4160.
Just remove the large pan screw on the top of the carb and use the flat adjuster washer to unscew the inlet vave assy and once out spray it clean with a can of gumout carb cleaner. Pay attention to the amount of threads sticking up or down above the flat washer so you can get it back fairly close during reassembly.
To fine tune the float adjustment remove the plug on the side of the fuel bowl and with the engine running loosen the large pan screw 1/4 turn and at the same time move the flat adj washer with a wrench until you get fuel just starting to dribble out of the plug on the side. If you don't have a screw but nut with a slot in the center you have an after market vlv assy that you would be best off to throw away and replace with a Holley inlet vlv assy.
When you do the float adj you will have fuel leaking when you loosen the pan screw so it's a good idea to have a rag under the carb to soak up fuel. Also recommend a fire extinguisher just to be safe or large towel to smother flames.
That's the quick and simple fix. If it doesn't work you have to remove the fuel
bowl and see if you have extensive dirt or rust problem, bad float or something hanging the float up like a loose whistle .
LOL Bob
Just remove the large pan screw on the top of the carb and use the flat adjuster washer to unscew the inlet vave assy and once out spray it clean with a can of gumout carb cleaner. Pay attention to the amount of threads sticking up or down above the flat washer so you can get it back fairly close during reassembly.
To fine tune the float adjustment remove the plug on the side of the fuel bowl and with the engine running loosen the large pan screw 1/4 turn and at the same time move the flat adj washer with a wrench until you get fuel just starting to dribble out of the plug on the side. If you don't have a screw but nut with a slot in the center you have an after market vlv assy that you would be best off to throw away and replace with a Holley inlet vlv assy.
When you do the float adj you will have fuel leaking when you loosen the pan screw so it's a good idea to have a rag under the carb to soak up fuel. Also recommend a fire extinguisher just to be safe or large towel to smother flames.
That's the quick and simple fix. If it doesn't work you have to remove the fuel
bowl and see if you have extensive dirt or rust problem, bad float or something hanging the float up like a loose whistle .
LOL Bob
