I would will be replacing the windshield washer pump and would like to learn the easiest way to do it. I read some older posts and someone replaced it thru the side gill, after removing the trim piece. Someone else replaced it from the bottom, after removing an access panel. I was not clear from that post, if the rocker molding has to be removed to access some of the screws for the panel.

From anyone who has done this job, what is the best way?

 

on a 80 model, I believe that the easiest way is to remove the bottle, install new pump and reinstall the bottle, lots of stuff in the way. even if you can unmount the bottle and get it to turn over to get to the pump works. I've done it a couple times on my 77 and then gave up. the reproduction pumps just don't last.

 

In that case, then the access panel below would have to be removed, because there is not room to remove it from the top, unless the master cylinder is removed.

I am going to use a GM pump that I purchased some time ago, so hope it is better than the aftermarket ones.

 

I don't see why you would have to remove the reservoir just to change the pump?
I can do it in about 30 minutes on my 77 and the filter nut sits much deeper and is offset from the filler opening vs. the later reservoirs.
Once you remove the fill neck it looks like a straight shot to the filter nut and pump drops out the bottom. If it's not a 7/8" deep well socket it is a 1" and extension, or maybe a wobbly.
Use a bent piece of wire to hook and extract filter nut.
Loosely tape the filter nut inside the socket to re-install.
You can find old stock Anco 61-05 blue body washer pumps on e-bay Made in USA by Delco Products for less than $15.00, 75-82 used the same pump.

 

Once you loosen the nut holding the pump, how are removing the pump from the car and installing the new one?

 

If the pump doesn't just drop out after removing filter nut, reach down and extract it making sure the rubber gasket also is removed. Grab pump wiring pulling pump up to R&R the hose and connector. Not sure you have cruise but the transducer was my only real obstacle to work around.

 

I do have cruise control. I can only see accessing the pump, possibly thru the fender gill, or from below, with the access panel removed. I cannot reach my hand down next to the reservoir, unless I remove the cruise transducer.

 

Try sticking you arm and hand above rag joint along column shaft, slid it down to resivor area, see if you can touch the pump then, remove any jewelry first, watch, ring etc..

 

Will try again tomorrow, but I don’t think I can reach the pump, especially with enough clearance to remove and install the hose and wiring connector.

 

My son and I replaced our windshield washer pump last month on my 1980 vette. We went in through the side grill and also removed the top funnel of the reservoir. Then with some long thin pliers I twisted the plastic nut through the top of the reservoir while my son held the motor in place from the bottom. I replaced it with one that I purchased at Autozone, which was a direct replacement. It cost me under $15.

 

I did successfully replace the washer pump on my 1980. For anyone interested in the steps I took:

1. Access panel removal: I discovered there is none on a 1980. Last year was 1979.
2. I started by placing ramps under each wheel and turning the front wheels with the rear of the left wheel all the way out, before placing on ramps.
3. Removed the 10mm bolt holding the washer neck and pulled it out of the washer tank. Used a suction gun to remove the washer fluid.
4. Looking at the top of the washer tank, looked like a crack so I decided to replace it. Turned out be a seam, so this was unnessesary.
5. Removed the grill over the left fender gill, held by 3 no. 15 Torx bolts.
6. Removed the two bolts, no. 13mm holding the charcoal canister mounting bracket.
7. Held the canister with one hand to keep the top centered in the gill opening and used the other hand to disconnect the hoses. I was concerned about mixing them up when reconnecting them. I noticed one upper nipple on the canister is larger than the other. I used some white paint to mark that nipple and the matching vacuum hose so would not mix them up on installation. Each hose is paired to another and held together with a rubber collar. One additional hose is held with a spring clamp.
8. Removed the two, 10 mm bolts in the fender liner that hold the washer tank. When the washer tank dropped down, I reached thru the fender gill to remove the wire connector and the hose. I then tried to remove the tank thru the bottom, but no matter how I turned, it would not fit thru. I removed the alarm horn, for more clearance, but that did not help.
9. Removed the washer pump, by turning around the washer tank until the filter nut was visible thru the fender gill. Then used a 7/8 inch deep socket to remove it. I put some strip chalk in the socket, to hold the filter nut in the socket. I then turned the tank around to remove the washer pump.
10. Without the pump, the washer tank fit thru the opening.
11. The terminals on the wire connector for the pump were corroded so I used a small file to clean them and sprayed electric contact cleaner on them. I put some dialectic grease on them to help reduce future corrosion.
12. Installing the new tank and pump was the reverse with a few details:
A. I pushed the new washer tank thru from the bottom. Put some swimming pool o ring grease on the pump gasket to help seal it and used duct tape to hold the pump to the tank, turned the tank around to insert the filter nut thru the fender gill.
B. Pushed the tank in position and held it in place with some bath towels inserted from underneath. Installed the two bolts thru the fender liner.
C. Reached up from underneath to connect the wire connector and hose. Snipped a bit off the hose for a tighter seal. Installed the washer neck and tested it.
D. Put some o ring grease on the nipples of the charcoal canister, to make it easier to install the vacuum hoses. To make the hoses reach a bit farther, I disconnected them from the two clamps on the inner fender, and removed the clamp from the back of the alternator. To connect them, I used a floor jack to hold the canister in the center of the fender gill. Once each pair of hoses are connected, they are held in place by using a nylon tie thru the connector that the hoses are glued to and around the post of the canister. There is also one separate hose, held to a nipple with a spring clamp.
E. Jacked the canister in position and installed the two bolts.
F. Reattached the canister hoses to the fender brackets and the alternator bracket.

I noticed the washer pump and wire connector were very corroded. I suspect from overfilling with washer fluid, as it will leak out if filled into the neck, as there is no gasket sealing the neck to the tank. I will be watching the level as to not to overfill in the future.