I have a set of Brodix aluminum rectangular port BB heads. They need some work. I was wondering about replacing the valves with titanium. Anyone have some comments about the advisability of doing this? They are much more expensive, but if I bite the bullet on expense, am I getting into some problems I don't know about? Would it make sense to replace the intake valves with titanium and keep the steel exhaust valves? I'm assuming the titanium valves are just as reliable as steel....corrrect? Are titanium retainers a good idea? Thanks.

Current plans are to build the engine as a 454 with an intrnally balanced crank.

 

A complete waste of money if you are not class racing at a very high level. Spend the money on premium valve springs like PAC. A stainless Ferrera or Manley is all you will ever need.
Prices on these valves are breathtaking now........

Jebby

 

If you must run titanium make sure you get lash caps.

 

What kind of RPM do you plan on turning this big block up too?

 

There are many modern springs even with steel retainers that will save a good bit of weight on your valvetrain.
I agree with the covid kid lol . He's on 🎯

 

Depends on how high you want to rev it. They are lighter so less spring can be used to help a killer solid roller lifter setup survive. But otherwise not needed.

My 555 has been running stainless valves for 20+ years now with 8000+ RPM and now boost. First set of Brodix heads worked perfect after about 14 years..still looked great when we touched up the valvejob for some back to back dyno testing. Then I swapped to another set of Brodix as part of a magazine test for those dyno runs and those are still in place with a couple of turbos feeding it and crossing the line at 8000 RPM.

JIM

 

I'm all for lightening up the valvetrain, people always say not worth it unless high rpm but it helps the engine accelerate/rev faster. That said there are alternatives to Ti valves, you could get hollow stem valves or even have your heads set up for smaller stem valves. Tool steel is a nice alternative to Ti retainers, just depends on your prep/use. I myself am gonna use some Ti retainers to save a few more grams than my tool steel retainers on the heads for my C3 but it won't see a ton of miles.

Talk to the guy who is doing your heads and see if he can put a smaller guide in, if there are valves available for your app. I'm not a BBC guy so I only know what peeps do with SBC heads.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Last time I priced them, they were roughly about $80 each. That's about $1280. I'll be sending them back to Brodix for some head work. I'm leaning on staying with steel. I need to be careful spending money since I have a way to go, mainly body work, to get the 70 running.

 

Just wanna point out the two I mentioned could be combined(smaller & hollow stem) within reason but idk if those brodix heads already have smaller stem valves.

 

Do not waste money on exotic valves......it is a fact that a premium stainless valve is all you need for 99% of all applications......
The LS7 C6 Vette engine uses titaniums valves....but they were trying to make a Hyd. Roller setup go to 7000 rpm......you are not doing that here.
Personally, if done right...a BBC should never even need to rev to 7000rpm......
Like I said before....unless you are in NHRA Comp Eliminator or Pro Stock.....save the titanium valves for the bench racers.

Jebby

 

427 hot rod in post 6. his avatar is in the high 8's. and he drives it on the street too. if he doesn't run TI valves in his bbc, you don't need em in yours... PAC beehive springs are a very good way to lighten up the valve train. boat guys won't use them though. they live in fear of valve spring breakage and have to have double springs. but they spend MUCH more than 13 seconds at full throttle and rpm's

 

That's like saying well Cleetus's C5 Leroy doesn't have a body and runs 7's, so you don't need a body if he don't. He also drives it on the street.

I don't think he should spend $1280 on lighter valves either but just when peeps compare things like that it bugs me.

I bet those boat guys have TI valves.

 

I bet you are wrong.

And a twin turbo 555 that is street driven and runs flat out for minutes at 200 mph is a pretty good test bed for stainless valves....if Jim doesn’t use them, trust me, you don’t need them.....but I already said that earlier in the thread.

Jebby

 

...if Cleetus with his twin turbo Leroy blah blah blah LOL

As they say, there are many ways to skin a cat. 8 second cars these days are the norm. To be clear I got nothing against the guy you keep bringing up or his car n w/e, no clue who he is or anything bout him.

 

I guess I'll just stay the **** out of this thread.......you seem to know every goddamn thing so have at it......

Jebby

 

I'll be the first to tell you that I don't, in fact my sig on another board is "I know as much as I can learn and try to keep an open mind to anything!". My point again is there are many ways to accomplish the same thing(8's).

My first post was not to tell the OP to use Ti valves, I provided alternatives. It's well noted that lighter valves & other valve train parts are preferred with many builders.

 

Using smaller stem valves, titanium is big $ going after small returns. Just spring a decent stainless valve right and motor on.

 

There is another benefit to having a smaller stem than weight

 

Wow,,,,fun thread here!

Not a thing wrong with titanium if you need it and have money to spend. Lightening the valvetrain is always good and as mentioned...there are steel retainers that are pretty light these days...and yes smaller stems save weight and help airflow. I've been involved with some Spintron testing where there was extreme attention paid to valvetrain weight and cam dynamics and it's absolutely amazing how light spring pressure can be with EVERYTHING perfect. And that helps life of parts.

I spin the heck out of my big block and it's a prime candidate for titanium and some Inconel exhaust valves....but so far what I have is living fine. The weight of the valves etc are pretty hefty. Small blocks have an advantage there.

Yes, there are a gazillion ways to skin a cat...and my car is a long way from scienced out...sorry it bores you...but I like it. As I tell people all the time..it doesn't do anything great...but it does a lot of stuff well enough to have fun.

Certainly no reason to copy something JUST because they did it..but if it works and is what you're trying to do..it makes sense to learn from it. It's one thing to have an academic discussion about the benefit/detriment of something...but I looked at it as specific build and it just didn't seem like titanium was the best use of his $$$...at least to me from the little bit he told us.. But I'll admit...we never did hear the intended usage or what RPM range.

JIM

 

isnt titanium more brittle? Wondering if the sheer size of the valve vs the stem at a point may have more risk snapping the head off say if the guides were sloppy or valve float? Just asking.

Sometimes with strength comes weight