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Will be looking for a C3 very soon (retiring) and need to know the best process for inspecting the condition of the bird cage. Is it safe to assume that the most accessible area is behind the kick panels?
That’s if the owner/dealer will allow the panels to be removed.
Are there any other areas on a C3 that need inspection (most common areas for fiberglass stress cracks) etc. etc.?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Will be looking for a C3 very soon (retiring) and need to know the best process for inspecting the condition of the bird cage. Is it safe to assume that the most accessible area is behind the kick panels?
That’s if the owner/dealer will allow the panels to be removed.
Are there any other areas on a C3 that need inspection (most common areas for fiberglass stress cracks) etc. etc.?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Flashlight aimed at the space where the top and side windshield trim meets the glass. You can just see a portion of the metal frame behind the glass -- bad rust would be visible. Also the frame area surrounding the VIN tag on the driver's windshield post. Then behind the interior side panels in front of each door (you may need to remove the sill plates in order to remove these panels). Also check the frame kick-up and corner just in front of the rear wheels.
Last edited by barkingrats; May 11, 2021 at 07:51 PM.
I read somewhere that if they won’t let you take off the kick panels that you should lay a clean towel on the floor next to the kick panels and then slam the doors several times hard. Bad rust will cause little bits of rust to fall on the towel.
Not sure— may be an old wives tale??
Will be looking for a C3 very soon (retiring) and need to know the best process for inspecting the condition of the bird cage. Is it safe to assume that the most accessible area is behind the kick panels?
That’s if the owner/dealer will allow the panels to be removed.
Are there any other areas on a C3 that need inspection (most common areas for fiberglass stress cracks) etc. etc.?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Ask about the history of the car, who owned it, how long, where did it reside over its lifetime. Weather/Climate plays a huge roll in how long these cars last.
Has "any" work been done on the car, fiberglass and all.
As was said, look all the way around the windshield and on both sides of the wiper bay area down as far as possible.
Fire wall right and left side bolt #1
Kick panels bolt #2
Use a hi grade flash light and inspection mirror to look in and under the car.
Check the frame rail under the door(s) all the way to the back.
Remove rear wheels and check the rear portion of the frame Bolt #3 on both sides.
Pull back the carpet in the rear area and look at bolt #4 on both sides
Look up underneath in the rear at the cross member area. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...bird-cage.html https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-is-this.html
Don't throw your money away thinking you can "fix" some rust issues, it's more involved and costly than you think. The money adds up quickly.
C3's are nice but damn expensive to redo.
I recently bought a 70 LT1 as my first c3. The seller's photos showed a freshly painted frame with no corrosion, and the no.2 mounts behind the kick panels were nearly pristine, Vin tag area also pristine, I assumed car is rust free from this.
After two months of ownership, I found upper windshield frame has been patched. Left rear frame at the kickup patched poorly and bondoed. Right rear frame at the kickup I could poke a screw driver through freshly painted rust.
Opened up the access plates to the no.3 mounts and yup, birdcage rusted through.
Also look at seat belt mounting reinforcement plates, my shoulder harness plates were rusted to pieces. To replace those plates is a major job.
No.4 mounting plates also show signs catastrophic corrosion, in which I will have to replace.
So lesson learned, just because frame appears nice, and kick panel area looks good does not mean all is good.
Hey C3USA#1: welcome!! A new adventure awaits. Lots of C3s out there, good ones, so take some time and when you find the right one snap it up and begin having fun.
This video is pretty good. You'll get all sorts of good advice from forum members here - a great group and very helpful. Keep us informed. If you find something you want to have us help evaluate, share lots of pics and information. Best of luck in your search! Paul
I read somewhere that if they won’t let you take off the kick panels that you should lay a clean towel on the floor next to the kick panels and then slam the doors several times hard. Bad rust will cause little bits of rust to fall on the towel.
Not sure— may be an old wives tale??
Hi wwiiavfan, first thing that came to mind when I read your post was 'of course I would take the panels off for the interested person. And I would have lots of pictures available'.
The next thing that came to mind is 'if someone came to look at my C3 and started to slam the doors hard, they would politely be asked to leave'.
Feel free to take photos of cars you are considering, and post them here for a bunch of opinions (some of them useful!). Remove the kickpanels, and look for rust at the #2 body mounts, on the VIN tag, and at the upturn of the frame in front of the rear wheels. It can hide behind the dash, too, which is easier to see with a later C3.
And go ahead and buy this license plate now, to match your name. The flat printed one is a disappointment, pictured below is the "embossed" version (like a real license plate), but who knows these days with Amazon sellers.
Last edited by Bikespace; May 12, 2021 at 04:44 AM.
I recently bought a 70 LT1 as my first c3. The seller's photos showed a freshly painted frame with no corrosion, and the no.2 mounts behind the kick panels were nearly pristine, Vin tag area also pristine, I assumed car is rust free from this.
After two months of ownership, I found upper windshield frame has been patched. Left rear frame at the kickup patched poorly and bondoed. Right rear frame at the kickup I could poke a screw driver through freshly painted rust.
Opened up the access plates to the no.3 mounts and yup, birdcage rusted through.
Also look at seat belt mounting reinforcement plates, my shoulder harness plates were rusted to pieces. To replace those plates is a major job.
No.4 mounting plates also show signs catastrophic corrosion, in which I will have to replace.
So lesson learned, just because frame appears nice, and kick panel area looks good does not mean all is good.
This is horrible and thank you for sharing the reality of your experience. As I recall, you did your homework and tried to follow all the guidance. However, I believe yours was purchased from a forum member and you did not see it in person first or have a knowledgeable person inspect it for you. This brings to mind a couple of important points:
Just because it is on the forum, doesn’t mean you should let your guard down. Trust, but verify.
Pictures are great and necessary, but an in person inspection is critical.
If you lack experience with the model/year, hire someone who is and knows what to look for.
There is no such thing as a “killer deal” I believe the price you paid seemed amazing for an LT1. Turns out you may have gotten what you paid for (not a dig at you, but a lesson for others).
Don't be fooled by “lipstick on a pig”. These cars rust and it is easier to hide than many other steel bodied cars.
I feel bad for Wolf, but admire him for posting his experience in an attempt to help others.
Thanks all! I’m excited to begin a new chapter of life and to enjoy a long awaited Corvette. Life has been good but it’s time to “lose myself” in a fun hobby and hope to join a local car club etc. I will definitely ask a lot of questions. You all are great.
If the owner won't let you take out two screws and remove the kick panels, I think he might have something to hide. There's absolutely no harm done, it's a two minute job, and he shouldn't object.
If he does, I think I'd look for another car.
If the owner won't let you take out two screws and remove the kick panels, I think he might have something to hide. There's absolutely no harm done, it's a two minute job, and he shouldn't object.
If he does, I think I'd look for another car.
I agree. I assume all C3 year models with t-tops would have the same areas for potential rust?
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Originally Posted by wwiiavfan
I read somewhere that if they won’t let you take off the kick panels that you should lay a clean towel on the floor next to the kick panels and then slam the doors several times hard. Bad rust will cause little bits of rust to fall on the towel.
Not sure— may be an old wives tale??
Nope....not an old wives tale. Definitely rains rust when you do this if the BC is rusty and has not been coated (at least mine did).
Last edited by Redvette2; May 13, 2021 at 11:47 AM.
If the owner won't let you take out two screws and remove the kick panels, I think he might have something to hide. There's absolutely no harm done, it's a two minute job, and he shouldn't object.
If he does, I think I'd look for another car.
Agreed, believe you also have to take off the sill plates to get the kick panels off.
Will be looking for a C3 very soon (retiring) and need to know the best process for inspecting the condition of the bird cage. Is it safe to assume that the most accessible area is behind the kick panels?
That’s if the owner/dealer will allow the panels to be removed.
Are there any other areas on a C3 that need inspection (most common areas for fiberglass stress cracks) etc. etc.?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
The best advice I can offer up is to try & find someone uniquely qualified to inspect the car, stem to stern. Rust can exist in many different locations throughout the frame, for a variety of reasons. Also, electrical systems, brake systems, suspension, trailing arms, etc, are all areas prone to unique problems that would be best assessed by an expert. I had my '72 inspected as described coming up on 20 years ago. Best money I ever spent, with no surprises. Best of luck.
Last edited by seacliffe301; May 13, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
IF it doesn't have speakers in the kick panel area you can look through the little holes with a flashlight and see if there is green chromate primer in there or whether it is rusted.
Look between the rocker panel and frame with a flashlight and should see more green primer.
IF it doesn't have speakers in the kick panel area you can look through the little holes with a flashlight and see if there is green chromate primer in there or whether it is rusted.
Look between the rocker panel and frame with a flashlight and should see more green primer.
The green primer wasn't universally used; black was also used. This was an NCRS forum discussion and data-gathering topic a few months back. My point being that if you see black, it doesn't mean it's not factory.
Pour some water on the windshield corners, where the front fenders meet it. Then open the doors and watch for drops of water from the center of the foot wells. If you see any water drops, there is rust in the windshield birdcage corners.
if that section of the corners the fender/ windshield area is filled with some from of caulking, it's a very good sign of rust.
Bird Cage Inspection
